rekluse owners chime in

lol!! thanks!

And if you want it to lock up even quicker and harder, then order the tungsten balls. I use the tungsten balls in both our bikes.

A question for those that use the Rekluse for MX. Does the Rekluse change how the bike jumps? The stock yz450f has enough engine braking that chopping the throttle in the air will drop the front-end. Does this still happen with the Rekluse or do you have to use the rear brake to drop the front-end?

The Rekluse is engaged or disengaged strictly by the speed of the engine, so at speed, when you simply let off the gas, engine braking is normal until the engine slows to the set stall speed, where the clutch releases. What happens in the air, then, is a bit different. As you drop the throttle on leaving the ground, normal engine braking will occur, and you'll get the forward shift in pitch angle you would expect. If the engine reaches idle speed, the clutch will disengage, and you could land it that way as if you had pulled the clutch lever, with no engine braking. If, however, you blip the throttle just a little, it re-engages at once, so it could be a little odd until you adjust to it.

Similarly, if you were to pull the lever and let the engine drop to an idle, the clutch would disengage, and you could then let the lever out and continue coasting as if you had the lever held in. Again, blipping the throttle re-engages the clutch, and the connection again seems normal.

For the most part, it will seem not so different.

A question for those that use the Rekluse for MX. Does the Rekluse change how the bike jumps? The stock yz450f has enough engine braking that chopping the throttle in the air will drop the front-end. Does this still happen with the Rekluse or do you have to use the rear brake to drop the front-end?

You won't notice any difference in the air. If you chop the throttle to adjust the pitch, it will be the same as a standard clutch. I don't use the rear brake much on jumps unless they are really long with a short run where I'm wide open on the jump face. And if you do use the rear brake in the air, you don't have to worry about pulling the clutch in.... Its like cheating! :banana:

Has anyone used the rekluse basket as well??? If so, how are the dampeners serviceable like it says on rekluse web site? I figured you have to replace the basket if your dampeners are too worn, but with the rekluse basket can you just replace the dampeners? I'm trying to figure out what it means by the dampeners are serviceable.

I'm trying to figure out what it means by the dampeners are serviceable.
It means you can open up the gear assembly and replace the damper springs.

After 4 years of use I just had to order the plate that the balls rest in. It was wore out where the little fingers stick through. Anyway, it cost a $100. I was trying to decide wether to go with a pro or take the cheap route. I ended up going the cheap route but my reasoning was that after using mine with the barrell aduster and manual overide vs just the thing with the spring on the case I ended up with just the spring thing and took off the clutch lever. I found that the spring only gave me a better more consistent engagement and If I used the clutch much when I had on the barrel adjuster I tended to fry the clutch. So my question to you guys is this, is the pro a little easier on plates? Do you find yourself using the clutch lever more with the pro? Is the engagment any different then the z start? Would you guys have paid just the $100 to get your z start back going or sprung the extra $500 to get a pro??

After 4 years of use I just had to order the plate that the balls rest in. It was wore out where the little fingers stick through. Anyway, it cost a $100. I was trying to decide wether to go with a pro or take the cheap route. I ended up going the cheap route but my reasoning was that after using mine with the barrell aduster and manual overide vs just the thing with the spring on the case I ended up with just the spring thing and took off the clutch lever. I found that the spring only gave me a better more consistent engagement and If I used the clutch much when I had on the barrel adjuster I tended to fry the clutch. So my question to you guys is this, is the pro a little easier on plates? Do you find yourself using the clutch lever more with the pro? Is the engagment any different then the z start? Would you guys have paid just the $100 to get your z start back going or sprung the extra $500 to get a pro??

I've had both and the Pro is the way to go. Send your plate back and spend the money, its worth it. The Pro locks up with a more positive feel, it hardly ever needs serviced, the fibers last 3 times as long and when they are shot you just throw in the thick plate and ride it some more. They also take about 1/4 of the time to install.

For what its worth, after I rode a friends WR450 with the Pro, I went home, ordered the Pro (actually I ordered 2, one for the wifey and one for me) and removed and boxed up my old, perfectly good Z-Starts and threw them under the work bench.

I use my over-ride for MX starts and sometimes on the face of jumps. Other than that, I don't touch the lever.

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