Ricky stator upgrade?

Do I need a stator upgrade if I am going to swap out my stock headlight bulb and use 35watt HID light bulb w/ballester on my WR450? Any feedback would be great... Thanks fellas:ride:

Do I need a stator upgrade if I am going to swap out my stock headlight bulb and use 35watt HID light bulb w/ballester on my WR450? Any feedback would be great... Thanks fellas:ride:

fairy certain HID requires DC power and our WR stock pumps out AC through the headlight plug

stator mod....check w/ some one like BAJA DESIGNS.

Do I need a stator upgrade if I am going to swap out my stock headlight bulb and use 35watt HID light bulb w/ballester on my WR450? Any feedback would be great... Thanks fellas:ride:

The WR450F stator will need to be modified and a new rectiifer/regulator will be need also to convert it to DC. Then you can run your 35watt HID light from the battery. If you need to stator mod instructions for the WR450F just pm me for instructions. Just a little help from BD :lol:

Also, the HID uses about 85 watts on startup. It also needs a steady flow of current so the stator mod and convert of the lighting from AC to DC is a must.

Thanks William.. Going about doing this, where is the best way to find information to process this?

You will need to float the ground ala the BD instructions. You will need the correct insulator for the stator wires you join, shrink wrap is not adequate. You will also need the BD Rect/Reg. Finally, to run the ligh, you will need to wire directly to the battery, ideally using a relay.

You will need to float the ground ala the BD instructions. You will need the correct insulator for the stator wires you join, shrink wrap is not adequate. You will also need the BD Rect/Reg. Finally, to run the ligh, you will need to wire directly to the battery, ideally using a relay.

I am now working on this :worthy: . I have the HID all set up, and just waiting for my BD Rect; I ordered today. You say "ideally using a relay." What does that do? It powers on good with out, and even hi/lo. Is the relay safer, and where can I get one (flasher relay?)?

Where can I get the "correct insulator for the stator wires?"

Thank you

A relay switches the power for the light instead of making it go through an on/off switch. More durable. You will want a sealed, waterproof relay if you go this route. No, not a flasher relay.

Search online for Kevlar or Nomex insulation. Or call BD and ask them.

I'm getting a little closer to going HID myself. Can anyone tell me how good/bad the light output is on initial start up. I understand that it gets brighter the longer it stays on but what if your doing a lot of stops at night? Will I have to stand by after every stop so the light has a chance to brighten up? One more -Q, the HID is single filliment only right. So no way of having a Hi/Lo option on a WR? Is it so bright that a high beam is never needed anyway?

phynx, keep us updated on how yours comes out, S/T.

Can anyone tell me how good/bad the light output is on initial start up. I understand that it gets brighter the longer it stays on but what if your doing a lot of stops at night? Will I have to stand by after every stop so the light has a chance to brighten up? One more -Q, the HID is single filliment only right. So no way of having a Hi/Lo option on a WR? Is it so bright that a high beam is never needed anyway?

ST

If your only running one HID, you will be fine with floating the ground and installing a Baja Designs reg/rec. My son converted his stock headlight on is 08 WR to HID and it is pretty impressive especially for the price. (http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=788305&highlight=07+hid)

(BTW, My son just got the fuego setup from Baja designs (dual 4in HID 35 watts each) he is going to try this setup with the floated ground on the stock stator, if there is not enough power, he will upgrade.)

As for the first time you fire off the HID, it does take about 30 seconds to warm up and get bright but after that, you can turn it on and off there the "brighten up" time is maybe 5 seconds. But then again, you could leave the HID on with the motor off for a good bit of time and still be able to e start the bike.

The stock WR light bulb is dual filament but it only comes wired with the low beam working. IMHO the high beam on the 07+ WR is a joke.

As for HID, all of the 35 watt HID are single filament but you can buy a 50/55 watt dual filament setup. However, if you plan on converting the stock 07+ headlight, i would not go with anything over 35 watts of output as you might start to run into heat issues with the plastic lens.

If you have any other questions, PM my son and I am sure he can answer any other questions you might have.

