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Jonesy920

GPR has new stabilizer in prototype

26 posts in this topic

Just made a call to GPR to order my stabilizer and Randy told me they have a proto-type stabilizer that is part of the bar clamp/mount. So no bulky box on top, and you can use a normal fatbar pad. It will be the same price of the current pro kit. If you have a pro kit they will upgrade for about $150 (exact price to be determined). I think I will wait and see if it works and then drop the dough.

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Hey Jonesy

I was just doin some research into steering dampners this wekend. I found 4 of them

1. Scotts

2. GPR

3. RTT Motorsports

4. W.E.R. Products

I did some searches on TT and found some interesting stuff.

Some dont like the WER. It seeams that once it is rebuilt, which seems to be needed every year, That it is really difficult to get it working right again. Something about getting the air bled out right.

The RTT seemed to work ok. But if you want to switch it to another bike you have to send it back to upgrade it to another tripple clamp at a cost. Plus to me those 2 hoses look a little succeptible to crash damage. Seems to me that they should be braided stainless steel lines.

I was really considering the GPR. The only thing that is turning me away is that I hear that it Dampens the opposite way that the Scotts does. Were the Scotts dampens when turned away from center the GPR dampens when you turn back to center. The Scotts seems to be the correct way to me. That is what others say as well. But I have heard good reviews on the GPR so I dont know. OFFROAD.com did a test on a crf450 and they seemed to like the GPR.

Im still undecided between the Scotts and the GPR. Right now the SCotts is getting the nod. But I am still undecided.

I know that the SCotts would work great. But the thought of saving $250 on the GPR looks realy apealing to me.

Anyone else have any input on these 4 units?

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YZMAN,

I have just mounted a GPR stabilizer on my WR.

It dampens for about 15 or 20% when moving the

bars left or right. If you continue to turn the bars (past 15 or20%) it releases the dampning. When returning the bars it starts dampning about where it left off. I have riden a EXC400 that was equipped with a Scott's unit, but never examined it in this detail. I purchased the GPR because of the good reviews and I liked the large adjustment knob. I haven't got a chance to really test the unit, (15 degrees and snow) but am sure it will perform as good as the Scotts.

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My Scotts damper has been on since 99. Never done anything to it. Still works great and has saved my a$$ more times than i will ever admit. I adjust the low speed on the fly for different conditions. Turn it up for the ride through the desert and adjust it down after reaching the tight single track in the mountains. The cool thing thing is that the high speed damping always stays the same when adjusting the low speed setting. It's the high speed setting that save's you. It keeps the bars from being ripped out of your hands when hittng something unexpected. The real plus side is that I never get arm pump.

I can't tell you how many times I have tried to save money by buying something cheaper, only later having to go out and buy the better product later. We all are guilty of doing this one time or another. From you guys that have ridden with me you know I ride my WR hard. Just have to support a product that lasts and works so well. That's my $.02.

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From what I understand RTT has a lawsuit against them for patent infringement, so I wouldn't buy one. Gpr vs. Scott's is a personal choice, Like Blue vs. Red. I went with the GPR because they will rebuild it for FREE every year. Not that it needs it. My buddy just dropped $100 on a Scott's rebuild. I don't know anything about WER but the lack of adjustability ruled it out. I'm sure you will be happy with either one.

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Scotts is the only damper on market with a high speed valve. It has two knobs on it. And the only one with sweep adjustment. Sweep adjustment can be set so that when you turn real sharp the damper lets go. Say for a enduro guy who needs a stiff damper on the low speed but still has to make very sharp turns. You can set it so when you turn the bars so far "the sweep"the damper will stop working, after a set amount of sweep. Very cool stuff!!

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I was just readin the scotts manual off there web site. That sweep adjustment is cool. Im thinking that Im going to have to get the scotts.

Now the only question is do I get it with Pro tapers. Or use a conventional bar and "bow the crossbar to clear the dampner. They show that Renthal makes a special bar with a bowed crossbar to clear. That way you can run a pad and avoid having the word "Scott" tattoed across your chess.

Do the kits come with the upper tripple clamp or just a solid one piece top bar clamp to mount the dampner on.

