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minty0_10

valve adjustments when should they be done?

14 posts in this topic

evening all i have a 2005 wr 450 witch ive had more or less from new mileage wise so i know they haven't yet been looked at.

is just done 2000 kilometres so when should i look at getting them done.

any tips or hints on how i should know if they need doing?

its never been raced just used for green laning

cheers :thumbsup:

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valves?what you're suppose to check them things:lol: huh?...a good friend of mine is a yamaha tech,he swears by every 30 to 40 hrs.most of the time if you're not ringing the sh-t out of them you're fine though

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every 40 hours you should check the valves .

if they are out of adjustment you should adjust the valves . re-shim .

that is what Yamaha recommends (40 hours)

Suzuki , Kawasaki , Honda , KTM are every 15 hours .

aren't you glad you bought a Yamaha

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I hear you on the 30-40 hours. If I were a MC tech, i'd want to tell my customers that they need to come in and get _ _ _ _ _ _ done too.

I'm a Service Manager for an electrical contractor and I do what I can to let the client know that they need some preventative maintenance at least one a year too. Not a perfect world for sure.

My bike(s) runs the same as it did when i bought it. Hey, you have the know how to do it yerself? go for it. I would too. You got the cash, take it to yamaha.

All I could say is I've never even touched mine yet. She still runs fine. But that's just mine. I have a buddie that's very hard on his bikes and usually goes through a motor every other season then a new bike.

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I'd rather check my valves than lose a motor.

It's pretty simple really - half an hour if you have the know how, an hour if you don't....better than 2g's because you didn't bother.....

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If its running bad it's already to late most likely, BAD philosophy. Thats why it's called preventitive maintenance, to prevent damage and catch things before they are to far past correction.

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a little story that I experienced this summer:

friend bought bike, ran ok so he rode it.

Started getting hard to start - suggested he check valve clearances - he didn't bother.

Took him more and more to start it - to the point where he was spending more time trying to start the bike that riding it.

Finally got around to checking.

Two of the intake valves were so tight he needed to pull the cam out 3 times and run and get shims 3 times until he was able to get a reading and get them set right - so that took over two weeks of spare time.

By the time the bike was good again, we had snow on the ground.

Moral - just do it on time and before symptoms arise - else you'll just waste a whole bunch of time you could be spending ON the bike.

I just finished bringing everything our 4 bikes back to spec and am looking forward to just hitting the track with my son and wife the second the snow melts - some other friends just threw their bikes into the shed in the fall ignoring my recommendation of checking them over - wanna bet I'll be riding without my buddies come April/May???

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i would probably check them , its been 4 years it sure can't hurt .

you can download the manual its in a sticky , the manual goes over it . all you need is a feeler gage .

if they need to be adjusted you can then take it to a shop or do it yourself .

or you can just take it to a shop .

i personally do all my work myself , i check the valves every winter i don't really worry about hours i just know how it should run .i usually don't get in that much riding probably only 40-50 hours a summer lately . only put 2k on my brand new street bike this year .*sigh

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right thanks for all the imfo chaps, it always starts 2nd kick from cold first when warm.

takes a while to start off the botton when cold hence i use the kick.

even so im going to get the checked asap :thumbsup:

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I did my own. Hardest part was getting the feeler guages in there to where I felt confident I was getting a good reading. Do you guys use special guages? The bent ones? or extra narrow ones?

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on mine the normal straight feelers work well, the middle intake only has about 1mm clearance so you have to get it in straight, but it's a non issue imo.

they will not work on the 250

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easy job for anyone that has basc wrenching abilities. I checked mine recently and proud to say they are STILL in tolerance (in fact closer to the loose side cold) after 2.5 years of consistent use. I stay off the rev limiter, that probably has something to do with the lack of replacement work I do on our bikes.

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