I'm getting a little closer to going HID myself. Can anyone tell me how good/bad the light output is on initial start up. I understand that it gets brighter the longer it stays on but what if your doing a lot of stops at night? Will I have to stand by after every stop so the light has a chance to brighten up? One more -Q, the HID is single filliment only right. So no way of having a Hi/Lo option on a WR? Is it so bright that a high beam is never needed anyway?

phynx, keep us updated on how yours comes out, S/T.

I have never seen a true Hi/low HID bulb. All of the aftermarket H4 replacements use a solenoid to move the bulb to make it appear like two beams (change the focal point). If you think about it, die to the start up time, you would not get full brightness until warm up time was over. Kind of pointless. That is why, most auto setups have HID low beams, they never turn off, and halogen high beams.

I have the BD 8" race light on my WR for the night off road rides. It has a large knob on top that I can easily twist and change the attitude of the light from close up to long distance. For dual sporting, I run a standard H4 headlight. And then the rest of the time, I run the stocker. I have all these on quick change mounts so a swap takes barely a minute.

When the ground it floated, you have a comfortable 80 watts of available power. So dual HID's are not a problem though you might want to stager starts by half a minute to reduce the load.

When the ground it floated, you have a comfortable 80 watts of available power. So dual HID's are not a problem though you might want to stager starts by half a minute to reduce the load.

William

Have you (or do you know how to) test the raw output of the stator? I have heard claims of 130 watts when floating the ground.

It would be interesting to see a side by side comparison (picture) of the Trail Tech / Ricky Stator / Stock Stator along with really at idle outputs

Numbers I have here are 110, LOL.

Testing a stator is not something you or I can do. What is done is a varistor is attached to the stator and the stator excited by a flywheel. Temperature measurements are taken and the resistance is slowly increased in steps, each time allowing the temperature to stabilize. I do not know the specs but at a point, the temperature reaches a maximum safe temp for longevity. An volt and ammeter is then connected and the numbers recorded. What you can do is put an amp meter on the stator output on your bike. The stator always creates the most it can at the engine speed and see what it makes. Output voltage can vary from 10 VAC to 130 VAC.

Stator output is a factor of both the windings and flywheel magnets. Using a stator with more turns requires a thinner wire usually and there for makes more volts but less amps. Less turns with a thicker wire gives you less volts and more amps. But the total watts typically remain the same. This a a generalized statement and there are lots of variables that change these 'facts'.

Finally, whatever the wattage output is, it is AC. Depending on the regulator, that in DC can be between 90% and 45% of the AC wattage.

I have never seen a true Hi/low HID bulb. All of the aftermarket H4 replacements use a solenoid to move the bulb to make it appear like two beams (change the focal point).

There are actually true hi/low hid bulbs, usually called Bi-Xenon bulbs. Probably one of my next grand experiments (Hope I don't blow the bike up!) to light 'em both at once inside a Baja Designs standard light housing. Kind of pricey, but near the lower half of the web page below is an example. You do of course need a second ballast to power the extra beam in the bulb.

http://www.xenonrider.com/flyersale/bulbs_ballasts_wiring.shtml

Gotchya. No dual H4 version though. I'd heard of the bi-xenon's, never put 2+2 together.

I assume you would always keep the low beam lit and just toggle the high on and off.

Gotchya. No dual H4 version though. I'd heard of the bi-xenon's, never put 2+2 together.

I assume you would always keep the low beam lit and just toggle the high on and off.

Sorry, here is probably a better example. They are a little difficult to find as most people sell those kits that have an hid coupled with a halogen for the other beam or one of those telescoping type of bulbs. This one is the real deal......and for H4 applications. This is an auto kit so it comes with 4 ballasts for two bulbs. Note that each bulb has two black leads and two red leads for hooking up to two ballasts. I mostly ride off road so I like the idea of being able to run just one for tighter, low rpm riding and then being able to switch on the second for more open desert riding.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-SLIM-ballasts-BI-XENON-HID-KIT-H4-H13-9004-9007-Hi-Lo_W0QQitemZ120420126371QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c09994ea3&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1171%7C240%3A1318

LOL, and a honest appearing EBayer to boot! I wonder how big those ballasts are.......

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