08 YZ450F Steerring nut wrench

I just got back from the Yamaha dealership where they tried to charge me $75.00 for a steering nut wrench. My questions are this.

1. Do I need to worry about torquing that bolt back to what yamaha says in the manual?

and

2. For those of you who have bought the tool, would you say this tool is comparable and would work for the job? http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/poadststwr.html

Any help you can lend is much appreciated.

I do have the pit posse wrench and it works perfectly. I work at a yamaha dealership, have dealt with their wrench and i think the Pit posse one is just fine.

Well, I use this:

00945381000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

The nut only torques to 5 ft/lb (after snugging down some tighter than that and re-loosening). Just grab the ring nut so the plier jaws grip the edges of the slots and it works fine for me. Otherwise, you can probably find something much cheaper than the Yamaha tool at a used tool house.

I use a old spring spanner wrench, hammer and punch will work in a pinch though.

... hammer and punch will work in a pinch though.
They are never tight enough to need that.
Well, I use this:

00945381000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

The nut only torques to 5 ft/lb (after snugging down some tighter than that and re-loosening). Just grab the ring nut so the plier jaws grip the edges of the slots and it works fine for me.

Same here :p

Then, if you want to do something trick, drill a hole in it and file out a 3/8" square in the shank.

I like that. Any thoughts on how far from the center of the steerer tube that should be to allow the torque reading to be accurate?

I like that. Any thoughts on how far from the center of the steerer tube that should be to allow the torque reading to be accurate?
Within 3" should be good. If you connect the torque wrench at right angles as shown in the manual, the length is only marginally significant.

I put on a glove and use my hand! I tighten it as tight as I can and it usually works perfectly!:p

Within 3" should be good. If you connect the torque wrench at right angles as shown in the manual, the length is only marginally significant.

Thanks, I'll have it all apart in the coming weeks and give this a go. Suspension is off to DaveJ at Smart Performance for the works and I'll be greasing everything as we all know they don't come with adequate lubrication from the factory. It's amazing the things a guy can get done patiently waiting for 3' of snow to melt.

I made this out of a spanner wrench, used an old socket and welded it to the spanner wrench. Pretty cheap. :p

0210091322.jpg

Well, I use this:

00945381000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

I put on a glove and use my hand! I tighten it as tight as I can and it usually works perfectly!:p

I use a combo of the two....

Thanks for all the help on this. after reading the manual a little more in depth I have decided to enlist the help of my crescent wrench to get the job done. Now heres a little follow up question. I am re-greasing the head unit bearings due to water getting inside the head and comprimising the grease (which I should have done this from the get go since I bought the bike new and have read that factory grease does not quite do the job). Since I dont want any of the old grease to go back into the head unit, my next question is this, Should I just go out and buy new bearings or is there a recomended solution to soak these in so that I can get all the old grease out so I can put the new on? I have pleanty of brake contact cleaner but just not sure if that will do the job. any ips or tricks are appreciated. Thanks.

The nearest thing you can get to real shop solvent in the public marketplace is Mineral Spirits, available in hardware and paint stores.

Be sure you pack grease well into the bearing assembly. An inexpensive bearing packer from an auto parts house is a good investment.

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