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Goosedog

Water in the crank, relocating breather tube.

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So I rode my YZ450 through a river this past weekend and unintentionally brought some creek water home with me...in the bottom of the crank. I'm sure it got in through the valve cover breather tube and probably wouldn't have if it hadn't stalled while in the water. I think what happens is that the breather tube must suck air in when kick starting as opposed to expelling gases out when running.

I now realize this is why WR's have the breather hose linked to the airbox while YZ's exit it down below the frame. Can I do that with my YZ, or is there gonna be a negative air-pressure flow issue?

Question number 2. What else can I do to get all the water out? I've changed the oil 6 times today using cheap stuff from the corner store, held the bike at numerous angles while running, changed the filter twice...and still the oil looks like the river I rode through.

Thanks

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If it were me it would be a whole engine teardown, or at the very least I would remove and inspect the oil pump. Don't ask me why. Good luck...

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So I rode my YZ450 through a river this past weekend and unintentionally brought some creek water home with me...in the bottom of the crank. I'm sure it got in through the valve cover breather tube and probably wouldn't have if it hadn't stalled while in the water. I think what happens is that the breather tube must suck air in when kick starting as opposed to expelling gases out when running.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=706602

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How much water did you drain out of it?

I didn't measure the amount of fluid on the first draining so I don't know how much of that was oil or water but it looked really bad. I did however change/flush the motor 1/2doz times today (using cheap oil) hoping it would start coming out looking more like the oil I'd just poured in. After 6 plus qrts run through the engine it's still draining out a mixture of oil, water and scum. I'm worried about my Rekluse clutch plates now too, not to mention all the bearings and seals in the motor.

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The biggest problem you have is the dirt that was in the water. Also, using cheap oil, you're probably not getting a very highly detergent oil, which is what's needed to pick up the water.

If you are draining the oil at both plugs, you should be getting most of the water. The foamy scum that the oil produces when mixed with water is more tenacious, though, and some disassembly might be prudent. Consider pulling the cam box and both crankcase covers, mop out what you can and rinse the engine out with a mix of alcohol and auto trans fluid (extremely detergent). Don't forget to fill the oil tank section though the dipstick hole to rinse that out, too.

When you have it reasonably well cleaned up, start the engine on a mix of ATF and a very light premium engine oil, like a 5w-30. Ride it around just fast enough to keep the radiators cooled and the glow off the header; don't stress the engine. Once it's warmed up fairly well, drain it while it's hot. Repeat as required.

After once or twice like that, use "real" oil and put a half hour or so on it and see what it looks like.

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rinse the engine out with a mix of alcohol and auto trans fluid (extremely detergent).

When you have it reasonably well cleaned up, start the engine on a mix of ATF and a very light premium engine oil, like a 5w-30.

When you say "rinse" do you mean to pour it through the opened valve cover with the cases and oil plugs off/out and just let it flow through the engine cold? And do you mean denatured Alcohol? And any brand/type of ATF? What percentage mix on both the blends you mention?

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Pour through, fill, slosh and drain, etc., yes. Denatured, isopropyl, or ethyl alcohol 25% in any good Dexron II/III ATF. Avoid methyl (wood) alcohol (too toxic). The mixture will work better warm. CAREFULLY heat the ATF to 100-120 degrees before adding the alcohol. Using ATF by itself, or the oil/ATF mix you use later, you can heat it to as high as 180 (F), but you don't want to evaporate the alcohol.

Heating oil should be done outdoors, away from any combustibles, and very carefully.

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Proceedure done, back to good oil, last change had no evidence of water or frothy scum. Rekluse approved methods too as they pertained to the clutch. Breather tube mod next. Thanks!

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