Shead some lite on a dark issue. YZ426 handling

[CyclePro238]

I want to do some testing on a few different things on my 01 YZ426 to help it turn a little better. The things I want to try are trying a lowering link and or trying a different offset in the clamp. One question I have about the lowering link is, Will lowering the subframe and or shaving the seat have the same affect on the bike as a lowering link? I would like to get the center of gravity down on the bike. If anyone has any input or info on any of these subjects plz post it.

Thanks, Nick

[LEMMON1]

i believe that a lowerin link will change how it handles more than the subframe and shaving hte seat but probably not the way u want it to handle...only thing really shaving the seat and or the subframe will be is makin it more conventin for u in startin and mountin ur bike...the links will drop ur ass of ur bike and i think that will affect the bike handlin more in the way i think it will make it worse in the cornin department unless u drop the front as well

[grayracer513]

Lowering links will do the opposite of what you want. Storm Cycles makes a linkage kit the improves cornering by raising the rear, not lowering it. That makes the head angle steeper, and improves the bike's willingness to turn at a small expense to the high speed stability.

[SRT426]

First, make sure the bike is sprung right... Then - Raise your forks in the clamps almost as high as they will go, and dial in a little more compression in the rear shock. Lowering with a lowering link the rear increases high speed stability but kills handling. You wantt the bike to stink bug just a little so to speak. I have my front forks almost all the way out on compression so it will settle under braking then as I power through the turn the rear will settle and drive me through. Make sure you are riding up on the fornt of the seat in turns also. I ride my 426 in tight woods and it turns as good as I need it to.

[CyclePro238]

First, make sure the bike is sprung right... Then - Raise your forks in the clamps almost as high as they will go, and dial in a little more compression in the rear shock. Lowering with a lowering link the rear increases high speed stability but kills handling. You wantt the bike to stink bug just a little so to speak. I have my front forks almost all the way out on compression so it will settle under braking then as I power through the turn the rear will settle and drive me through. Make sure you are riding up on the fornt of the seat in turns also. I ride my 426 in tight woods and it turns as good as I need it to.

Anyone els got any input on me trying this? Dosn't that kinda go against what grayracer was sain about raising the rear of the bike with the Storm Link? If I got my Sag to 100mm and raised my forks as high as I could get them, Wouldn't it want to put more weight on the back of the bike? Making it turn kinda slower?

[642MX]

The 426 does just about everything excellent, but it doesn't like to turn. Riding it like a 2 stroke helps (steer with the rear) find an outside line with some loam and blow it apart.

Here is what I did to try to get the 426 to hold an inside line, I bought an upper clamp that allows the bars to be moved very far forward. I have them all the way forward, the clamp is a Longhorn from RM. Also, I'm 6' 4" and I have a very tall seat on my bike, it helps to get my crotch closer to the steering head (seat is almost level across the top, no dip to settle into)

One more thing, I was talking to a suspension tuner about the cornering issues I was having. He told me he could fix some of the push with valving adjustments. I sent the forks/shock to him and he was right. It will tuck the front end and it doesn't feel like its going to wash out on tight slick corners.

Its still not an aluminum framed YZF or CRF, but it will turn. A few mods, and maybe a change in technique.... and you'll find your groove.

BTW, my sag is 100mm (recommended by the suspension guy) and its resprung front and rear for me (230 lbs).

[FinchFan194]

Raise your race sag to 102-105mm this will raise the rear end a little bit putting more weight on front wheel and slide your forks up as much as you can get them you triple clamps also run your chain all the way in as this shortens the length of the bike also making for easier turning. If you shave your seat it will put YOU lower on the bike and will help only while you are sitting down. Also ride the sh!t out of that gas tank and put the bike where you want it to go! good luck!

By forks up I mean up above the clamp like grey said below.

[grayracer513]

Anyone els got any input on me trying this? Dosn't that kinda go against what grayracer was sain about raising the rear of the bike with the Storm Link? If I got my Sag to 100mm and raised my forks as high as I could get them, Wouldn't it want to put more weight on the back of the bike? Making it turn kinda slower?

