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rgilbert248

gave it an oil change now it wont start!!!!

20 posts in this topic

hey guys just joined the old thumper talk here and i got a question for ya.. i just got a '07 450 on the coldest day of the year a few weeks ago and couldnt resist to ride it so i putted around the yard for 15 or so min. and brought it in the heated shop for an oil change. so i changed the oil and was loosening the bolt on the cylinder head to see if there was oil coming out at the same time my brother was starting it and there was oil coming out of it. and now i went to start it up a few days ago and it will barely even start.... anyone got any ideas????

Gilbert

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hey guys just joined the old thumper talk here and i got a question for ya.. i just got a '07 450 on the coldest day of the year a few weeks ago and couldnt resist to ride it so i putted around the yard for 15 or so min. and brought it in the heated shop for an oil change. so i changed the oil and was loosening the bolt on the cylinder head to see if there was oil coming out at the same time my brother was starting it and there was oil coming out of it. and now i went to start it up a few days ago and it will barely even start.... anyone got any ideas????

Gilbert

So it starts or it doesn't?... I'm confused.

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i kicked it over for ten minutes and got it running once since the oil change and then a few days later and it was backfiring a bunce and couldnt get it started after 15-20 min of kicking..

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i kicked it over for ten minutes and got it running once since the oil change and then a few days later and it was backfiring a bunce and couldnt get it started after 15-20 min of kicking..

Sounds like you fouled the plug. Replace it and try again.

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i took it out and cleaned it but i didn't replace it and it didnt make any difference, but yes it was very black... i thought that it running in colder weather would make it run lean???

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when changing the oil, you would not need to remove any bolt from the "head". i'm thinkin you mean the crank case and you are checking the oil overfill bolt (which is not really neccessary beacuse there is a dip stick right around the front of the motor.) oil should only be coming out of that bolt if you filled it too high. do you have a manual and did you put in the required amount with or without the oil filter? after you do that you should have started it and let it idle for 3 min and shut it off, then check the dipstick.

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when changing the oil, you would not need to remove any bolt from the "head".
You have not read your owner's manual. There is an oil pressure check bolt in the head that the manual recommends removing when restarting after an oil change. That's what he was talking about. I personally do this very seldom, since if it was OK when it was shut off, there's no reason to think there would not be oil pressure unless one fails to put oil in it (or put the filter in backwards if using Ready Racing 's fancy cover).

Ricky it right about the spark plug, BTW. Put a fresh one in.

And yes, cold weather makes the bike lean, and very hard to start. Temps below 40 are problematic. Below 30, it's nearly impossible with jetting for warmer weather. Store it in the heated shop for about 3 hours, then try it.

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ok well i will get a new plug and try it... so do you think that i may have messed up anything when i ran it in the cold weather. the bike had been dyno tuned when the previous owner put the pipe on and i was pretty amazed at how easy it would start before this problem occured.. and what oil are you guys running? i put a quart of 15/40 Case IH oil in mine since i live on a farm and have it in bulk...

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ok well i will get a new plug and try it... so do you think that i may have messed up anything when i ran it in the cold weather.

I don't think you can hurt it.... unless you start it without oil or something like that. People use YZF's for ice racing and they are fine in cold weather, just be sure to fully warm it up everytime you start it.... Its common to foul a plug if you don't completely warm them up.

and what oil are you guys running? i put a quart of 15/40 Case IH oil in mine since i live on a farm and have it in bulk...

15W40 is fine if you change it often. I use Shell Rotella and change it every ride. In cold weather, the 15W is a little thick and can make them hard to start. I can heat my enclosed trailer, so its not a big deal for me in cold weather.

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have you thought about using any of the lucas oil additives or stabilizers in it?

I don't use any kind of additives in the oil. I've never seen a need for them.

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have you thought about using any of the lucas oil additives or stabilizers in it?
I recommend not using any such additives, ever, particularly not the Lucas stuff.

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Some oil additives are incompatible with elements of the additive packages already in some oils. In many other cases, you are paying for additives that are already present, so it's a simple waste of money. Some oil additives contain metallic elements such as calcium which can become built up in the carbon on the piston crown and contribute to detonation.

In the particular case of Lucas "stabilizer", it has been shown to contribute to foaming.

If you use a good, complete oil to begin with, there isn't anything more you need to add, anyway.

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ok so since it was nice and warm out today i put that new plug in and with high hopes i kicked it over... and over and over... so i cracked the throttle maybe a 1/16 of a turn and it started backfiring and after 4 or 5 pops it started. then i took it out and it seamed to run pretty well.... anyone got the inside on this one?? this is my second four stroke and i know that you arent supposed to crack the throttle on them but its the only way it would start.. i use to have a 99 yz400f... then a 2- stroke and now back to the 4!!!

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this is my second four stroke and i know that you arent supposed to crack the throttle on them but its the only way it would start..
My '03 would never start any other way when it was cold. If it works consistently, don't worry about it.

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Here is one of the reasons you don't want to use Lucas oil additives...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

Precisely. Besides, lubrication, even on splash lubed gears, is accomplished only by the oil film actually between the parts. Dragging a fat blob of oil off the sump floor and flinging it around the engine or gearbox accomplishes nothing, even though it looks really impressive.

The foaming is a major issue, since air is not a particularly effective lubricant, and the foam critically weakens the oil film integrity. Also note the remark in the test regarding the increased tendency for oil to drain off of a part once it stops moving.

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ok so since it was nice and warm out today i put that new plug in and with high hopes i kicked it over... and over and over... so i cracked the throttle maybe a 1/16 of a turn and it started backfiring and after 4 or 5 pops it started. then i took it out and it seamed to run pretty well.... anyone got the inside on this one?? this is my second four stroke and i know that you arent supposed to crack the throttle on them but its the only way it would start.. i use to have a 99 yz400f... then a 2- stroke and now back to the 4!!!

On my 450 I have to give the throttle a full twist then release before I kick it. If it is pretty cold outside then I sometimes have to give it two full twists before kicking it over. It always fires right up then.

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