07-09 WR450F Suspension Settings w/ NO Revalve or Spring work....

I know its going to be hard for many of you not to give

me the "you need suspension work done", but thats what

Im asking for. Im aware that suspension work would be

the ultimate answer, but I dont have the money for that

right now.

So, I would like some input from the others on here who

are, or have, ran the stock suspension for trail use.

I am about 220 lbs, with gear, and ride mostly single

track trails.

So what suspension settings are you running, or have you ran?

Just looking for some weight to setting examples to help give

me some ideas.

I cant be the only one who buys a WRF and runs the stock

suspension.

Thanks.:lol:

I cant be the only one who buys a WRF and runs the stock suspension.

no your not...but suspension is like a lady....what i like isnt always going to be what you like! if i was you, i would ride it and play with the clickers as you go making adjustments as need be.

keep a small flat head screw driver in your boot for quick and easy access :lol:

I've run the stock suspension for 1200 miles.

For tight trails it works well. In medium speed trails it works OK but the fork rides too low in the stroke for my liking. On fast trails and jumping it isn't the good at all. I bottom the front quite frequently landing from small table tops (think 25ft-40ft)

My biggest complaint is the fork. When its new it'll give you the impression its fine (rides higher in the stroke, better bottoming resistance) but once the fork breaks in it goes to mush quick. I've got the compression clickers set all the way hard and the rebound set 2 clicks from all the way fast and while it helped a little, it still isn't as responsive as I'd like. Keep in mind the stock springs are for a 170-180 lb rider so that probably has alot to do with it. The stock rear settings are really good for trail riding and mild track work assuming you've set the sag correctly.

I'm getting .48 (.46 stock) fork springs and I'll fanangle with the fork oil height to get it where I want. Should be good enough for the kind of riding I do. In the rear I'm getting a 5.8 rear spring just for the sake of balancing everything out.

At the miniumum you should think of getting springs. Seriously.

I ran mine as a dual sport for about a year with the stock suspension . It would not have been as bad if I would have at least changed the springs " thats only 200 bucks" But I didn't I just ran it with all the clickers in all the way . and it still was very soggy . it's not so bad in the rear . but with a too soft springs in the front it had a tendency to nose dive . so I stayed toward the back . it sucked................................................

With the stock springs, rider weight of 220, and sag set correctly, you will probably not need to add any compression to the shock. You will most likely want + 3 or more clicks of rebound damping though, because your spring preload will be pretty high. On the front, you will need +2 or 3 compression and rebound.

You probably know this, but the proper way to set up your suspension settings is to bleed the air from your forks while extended, and set everything to factory spec as listed in the owner's manual. Then ride it on a typical trail paying attention to how the bike is reacting, change a couple of click one way or the other, then ride again. Repeat as necessary. When you have found the sweet spot, write it down in the back of your manual. I usually also have it on a clear coated 3x5 card in my tool bag for trail reference.

The $200 in springs are the first mod that a 220 lb. rider should do. With the right springs, the bike will actually feel more plush because you won't need to crank up so much pre-load and compression damping. Your forearms and back with thank you for it at the end of the day.

Thanks for the info. Im sure at some point I will do some

suspension work, but just not right this moment. Im really

just starting to get used to the bike anyway.

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