Your sag should be around 100mm on a 426. If it already is, try going to 95 to raise the back end up a bit.

The post you quoted agrees with what I said, not the other way around. When people say "raise the forks", it does not mean raise the front of the bike. I t means run the fork tubes farther up into the clamps, which lowers the front, and steepens the steering angle.

[CyclePro238]

Grayracer, I am running my clamps at about 5mm, Would droping to 10 or maybe even 15 help me out? I am not running 100MM of sag as my spring is a little to light and when I get the race sag set I have zero Static Sag. Any input on this? I think i'm running somwere around 120MM of sag. I am ordering a new spring next week to correct this issue.

Thanks, Nick

[grayracer513]

I am not running 100MM of sag as my spring is a little to light and when I get the race sag set I have zero Static Sag. Any input on this? I think i'm running somwere around 120MM of sag. I am ordering a new spring next week to correct this issue.

That's part of your problem, alright. Once the spring gets there, start at 100mm. You should see a big improvement.

Are your fork springs also too light?

[CyclePro238]

My forks are fine, I was supsed to get a 5.8 and I got a 5.6

[FinchFan194]

Your sag should be around 100mm on a 426. If it already is, try going to 95 to raise the back end up a bit.

The post you quoted agrees with what I said, not the other way around. When people say "raise the forks", it does not mean raise the front of the bike. I t means run the fork tubes farther up into the clamps, which lowers the front, and steepens the steering angle.

Ok now I am confused how is changing sag to 95 gonna raise the backend? Isn't that gonna lower it gray? If he starts at 100 doesn't like it then to raise the backend he should go to 102-105 isn't that what is recommended for YZF's with handling issues?

[grayracer513]

You are confused, indeed. Sag is the amount that the suspension settles from fully extended. If it settles 100mm, the back of the bike will be lower than if it settles 95, not higher.

[FinchFan194]

Thanks for clearing that up for me!

[yamaha600r73]

Try a Rekluse E-Axle does the same thing as triple clamps just cheaper

http://www.rekluse.com/e-Axle_mailer4.pdf

[YZF MAD]

i also have a 426 with handling problems.i am glad i came across this forum.cheers!!!

[buzzgrizz]

Try a Rekluse E-Axle does the same thing as triple clamps just cheaper

http://www.rekluse.com/e-Axle_mailer4.pdf

does rekluse make an e-axle for the 426 00' model i couldnt find one:excuseme:

[yamaha600r73]

I don't think they do, I noticed that after I posted it, sorry

[buzzgrizz]

will an e axle for an 02 or newer fit a 00 model or modified to fit?

[yamahammer426]

The 426 does just about everything excellent, but it doesn't like to turn. Riding it like a 2 stroke helps (steer with the rear) find an outside line with some loam and blow it apart.

Here is what I did to try to get the 426 to hold an inside line, I bought an upper clamp that allows the bars to be moved very far forward. I have them all the way forward, the clamp is a Longhorn from RM. Also, I'm 6' 4" and I have a very tall seat on my bike, it helps to get my crotch closer to the steering head (seat is almost level across the top, no dip to settle into)

One more thing, I was talking to a suspension tuner about the cornering issues I was having. He told me he could fix some of the push with valving adjustments. I sent the forks/shock to him and he was right. It will tuck the front end and it doesn't feel like its going to wash out on tight slick corners.

Its still not an aluminum framed YZF or CRF, but it will turn. A few mods, and maybe a change in technique.... and you'll find your groove.

BTW, my sag is 100mm (recommended by the suspension guy) and its resprung front and rear for me (230 lbs).

That makes me feel a little better. I was working on cornering on my friend's circle track a few days ago, and he decided to come over there with his KX450F and chase me. I was leaning the crap out of it, elbows up, carrying as much speed into/out of the turn as I could, and he was blowing past me every time.