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youthenrage

street legal lighting questions

6 posts in this topic

Another sort of n00b question...

I'm trying to get my 98 wr400 street legal-ish, to do that i need Hi/Lo, brake light, and license plate light (and more, but I'm figuring out lighting right now). I've read that the stock headlamp on the WR400 is capable of Hi/Lo, just needs the proper filament and I assume a Hi/Lo switch.

Question 1: Can I just rewire the headlight on/off switch to hi/lo?

I also read that the rear light is capable of rear/brake lighting, that all I need to do is installed a brake switch and wire it in to the extra rear light wire.

Question 2: Will this: http://www.motostrano.com/hybrlisw.html work on my WR? Does the screw end go into the rear master cylinder bleeder valve? I'm assuming so - it is a banjo bolt.

Question 3: does the WR take a 10x1.25mm or 10x1.00mm for the bleeder bolt?

Looking a little bit further ahead, I'm going to need to mount a license plate, and light it up eventually.

Question 4: Can somebody recommend a good aftermarket plate holder/lighting combo that will fit the WR400? Even a whole new rear fender, preferably with LED lighting.

Thanks in advance, I really appreciate all the help I've gotten on these boards! Sorry if any of these questions can be answered in the manual, mine didn't come with one and my clymer manual is in the mail.

Jeremy

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My WR400 is street legal due to the Electrosport Dakar kit: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=691991

http://www.electrosport.com/dirt-bike/dirt-bike-model-products-listing-dirt_36800.php

I don't have anything to compare it to, but it works well enough for me and is small and light. You do have to be vigilant about hooking it up to a battery tender every night, though, because the battery is *tiny*. If you leave it connected with the bike not runnign for a few months, it'll kill the battery. If the battery is not fully charged, it won't push enough current to run a horn. But hey, it was on the bike and it works well enough. Headlight works fine. I need to replace the tail light and turn signals with LEDs to drop power requirements, and the new LED headlights might be acceptable.

For license plate light, I mounted two squidly license plate LEDs directly to the license plate to pass Maryland inspection. (Then removed them once I got home. :thumbsup: )

~Patrick

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The '98 WR comes with a dual filament bulb in the front and rear. The lighting system is AC current. The running lights run off of the yellow wire running up the frame. You can find it buy removing the seat. The rear lamp is wired for running and stop lamp. Yellow for running, blue for stop and black for ground.

For the front you will have to go to the auto parts store and get a new head lamp connector with three terminals. You will also need to get a hi/lo switch, the existing switch is a two wire single pole/single throw (meaning on/off). You could buy a double pole/double throw toggle switch, but then you have to figure out where to mount it. Sicass, kandstech or the Thumper Store (I think there all K&S) offer a couple bar mounted hi/lo switches with different options.

For the brake light used a hydraulic like the one you picked. Splice into yellow for power to one switch lead and run the other switch lead to blue.

This will get you hi/lo and brake lamp on a shoe string. Here in MI this meets the minimum lighting requirement.

Almost forgot, you can get license plate light for the auto part store and wire that into the yellow wire as well.

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DC not AC right?

No AC thats why you need a bridge rectifier to charge a battery. Thats a whole other can of worms. Try this site www.farplaces.com It will give you some ideas.

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