my 'new' 99 yz400f

I ordered pivot works linkage and swing arm bushing, should be here Tuesday. Do they come with new races? I think Ill just leave everything as it is until I get the kit to see what I am working with.

I also bought some Maxima water proof grease. Probably going to change the front wheel bearings (bike came with a brand new kit) and put the front end back together tonight. I will probably check the valves too, depending on how late it gets (I typically work on my bike from 11pm-3am on friday and saturday nights, seems to be the only time I have to myself)

The next adventure after everything is back together is changing the oil, coolant, and brake fluid.

Hopefully everything goes smoothly for NEMX on the 8th

Dude welcome to the world of the yz400. I have 2 of them one is more of a quick parts bike with hopes of a re build and one is my xc and enduro bike. It has been great! Very tough bike and in my price range. I cant afford a new bike either so I have to work on my own and make due with what I have. With a little tlc you should be very pleased congrats

Yeah that's what I was affraid of from the looks of the bike. The previous owner told you he took care of it, but the bearings tell a different story. I guess everyone has a different way of thinking they "took care of it" :lol:

Well it's good to see that you are taking care of it now by diving right in and checking things out. You are right about the bearings never being touched in 10 years! It looks like he used to park the bike in water :worthy:

I feel your pain when I see those rusty bearings (makes you wonder what else the previous owner let go, hopefully you don't run into anymore problems:banghead: ). I've had cut the link out of a frame with an angle grinder because the bolt was chemically welded inside the bearing by rust.

Once you get your bearing kit you will need to press the old bearings out and new ones in. If you don't have the tool, check this out: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433397

I've used a similar setup with good results. With the right combination of sockets, you can use it to press out bearings too:thumbsup: .

nice bike man, im sure u wil take care of it better.

can somone post a link on how changing the brake fluid? plz

great link on how to press bearings, i think my quad never got them changed in 8 years. going to do it when it warms up alittle.

I feel your pain when I see those rusty bearings (makes you wonder what else the previous owner let go, hopefully you don't run into anymore problems:banghead: ). I've had cut the link out of a frame with an angle grinder because the bolt was chemically welded inside the bearing by rust.

Once you get your bearing kit you will need to press the old bearings out and new ones in. If you don't have the tool, check this out: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433397

I've used a similar setup with good results. With the right combination of sockets, you can use it to press out bearings too:thumbsup: .

I knew about the threaded rod press deal, but the socket is a great idea, thanks!

nice bike man, im sure u wil take care of it better.

can somone post a link on how changing the brake fluid? plz

great link on how to press bearings, i think my quad never got them changed in 8 years. going to do it when it warms up alittle.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263172, its pretty easy, I would search and read a few other threads. its basically the same as doing it on a car...

Id look at the engine a little too i believe. Its probably due for a timing chain, and a leakdown test couldnt hurt either. It'll be a great bike once you get her going.

I was told that the timing chain was done along with the forks recently. That is what I meant be being taken care of. I should have been more specific. lol. I still plan on checking the valves. Is there a visible way to tell if the timing chain is due?

Not without taking it apart. Once you get it out, any stiff or kinked links are a give away. "Too much" (a subjective term) lateral flex is a bad sign, too. Wind the chain all the way around one of the cam sprockets and hold the two runs together. If you can pull the chain out away from the sprocket on the other side more than a millimeter, it's worn, and you should replace it.

I just emailed the guy I bought it from basically saying if you lied to me please tell me so I can be certain to do anything (ie, the timing chain) he says he still has the old chain. I really cant afford to do something liek that now. Area 51 is like $400 and I gotta pay the membership fee next weekend. Plus the 150 for the swingarm bushings.

Hopefully the valves check out.

Gray, I ordered the choke assembly, but I have no idea how I am going to get it off of the carb, I took the tps but there is still no was to get a socket to it. I am thinking ill have to cut the knob off, but then I dont know how I will snug up the new one.

... I dont know how I will snug up the new one.
With a box end wrench, normally.

Oil change 'day'... Got everything apart, gonna do the ball bearing trick tomorrow and get her back together for this weekend. I wanted to put a half quart of tranny fluid in it during the warm up laps around the house to let the detergents do some scrubbing, but I forgot. I was thinking this might cause some problems with the clutch, but then again it would only be in there for 15 minutes before being drained and replaced. Any ideas?

I took out the oil strainer and found some sludge and a few shavings nothing compared to what was on the filter:

007fht.jpg

Is that bad, average, or indifferent? As we can all tell this bike wasnt cared for as much as I hoped it was.

I also bought castrol GTX 10w30. shit, I gotta return it. it says energy conserving, I swear I must have looked at 5 different types of oil while in autozone, specifically looking for non EC oils. Idk how this happened. I might return it and go to walmart to get the rotella.

I cant justify spending $10 a quart, when I am going to be changing it weekly/biweekly

Dude I would change the oil and sell it!

Cmon dont say that! I just spent $350 on the Area 51 membership and $200 plus on parts.

My '99 is almost done and even though it wasn't as bad as what you've got, I had my own problems as we all do and they all got solved. Take a few hours and read through the tech articles and print what you need. There's gold in those threads. I use Amsoil MC 20-50 in all my bikes and I put in a stainless mesh oil filter. I used All Balls kits for every bearing on the bike (wheels, swingarm, links, head). Gray helped me to throw my Clymer manual in the trash and heed the Yami shop manual. I would definitely recommend flushing the brake fluid before you run it. Good luck.

Before I forget, get some heat reflective padding for the back of that number plate or you're going to melt your bottom. I got some scraps from my local welding supply.

Is that bad, average, or indifferent?

Its not good, but not the worst I've ever seen. Looks like the filter is crushed allittle probably from being clogged so the oil pump pressure crushes it.

Everybody has their favorite brand of oil. As long as you change oil frequently, the shell rotella 15w40 is fine in my opinion, a lot of people use it and its cheap-which encourages frequent oil changes for me at least. I use it in my bike, lawn mower and snow blower:thumbsup: .

I swear I must have looked at 5 different types of oil while in autozone

At autozone I always buy Mobil 1 Racing 4T full synthetic 10w-40, I think it's the best oil they sell for a YZF

Keep up the good work

I returned the 2 quarts I got (like 8.40) and bought a whole gallon of shell for 10.50 at walmart.

Sunday will be the first official ride. I hope it doesnt blow up. I have ridden it around the house twice for like 10 mintues at a time, and it was fine then. I actually busted the right radiator guard/panel thing yesterday. It got stuck on a big pricker bush thing. so far the sticker is holding it on. Im gonna put some zip ties on it tonight.

List of things done:

-new air filter (not on yet)

-new swingarm and linkage bearings

-new front wheel bearings

-head tube bearings re-greased

-torqued and loc-tit'ed everything

-tonight I gotta do the ball bearing trick

At autozone I always buy Mobil 1 Racing 4T full synthetic 10w-40, I think it's the best oil they sell for a YZF

Keep up the good work

I run the same oil in my 426 :)

Honestly dude, and I'm not trying to sound negative, but this thing is gonna nickel and dime you to death. Part it out on ebay, you might be able to get a decent amount for the parts. If the engine alone is running you might be able to get a grand for it-almost what you paid for the bike. Take that cash, and go get a newer bike. YZ450's (03-05s) can be had for around 2 grand.

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