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Jim_Patterson

450 Carb access for jetting

11 posts in this topic

Saturday AM I'm going to rejet. I'd like to get it done with the least hassle. Can I tilt the carb far enough to rejet? Do I have to remove the cables to rotate that far. Or do I have to pull the whole carb out? I'm hoping I can rotate it without removing anything. (LAZY!)

I'm also going to check the torque on the flywheel nut. Do I hold the flywheel steady by being in gear and locking up the rear brake? Hmmmmm Could I shear the woodruff this way?

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jim i too am lazy.well not that i am lazy but it was getting late and i gotta fix the power to ny shed for light. i rejetted yesterday. i didn't remove the carb.i took the clamp off the airbox and pulled the rubber hose out of the way. i took the clamp off the head. there are two clamps there take the one closest to the motor off. than she will tilt out enough to get to the jets. not the best idea but works when your pressed for time. i only switched the main jet up to a 155 the bike idled alot better. still haven't goten a chance to ride it yet.if it doesn't run right i will be taking the carb all the way off(not being lazy) and move the clip on the needle one spot and going up to a 48 pilot.

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Just take the bars off so the cables have more slack and you can move the carb a lot further

Good luck

Eric

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Jim -

I just got in from the garage and it is relatively easy.There is no need to totally remove the carb to do jetting changes.

1. Remove the Hot Start from the shifter side of the carb.

2. Remove the two fasteners holding the electronic gizmo to the frame on the Kickstarter side of the bike that prevents the carb from rotating.

3. Loosen the boot clamps on both ends of the carb and rotate the bowl toward the shifter side of the bike. You can then get to the bowl screws and change the jets to your liking.

Note: All of the above is a little easier with the seat and tank off the bike, but now that I've done it, you could probably get it done with the tank and seat still on if you like.

Good Luck and be carefull cracking loose the bowl screws. I stripped out the phillips head on one even with a newer screwdriver. They seemed a little soft to me, luckily I had some "spares" in the bin.

Rainman WFO :)

03 WR450F

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. i only switched the main jet up to a 155 the bike idled alot better.

:) The main jet has no relation to how your Motorcycle will idle. You should be able to change your main jet, pilot jet, and starter jet without touching anything except the seventeen mm nut on the bottom of the float bowl.

You can also change the needle clip settings by slacking the throttle cables, airbox boot clamp, intake clamp, and fuel line leaving everything else intact. Takes about five minutes.

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Why did you take the bowl off? You could not get it through the hole?

Who are you quoting?? If it's me, I did not take of the bowl. I removed the seventeen mm bolt at the bottom of the bowl.

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Superbike -

If you are only working with the Main and the Pilot jets, then its fine to just remove the bowl cap. But if you also want to change the starter jet to a 72, you need to get the bowl off to do it as it is to the side of the white plastic piece and not accessible through the hole.

I'm going with "utvols" recommended 160 Main, 48 Pilot, 72 Starter jet, 1 3/4 turns of the pilot screw & stock needle @ position #4, Grey wire disconnected. BIG DIFFERENCE & HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for the up to 5000' elevation crowd !! The bike rips hard now and starts easily !!

Rainman WFO :)

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I thought that was all you were changing. That is why I was wondering what was going on. I will get the stuff around to do this. I have to fix my heater before I can fix the bike. I just want to play with it. Uhhh, the bike that is :) Thanks! ---Mike

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By. "Rainman_WFO"; I'm going with "utvols" recommended 160 Main, 48 Pilot, 72 Starter jet, 1 3/4 turns of the pilot screw & stock needle @ position #4, Grey wire disconnected. BIG DIFFERENCE & HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for the up to 5000' elevation crowd !! The bike rips hard now and starts easily !!

I am running my WR426FP uncorked, lid removed, gray wire mod, MJ #168, Needle Clip position #4, PJ #45, Air/Fuel mixture screw 1 and 3/4 turns out, hotter spark plug, and the rest is stock. Runs great here in Utah. 4300 ft. plus above sea level.

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