clutch problem?

Clutch has 26hrs on it and it seems to be overheating. Stalled in a corner and when I kicked it, it felt like it was in gear(when it wasn't). It wouldn't start until it cooled down for 15min. I took it apart and everything looks ok but the clutch springs are a little out of spec. They are 48.5mm when the limit is 50mm-49mm. The clutch boss has small notches, I've ridden much worse on other bikes and was ok. The basket was replaced with the clutch so it looks brand new. I'm guessing my clutch lever free play was a little tight and that is what caused the overheating. I've always liked a touchy clutch but never had this problem before. Other than replacing the springs any suggestions. Thanks

What oil are you running in the bike?

Amsoil 10w-40 from day 1. Oem clutch plates and springs. Change oil every 4-5hrs. Clean stainless filter every time. The oil had 4hrs on it.

I know i am going to get yelled at for saying this but in my 250f i tryed running some amsoil since it was giving to me. My clutch starting slipping and then stopped working all together. When i changed the oil back to my bel ray synthetic wala it started working again. Just my 2 cents

... wala...
"Voilà"

I have run Amsoil MCF and MCV in all my YZF's since '05 without any clutch issues. It WILL NOT cause a healthy clutch to slip.

Not yelling, just stating fact.

"Voilà"

I have run Amsoil MCF and MCV in all my YZF's since '05 without any clutch issues. It WILL NOT cause a healthy clutch to slip.

Not yelling, just stating fact.

And i was just sharing what happened. By the way that clutch is still in the bike and i have put another 100 hours on it no slipage.

I really don't think it's the oil. I've been running amsoil in my bikes since '04. It's not that it's slipping, it's not disengaging, even with 10mm of free play in the lever.

You do know that more free play makes it less likely to disengage, right? Try the prescribed 3mm.

Yes, but the prescribed free play is 8-13mm. It's at 10mm...

Yes, but the prescribed free play is 8-13mm. It's at 10mm...
I had to see that for myself, but I see what the trouble is. Because of the dust boot, they are giving the travel at the end of the lever. I was talking about 3mm at the cable.

The '07 clutch was built with one fewer pair of plates compared with earlier 450 clutches to get them to release with a higher leverage ratio, which gives them their light feel. Unfortunately, I think this is what's behind the higher number of '07 clutches that fail early compared with the older models. They can be converted back to '06 standards.

Either way, clutch drag is normally caused by one or more of the same set of problems:

  • Plates not flat (warped, dished, bent)
  • Unevenly sagged springs (not a usual problem for a YZF)
  • Worn basket/boss rails
  • Adjustment
  • Wrong oil

hey guys and gray.

how can i make my clutch feel like butter ? my clutch cable is pretty smooth going and clean, but its still pretty stiff.

to moto T id throw in a new clutch for start, very cheap and easy to replace.

The clutch plates are in spec, the steels are not warped and the basket and boss have 26hrs. on them and they are not notched. I'm not going to replace something that is in spec.

Well, I put the clutch back together with new springs, started first kick but would barely say running without giving any throttle. Drained the oil (fine) but the oil filter was full of metal shavings!!!!!! I read in an earlier thread that it could be bearing retainer screws backing out or the oil pump. That would definetly explain the engine stalling. I'm in the process of tearing down the engine, any pointers?

The clutch plates are in spec, the steels are not warped and the basket and boss have 26hrs. on them and they are not notched. I'm not going to replace something that is in spec.

yes true.

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