starter relay question

Has anyone ever had this problem on your WR? Went to start the other day and nothing...traced down to starter relay. Power to, but no power through relay...jumped the wires and starter turned over. Does this sound right or am I passing by some other circuit and the relay isnt the problem.

thanks bill

Did you try to jump power to the coil positive or did you just jump across the main power terminals on the relay? It sounds like you just jumped power across the main power terminals.

I'm not saying that you have diagnosed the problem, but from your description it sounds like you could have burned contacts on the starter relay. This would be more likely if the bike is older and gets started a lot with the electric start.

The other thing I'm referring to is putting a jumper wire from the battery positive directly to the coil power to see if the relay is even closing.

Good luck!

trailhead2004

There is a black and a red wire (on the '05) relay. The red should be hot at all times, and if jumped across to the black, the starter should turn, indicating the starter circuit is OK.

There should also be a brown and a blue/white (again, the '05 colors). The brown should show battery voltage with the main switch turned on. Grounding the blue/white lead should make the starter run, meaning that the starter relay is OK.

Following along, there is a second relay in the system, called the starter circuit cut-off relay. With the switch on, the brown lead should show battery power. Grounding the blue/black should run the starter if this relay is OK.

Now check the starter button. It should show no resistance between the two blue/black leads when the button is pushed, and be open when it's released.

Then, check the blue/black lead that runs not back to the relay, but to the safety switches. This lead should show a good ground when the clutch lever is pulled while the bike is in gear, and when the bike is in neutral. If it does not show a ground in either, switch your test leads and try again. If there is still no ground, test the isolator diode (#4 in the schematic). It's possible that both safety switches could be bad, but not likely.

There is a black and a red wire (on the '05) relay. The red should be hot at all times, and if jumped across to the black, the starter should turn, indicating the starter circuit is OK.

There should also be a brown and a blue/white (again, the '05 colors). The brown should show battery voltage with the main switch turned on. Grounding the blue/white lead should make the starter run, meaning that the starter relay is OK.

Following along, there is a second relay in the system, called the starter circuit cut-off relay. With the switch on, the brown lead should show battery power. Grounding the blue/black should run the starter if this relay is OK.

Now check the starter button. It should show no resistance between the two blue/black leads when the button is pushed, and be open when it's released.

Then, check the blue/black lead that runs not back to the relay, but to the safety switches. This lead should show a good ground when the clutch lever is pulled while the bike is in gear, and when the bike is in neutral. If it does not show a ground in either, switch your test leads and try again. If there is still no ground, test the isolator diode (#4 in the schematic). It's possible that both safety switches could be bad, but not likely.

What he said... but I have found that it has always been the starter button and not the ignition switch, relay contacts, or relay coil. It will usually start by failing intermittently and even closing while the bike is running all on its own...

What he said... but I have found that it has always been the starter button and not the ignition switch, relay contacts, or relay coil. It will usually start by failing intermittently and even closing while the bike is running all on its own...
That's the way things work in general. The most likely electrical component failures, IMO, are:

>Manual Physical switches

>Automatic physical switches (relays)

>Terminals and connectors

>Motors and EM coils

>Solid state devices

You could actually start troubleshooting by jumping across the two blue/black leads with the key on. If the starter works, it's the button. If it does not, ground them both, one at a time. If one makes the starter run, it's the diode or your safety switches. I neither will operate it, the problem is with one of the two relays.

easy quick test of the start button if you don't have a VOM... the kill button is identical in terms of connectors and button design... it's just red. Plug the kill button into the start button's connection behind the headlight and see if your starter works...

I had a similar issue where my bike wouldn't start. There are a couple of cut-off circuits that will suppress that relay. You should look at your wiring diagram.

In my case, I found that a wire on one of the connectors behind my headlight was broken off. It was already pulled pretty tight and on of my crashes finally seperated the wire. Once I fixed the wire, it worked.

Those are solid state relays and should really last several lifetimes.

Wow guys...thanks for all the trouble shooting tips...will get back to you to let you know what happens.

bill

Well I'm embarrased to confess but here goes. After reading all of your posts and the mention of safety switches, it got me thinking. You see I ride a YZ 450 and the WR is friend of mine that I am doing the work on after he picked this thing up for $1500, so the other night as I was working on it, buttoning everything up it must of got put in gear. The shift lever had been off while the kick starter and electric starter were being worked on so no problem getting it in a gear. Went back two days later to check the gear placement and sure enough it was in gear...slipped it into nuetral and she cranked over.:p:lol:

It should crank in gear, too, if you pull the clutch lever in.

Got the old thing running last night...it hadnt run in years so the compression was low due I guess to stuck rings...there was a lot of blow by coming out of the valve cover tube while we were wearing the starter out just cranking and cranking then all of a sudden the thing spun fast enough and she was running. The blowby stopped and she ran like a moded out wr should. It's been three weeks of one thing after another but now she's ready for a trip to Mena Arkansas this week...going to put some time on it around the farm for a few days and chang the oil and filter again. Test and adjust the carb and suspension. I was surprised to find out it has five gears...not like my 04 yz 450 with four. Now Im thinking of wr gears in my o4...possible? Grey I know you know this one...beside splitting the cases anything else I need to know?

Thanks Bill

Now Im thinking of wr gears in my o4...possible? Grey I know you know this one...beside splitting the cases anything else I need to know?

You'll find it in Common Threads. parts list in post 8.

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