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djtroy

Rekluse E-Axle question regarding offset

10 posts in this topic

I know a few of you 2006-2007 450f owners have cornering issues. I am included, so I went and purchased the E Axle hoping to cure my problems.

To make this bike corner should the axle be slid back or forward to make it corner. I have it set at max negative offset. My axle is now closer to my frame (not much mind you) but its set to the maximum negative offset.

Is this correct?

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The way you set it is the equivalent to installing a set of 23mm clamps on your bike. Whether that makes it corner better is up to you to decide.

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The way you set it is the equivalent to installing a set of 23mm clamps on your bike. Whether that makes it corner better is up to you to decide.

Well the way my bike corners I might need to set it to the equivalent of 19mm clamps. LOL

Its just doesn't corner so lets see what 23mm does.

I do notice its rubbing on something in the caliper, definately have a metal on metal issue going on. I read the rotor might be hitting the spring so perhaps I might nudge it forward just a bit.

UPDATE***

I took a look at the pads and I think the noise is just the pads rubbing on a part of the rotor they had never touched before. Im sure with a few stoppies it should be bedded in nice. I did move the axle forward a bit and the noise went away but im sure its no big deal.

Keep ya posted.

What offset is most common? I heard Chad Reed runs a 22.5mm offset

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Imagine looking at the axle from the brake side and seeing an arrow pointing to 3 o'clock. Rotate the arrow to around 4 o'clock. You'll gain clearance at the brake without moving it forward much.

The thing I think is that the reluctance to turn is fundamentally unrelated to trail changes (which is what the e-axle and alternate clamp offsets do). I think if you watch successful riders on late YZ's you'll see them sitting way forward on the bike. Way forward. IMO, you'll get as much from moving your bars forward and up as you will from changing your offset. Maybe more.

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Imagine looking at the axle from the brake side and seeing an arrow pointing to 3 o'clock. Rotate the arrow to around 4 o'clock. You'll gain clearance at the brake without moving it forward much.

The thing I think is that the reluctance to turn is fundamentally unrelated to trail changes (which is what the e-axle and alternate clamp offsets do). I think if you watch successful riders on late YZ's you'll see them sitting way forward on the bike. Way forward. IMO, you'll get as much from moving your bars forward and up as you will from changing your offset. Maybe more.

Ive tried to do that but its hard to train an old dog new tricks. Im going to the track today so I will try and make an effort to sit forward.

Then ill tell you how great the axle is LOL.

I also forget if you turn the throttle all the way to lock the bike goes faster (weird wrist position, think Villipoto). again old dog new tricks.

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I am SHOCKED at how well the old YZ tank turns now. Its a very big difference, I was about ready to sell this beast if I couldnt get it to turn. It was the final attepmt with the E Axle. Well guess what im keeping it.

I just ordered all new plastics and graphics kit for it. I also ordered an SDG tall seat even though im only 5-10 this might help even more. Perhaps I should get taller pegs. Is there anything you recommend for pegs?

I also ordered some Lightspeed goodies Disk guard and fork guards.

My love for the old gal is renewed, my buddy who runs up under me at the track on his KX250f got spanked hard this weekend. Thanks Rekluse.

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I'm running mine all the way back toward the frame, tucking the front wheel back... works nicely! Ran it all the way out to test and the bike would not steer at all. Still good stability in the 5th gear WFO sand washes (especially now with stiffer springs for my 200 lb arse).

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Did you have your suspension re-valved or just new springs (which rate did you get front and rear)? How much have you raised the tubes in the clamps and set your sag at for your 200 pounds? I'm the same weight as you are! My bike is an 06 and I have been told to raise the tubes to 12mm and set the sag at 102-3mm. I have t had the chance to try it that way though! I have .48kg stings in front from PO and I just put ona 5.6kg spring from Factory Connection. I haven't ridden it yet so I can't give a ride report yet!

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My 07' suspension was revalved by Race Tech for desert racing - it has a "pro-soft" setup with gold valves set up for the previous owner, A-class desert racer. I'm heavier so just installed the 5.6 rear and .50 springs in the front from the stock 5.4 and .48's. I'm running the forks about 8 mm up in the clamps (ran 5 mm for a little more high speed stability for fast wash riding and 8mm for tighter trails). Sag is set at 100mm. Seems to work really well, but only had a couple rides on new springs - blew shock seal last week so still a bit of tuning left to do. I love the heavier springs. Stability is now worlds better at high speed even with forks set at 8mm up in clamps. Bike turns much better in the sand and handles the big whoops and hits with much more confidence. Feels much softer even though I went stiffer (which is what's supposed to happen).

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