wr 450 oil change

i bought a 2007 wr 450 and when i changed the oil i thought there was only 1 oil drain bolt, so i thought i drained all the oil and changed the filter, refilled it with 1.27 quarts and the dipstick read it was full. i went for a ride and i was getting oil into my air box through the blowby hose. i looked in the manual and read about both drain bolts 1 for the case and 1 for the oil bottle so when i drained it again there was 2.3 quarts of oil in the bike. how do you suppose the bike held all of that oil and the dipstick showed it just being full, does anyone know how big the oil bottle is or has anybody else maid the same mistake.

With that much oil it should of come out the dipstick hole if you started it ,ran it for 90 sec, wait 20 secs,then checked it

The engine has a maximum capacity of very little more than 1.2 liters TOTAL (as in after being built). Understand that it's a dry sump lube system, and that means that the oil supply is stored in one volume (built into the front of the crankcases in this case) and pumped into the lube system under pressure. As it drains by gravity back to the crankcase sump, it gets picked up by a faster pump and returned to the storage volume. Since the return pump is faster, it sucks the sump "dry" as it catches up. There does remain a certain oil level below which oil is not picked up, but it's very low.

Since this particular bike has you refill the oil by pouring it into the crankcase, it has to be pumped from there to the "tank" once operation begins. When too much oil is put into the system, it will be pumped to thew tank in a normal manner until there is no more room in the tank for the excess. After that, oil returned to the tank is forced out the top of the tank through the pressure balance line that runs from the tank section to the crankcase, and the crankcase oil level stays higher than it's supposed to.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5221903#post5221903

If you ran the bike, and drained only the right side, then refilled it, it probably had almost double the normal oil amount in it. Another thing you have to remember is to pop the dipstick out when draining the left side (the "tank"). Otherwise, is drains very slowly. It would not come out the dipstick hole on one of these, because the oil level in the tank can't really be raised much beyond the high mark before it starts the forced back-transfer I described.

hello grayracer. I once overfilled the oil on my 07 wr450. The cylinder head/valves seemed quiter with the engine running. Im just wondering if the valve lobes/cams are under lubed. My understanding is that the yzf r6/r1's dont need as much valve adjustment. I believe there valves are titanium as well. I've wondered why the wr450f valves need so much adjustment relative to the yzf r1/r6. I was thinking its because the valve lobes are not hardened? I've asked this question before but got nowhere.

Thanks.

Just to verify: I just picked up an '06 and want to verify the locations for draining.

Oil drain plug locations

1) Dip Stick

2) Oil Fill Cap

3) Drain Plug at bottom of frame tank

4) Small Plug at oil filter cover

5) Large plug in back of the crank case

6) Small Plug just behind shifter

Is this correct? Any more plugs?? :p

Thanks

DrainPlugs.jpg

Just to verify: I just picked up an '06 and want to verify the locations for draining.

Oil drain plug locations

1) Dip Stick

2) Oil Fill Cap

3) Drain Plug at bottom of frame tank

4) Small Plug at oil filter cover

5) Large plug in back of the crank case

6) Small Plug just behind shifter

Is this correct? Any more plugs?? :p

For practical purposes, you can disregard the plug at (6).

You can also ignore the parts of the procedure having to do with removing any oil lines, or the frame screen, except for maybe an annual screen inspection.

Also, don't use the bolt at the bottom of the cover as a drain. These two links explain why, and what can be done about it:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=575367

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

hello grayracer. I once overfilled the oil on my 07 wr450. The cylinder head/valves seemed quiter with the engine running. Im just wondering if the valve lobes/cams are under lubed. My understanding is that the yzf r6/r1's dont need as much valve adjustment. I believe there valves are titanium as well. I've wondered why the wr450f valves need so much adjustment relative to the yzf r1/r6. I was thinking its because the valve lobes are not hardened? I've asked this question before but got nowhere.

Thanks.

If the wear occurred between the cam and lifter, the clearance would increase, not decrease. Wear at the valve faces causes the clearances to close. Wear at the valve face and seat is affected by the spring pressure applied, and the number of times the valves open and close in a given distance, which in turn is affected by gear ratio. Your R1 is essentially 4 YZ250f's lashed together, and as such, has much lighter valve train components. Also, even thought the r1 revs very freely, I would bet the cruising rpm is much lower than on your WR.

Got it, Thanks Sir! :p

^^^ That video is not accurate for the 07/08 WR450's. Just get a manual its very straight foward.

just bought an 04 450. Are those videos good for my bike? I plan on using the manual the first time or two I'm just curious if that's about what I should expect once I go about changing the oil. Thanks

just bought an 04 450. Are those videos good for my bike? I plan on using the manual the first time or two I'm just curious if that's about what I should expect once I go about changing the oil. Thanks

The oil change on the video looks the same as on my -03 450 so go ahead, watch and learn.

thanks. haven't looked at this thread for a bit and just realized I put i the wrong year. I actually have an 03. anyday now it'll warm up enough for me to get out and change that oil......

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