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Himsa123

Clutch Switch Sensor

9 posts in this topic

I just recently removed my computer from my 07 WR 450 and was wondering do I need to short the clutch switch sensor? I have no problem doing this but didnt know if it is something thats required if you remove the computer and headlight. Thanks all!

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I just recently removed my computer from my 07 WR 450 and was wondering do I need to short the clutch switch sensor? I have no problem doing this but didnt know if it is something thats required if you remove the computer and headlight. Thanks all!

Not at all. Leave it in - it's safer!

Imagine this scenario with the shorted sensor: stopped on a very narrow single track in gear 'cause of a bottle-neck ahead. Lean on the bars with arms folded to catch your breath while the trail ahead unclogs. Accidently press on the e-start button with your elbow and in the blink of an eye you are on your ass off the trail and down the side. This has actually happened to people!

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Ok thanks for the feedback, its staying in. Why would some people short it out then hmm:excuseme:

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ya i would be screwed some times if i didnt have it. haha not really screwed just on my back looking at the stars.

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Why would some people short it out then hmm:excuseme:

I've done it - so much for practising what I preach:busted: The reason for this is if you stall in gear, then with the stock set-up you have to first find neutral before the e-start will crank. With the connector shorted behind the headlamp, you can just pull in the clutch (while in gear) and hit the e-start and it will crank.

Speed/ease of starting vs. safety - you decide.

Here's a thread with more discussion on the topic: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463508&highlight=clutch

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I took mine off . because I swapped out the levers . But I also put on a override switch , so to crank mine while it's in gear you have to push a button on both sides. I used my stock kill button for the override . my kill button now is in my headlight switch

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I've done it - so much for practising what I preach:busted: The reason for this is if you stall in gear, then with the stock set-up you have to first find neutral before the e-start will crank. With the connector shorted behind the headlamp, you can just pull in the clutch (while in gear) and hit the e-start and it will crank.

Speed/ease of starting vs. safety - you decide.

Here's a thread with more discussion on the topic: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463508&highlight=clutch

Isn't the purpose of the switch to allow the bike to be started in gear with the clutch in, but not with it out? Otherwise there'd be no need for a clutch switch, only a gear sensor.

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Yes, start in gear with clutch pulled in. Or start in neutral without pulling clutch in. Seems like a perfect factory setup.

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Isn't the purpose of the switch to allow the bike to be started in gear with the clutch in, but not with it out? Otherwise there'd be no need for a clutch switch, only a gear sensor.

That's correct if the bike is stock.

If you've changed out the clutch perch for an ASV (or similar), then the perch has no provision for the clutch switch. Therefore, if you just disconnected the switch/wire, then you would only be able to e-start the bike in neutral. Shorting the connector fools the bike into thinking the clutch is in all the time, so the e-start will crank whether the bike is in gear or not.

You get speed/convience but (arguably) at the expense of safety.

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