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Nathanael

WR426 - ZipTy

3 posts in this topic

Hey guys,

You might remember my thread about my WR dying a while back, and how it turned out to be electrical. As a little update - we had thought it was the CDI box, but turns out it was the stator. During cam replacement something had fallen into the engine and ripped the stator to pieces. :D

It's all fixed now and it runs great. I ran it in a tough race last weekend:

Be sure to click on the "watch in high quality" link. I'm #65 - had a good race aside from a get off that lost me the 1st o/a amateur spot. Ended around 15th or so.

Anyways, the question today is about the ZipTy carb mod. First off - anyone here have that mod done? Like it? Hate it? Worth it? etc.

Second, to those who know about it or have had it done, there's three options on the mod, each with a different price, and I'm curious which one would be the most useful to me.

Option #1: Price - $100. This is the basic mod. Send in the carb and they modify the accelerator pump linkage with a new spring design, make changes in the float bowl area and give your carb a complete overhaul.

Option #2: Price - $160. They do option #1 plus give you a new fuel screw, hot start plug (don't need this as I have a Dr.D hot start lever), and float bowl drain bolt (magnetized).

Option #3: Price - $335 or something. This has to be bundled with Option #2, but they replace the float bowl as well.

Option #1 seems the best to me, but if there was some benefit to 2 or 3 I'd be willing to listen. So any opinions here?

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Option 1 sounds best to me too.

A magnetic float bowl screw, hmm, there's obviously some reason for it, but since the tank is plastic and anything contaminating it is likely dirt, I can't see a magnet being of any advantage. Fule screw is 20 bucks so for what it's worth - go with the 100 job and buy a fuel screw.

If you're going to drop 335 for option 3 - wouldn't a few more bucks and an Edlebrock carb make more sense?

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Option 1 sounds best to me too.

A magnetic float bowl screw, hmm, there's obviously some reason for it, but since the tank is plastic and anything contaminating it is likely dirt, I can't see a magnet being of any advantage. Fule screw is 20 bucks so for what it's worth - go with the 100 job and buy a fuel screw.

If you're going to drop 335 for option 3 - wouldn't a few more bucks and an Edlebrock carb make more sense?

Kinda what I was thinking too. Just get the fuel screw + the mod, only $120, which is very reasonable imo. I rode a YZF that had that mod and was impressed with the throttle response.

Thanks for the opinion!

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