oil plug under skid plate 07 450

I'm sure I've seen this question before but I had a 426 at the time and this wasn't an issue,is there a extension or an easy way to access the plug on the bottom of the crank case?getting it out is no problem putting it in another story.:worthy:

Practice, Practice, Practice. What's really fun is reinstalling a magnetic plug (they're longer) in that location through the hole in a Devol skid plate. PITA

The best approach I've found is to reach under the bike from the opposite side when either unscrewing or replacing the plug.

As much as I admire the vast majority of the engineering that went into the YZ450, the person who did that drain plug is an idiot.

I take my skid plate off when I change the oil. It's a PITA with out, plus I like to clean the bottom of my motor each time.

Seems where on the subject.....hows everyone torqing that bolt. Even with an open end socket I cant reach it with a torq wrench.

Strange, never have had a problem with this. Also, I find that it`s not necessary to use torque wrench on every bolt there is. I have used a torque wrench quite a bit and my hand-dyno has been quite accurate. Of course I am not talking about hand tightening my cam cap bolt etc.

Seems where on the subject.....hows everyone torqing that bolt. Even with an open end socket I cant reach it with a torq wrench.

i take my Works Connection plate off and use the ring spanner on the bolt. i finger tighten the bolt then do it by feel. 1/8 turn maybe less just get it snug. probably around 10 - 11 ft/lbs

If you must use a torque wrench, there are adapters that look like cutoff box end wrenches with a 3/8" square drive at one end. You put them on the torque wrench at right angles to the wrench handle.

But it really shouldn't be necessary to use a torque wrench on the plug.

I use 1/4 inch drive tools to aid in not stripping

Practice, Practice, Practice. What's really fun is reinstalling a magnetic plug (they're longer) in that location through the hole in a Devol skid plate. PITA

The best approach I've found is to reach under the bike from the opposite side when either unscrewing or replacing the plug.

As much as I admire the vast majority of the engineering that went into the YZ450, the person who did that drain plug is an idiot.

Agrreed..I have an MSR plate and the the access hole is easy to get the plug out...anyway I will try your method Gray

If you must use a torque wrench, there are adapters that look like cutoff box end wrenches with a 3/8" square drive at one end. You put them on the torque wrench at right angles to the wrench handle.

But it really shouldn't be necessary to use a torque wrench on the plug.

Thats what I have but the drain bolt sits just high enough above the frame that the tool dosn't fit correctly. Unless they make longer versions? Was just curious who was actually using a torq wrench and how.

I have a Works Connection skid plate and use a ratcheting box end wrench. I get the bolt started with my fingers then stick a small screwdriver against the head of the bolt and start tightening(keeps the bolt from loosening).Works like a charm.

I also have a Works Connection skid plate and use a ratcheting box end wrench as the guy above me just said.

BUT The noise from the engine up into my helmet bothered me so much i put the foam pad in that came with the WC skid plate.

Kinda need to pull it off now.

racheting box end eh?? I 'll check it out

Thats what I have but the drain bolt sits just high enough above the frame that the tool dosn't fit correctly. Unless they make longer versions? Was just curious who was actually using a torq wrench and how.

Easy enough - get yourself a 'crowfoot wrench set' (you can buy them at a good tool store, or even Sears) and an extension (harder to find). Don't forget to adjust for the extension length (Actual Torque = Indicated x (wrench length + extension length) / wrench length), or go to an online calculator such as BelknapTools

Easy enough - get yourself a 'crowfoot wrench set' (you can buy them at a good tool store, or even Sears) and an extension (harder to find). Don't forget to adjust for the extension length (Actual Torque = Indicated x (wrench length + extension length) / wrench length), or go to an online calculator such as BelknapTools
If you put the crowfoot or torque adapter on at right angles to the wrench handle as I mentioned before, it's unnecessary to compensate for the length.

I just remove the skidplate. Makes the whole process easy and clean...also allows me to clean any built up mud out. If you keep grease on your skidplate mounting bolts they come right out.

If you put the crowfoot or torque adapter on at right angles to the wrench handle as I mentioned before, it's unnecessary to compensate for the length.

Sorry, should have clarified my statement by referring to changes to overall straightline length. However, if you add length (i.e. increase the straight line distance between the handle centreline and fastener), you absolutely must. There are numerous other factors that'll affect the torque reading, but this will throw things way off. e.g. a 3" extension on a 12" wrench should read(or be set) 15Nm(9ft/lbs) for a desired torque of 20Nm(14ft/lbs).

That's true. But that's why torque adapters need to be as short as practical, and mounted to the wrench at right angles.

For the nitpickers, this does also add to the length between fastener and force point on the handle, but let's take the currently offered example:

A 3" torque adapter on a 12" wrench forms an angle of 14 degrees between the centerline of the handle and a line drawn from the force point to the fastener. That means that the distance between the fastener and the force point has increased to 12.37", a 3% change. Since that's effectively less than the error produced by most users using torque wrenches, it can essentially be ignored.

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