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mazzuca21366

Best Ni Cad battery?

12 posts in this topic

I am planning on installing a dual sport kit on my yz450f. I want to run the lights on battery power only. Does anyone know the best nicad battey to use? I am going to mount the battery to the rear fender just behind the seat in a plastic box so it looks like the tool bag on a DRZ400. If I can get say 2 hours of road use this would be fine. The headlight should be 35watts from acerbis ,and the signals will be LED. I just want this setup for short local day rides without doing the stator replacement. I can also run a switch to kill the headlight to conserve power. This will also get me legal to get a tag for street use. I will hook up my battery tender after each ride to charge the battery.

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You could build your own battery with RC car cells and charge it with an RC car charger.

You can build a NiMh pack (no charge/discharge memory) with 11 1.2V cells, capacity of 5000mAh, or 5 Amps per hour for around $75 plus charger if you want to go the worry free route.

Since you not going to be charging this battery while riding, you may want to look into a different head light, that 35 watt bulb alone at 13.2V will draw 2.65A, and at 12 volts 2.92A, that will kill a small battery very quickly, is there LED headlights too? LED's generally consume up to 10mA each, as long as you find a headlight with less than 290 LED's in it (which would be VERY bright), then you will be able to go much much longer on a small battery.

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Lithium Ion batteries are superior to Nickle Metal Hydrides, which are better than NiCads. Trail Tech offers some. E-Batt has some interesting offerings, but talk to them before sending money. I don't doubt their honesty, but they are apparently a very small operation, possibly part time, so there have been delays.

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Thanks for the input. I just want to be able to get by for the street. Its nice to be able to test ride the bike instead of gioing to the track after youve made adjustments especially carb related. I wouldnt want to have the carb apart at the track!

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I second Gray's suggestion of using Lithium Ion cells. Not only do they not have the memory issues of Nicads, but they also offer lighter weight, and a very low self discharge rate (around 5% compared to 25-30% for NiMH). The only disadvantages really are:

a - the cells start to decay almost immediately and will lose about 15-20% of their capacity a year so make sure you purchase fresh cells and not something that has been sitting around for a while.

b - You have to be careful not to discharge them too far.

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I second Gray's suggestion of using Lithium Ion cells. Not only do they not have the memory issues of Nicads, but they also offer lighter weight, and a very low self discharge rate (around 5% compared to 25-30% for NiMH). The only disadvantages really are:

a - the cells start to decay almost immediately and will lose about 15-20% of their capacity a year so make sure you purchase fresh cells and not something that has been sitting around for a while.

b - You have to be careful not to discharge them too far.

All true, although the self discharge rates are even lower than that now. It has been said that a L-Ion battery will retain 50% of its original capacity after 300 cycles from charged to discharged. Storing them in a charged state, and connecting them occasionally to a charger to keep them like that helps them last. Leaving them discharged and connected to a load circuit will kill them.

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I don't know how much output you need but I have used Night Sun equipment for over a decade on my bicycles. The batteries only last so long,and last time I upgraded to a Li-ion. This combined with the 10 watt bulb gave me almost 7hours of light. Their batteries look like water bottles. Last I looked they offered 10,20, and 35 watt bulbs, but the 35 drains the battery quick and they dont suggest continuous use of the 35. The lights I have are dual beam and I have several, but I use the 10/20 watt system the most.(on high ,both lights burn) This is probably going to be more than you want to spend, but you might buy a bulb or a battery. Don't tell them you are building from scratch, as they wont sell, lawyer advice I guess.You might want to check out their web site. I have been mistaken for a motorcycle many times in the woods, especially with the high beams on, people wonder why a motorcycle is so quiet. :lol:

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I see your in PA. If you haven't got it done, I will steer you in the right direction, as I have done a CRF 450 R. You are going to need a new ignition to power the battery. They will test that in the inspection, FYI.

Let me know

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www.batteryspace.com

You could go with a water bottle style battery in a backpack too and connect via a cord near your seat/tank/airbox junction. You are gonna need one heck of a battery to power halogen lights for 2 hours!

As stated above you will really need a lighting coil ignition converted to DC to properly charge the battery. In this case you might as well go with a small battery pack in the airbox.

I have been there and done that, there are much better bikes to DS!

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I am installing the kit from Procycle. I am going to leave the headlight off during riding unless I see the police, therefore I will only be powering a led taillight and my Vapor speedo setup. This will be hardly any drain at all.

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