Now if I can just sell my kids 2000 jr50 I'll have money for the dampner. Hey that reminds me. I gotta buy him a new helmet. Dang it.

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You don't normally have to bow the crossbar if you mount the damper backwards, especially w/ taller bars. Then you can run a pad and still access the controls.

Also, "rebuilding" a Scott's damper is about a ten minute job that is well w/in the abilities of most riders IMO. If you can, for example, lube your linkage you should be able to replace the seals and oil in a Scott's. Bleeding isn't that hard at all, especially if you have a small hypodermic or small squeeze bottle, otherwise you end up making more of a mess. I just use fork oil in mine.

Two seals (if needed) and new oil is all that constitutes a "rebuild." Thing only has one moving part...

I believe the $600 kit comes w/ top clamp, bar clamp, Pro Tapers, damper and post.

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hick,

When you run the damper backwards do you have to remove the arm and mount it backwards or do you mount the post on the front?

Sorry for the dumb question but I'm leaning towards buying the one to use with the conventional bars. ie. Do I need to buy the arm puller too? How about the bullet tool?

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That's not a dumb question, I should have been more explicit.

Yes you pull the arm off, rotate it 180°, reinstall and then just mount the damper 180° from normal. Since the two mounting holes are exactly in the center everything will still line up. Now the skinny portion of the damper is under the cross bar. If you trim some material from the center of your bar pad it will reinstall in a snap, especially after it sort of shapes itself to the contours of the damper.

The only potential drawback is that w/ the Damper in this position the body is over the pin. So if the pin "walks" up out of the tower it can start wearing a groove in the bottom of the damper. Just something you may want to keep an eye on if you try this.

Also, I've done this to two dampers and did not need their special puller to remove the arm, maybe I was just lucky, but I was able to carefully "rock" the arm off the center pin. Using blue loctite on the main nut is a good idea when reassembling IMO.

I do have the bullet tool, but I've also replaced the seals w/out it. The bullet tool just makes it impossible to mar the seal's surface, which I did do on one occasion. Not a big deal, but I thought the bullet thing would be a good buy if it saved me another goof-up like that.

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I used to spend a lot of boring weekdays in LA, so on occasion I drove up to Scotts facility and had a chat. Here are a few things I learned about dampers.

Someone wrote Scotts hi speed dampening is always the same when you adjust the low speed, not true. The low speed setting affects the high speed. The more dampening on low speed, the less on high speed and vice versa (internally something changes) so if you crank up the low when the going gets fast, you lose some of the high. Why is the GPR unit cheaper?? It has a lot fewer internal parts and machining. Scotts has high and low speed, GPR one speed. Scotts has adjustable sweep control, GPR fixed. Scotts offroad models dampen away from center only (this is supposed to lessen armpump), GPR dampens both ways. Scotts has 20 or 30 clicks af adjustment on the low speed, GPR has 6. There are a lot of springs and check balls inside the scotts that are not in the GPR. GPR comes with a great big knob, Scotts charges extra for the big Knob. GPR will rebuild and update their damper for free (uses 10 wt fork oil), Scotts charges for this service (uses 2.5 wt fork oil). They are both very high quality units that accomplish the same thing in very different ways.

I have ridden with both and can not really tell any difference. I have the Scotts on now. I run it two full turns out (about 20 clicks). It feels like there is nothing there, until I hit the rocks or sand. I rode without it a few weeks ago and was shocked at how squirrly the bike was in the rocky sand washes here in AZ. The same washes are like freeways with it back on the bike.

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Hey yzman400, I have run a scotts and a GPR and am now useing the RTT. The scotts is a very good dampner it works well. The GPR on the other hand i did not like. If you run it tight enough so that it works it will pull you to the side you are turnig because it is not free back to center like the scotts and rtt. As far as the 2 lines go on the rtt i was worried about them to but they are actually not as exposed as you would think, I havn't had any problems with them. And the best thing about the rtt is it is so easy to ajust while rideing. If you wan't to shut it off you can and if you want it all the way on just flip the thumb switch. And as far as haveing to change it for differen't bikes, just be smart and stay on a yamaha :)

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I was at the WORCS race last weekend, the prototype is no longer a prototype. It is in full production and very cool.

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