drz 400 s air intake snorkel. REMOVE?

I removed what i have heard referred to as the snorkel on my stock drz 400s air box. I think I feel a little more power and i have less popping on deceleration. My question is does this make the bike run more lean and if so is that hurting the bike. I ride around 100 feet above sea level.

Yes it will make the bike run leaner. Prolly not by much. Need to look up the 3x3 mod. do that and rejet would be your best bet.

Your 1/3 of the way there.

Removing the snorkel is one of three steps to making the stock DRZ S or SM run well. AT THE SAME TIME you remove the snorkel, you do the 3x3 mod and rejet the carb using a kit from James Dean or DynaJet. Go to the FAQ posted above, then = common thread reference- then master 3x3 thread.

The increase in intake noise can be significatly reduced by coverinng the inside of the airfilterbox with thermal insulation tape (I used armaflex).

Works great.

Welcome Hopson!

I am in your exact same boat, except that I've already ordered my rejet kit for the 3x3 mod - and as soon as I ordered, I yanked out the snorkel.

I'm a total rookie with all this, so I've read the instructions and related threads here a lot, maybe too much, finally convinced myself to do it -

So one last question for the pros here, which might convince you to do the mod too.

I hear you can do the whole rejet with the carb in the bike, but I'm going to take mine out - bad eyes + hammy hands = big chance of dropping and losing the little bits.

So with this subframe loosening - does it matter if the bike is on the kickstand, or do I need a proper stand?

Thanks!

I did mine on the kick stand. I also took out the carb. Being that it was my first time I wanted a better view of everything I was doing. I also had a big concern about dropping parts in place I could'nt get or find them. Having the carb in front of me on clean table with a place to sit was a big plus.

Welcome Hopson!

I am in your exact same boat, except that I've already ordered my rejet kit for the 3x3 mod - and as soon as I ordered, I yanked out the snorkel.

I'm a total rookie with all this, so I've read the instructions and related threads here a lot, maybe too much, finally convinced myself to do it -

So one last question for the pros here, which might convince you to do the mod too.

I hear you can do the whole rejet with the carb in the bike, but I'm going to take mine out - bad eyes + hammy hands = big chance of dropping and losing the little bits.

So with this subframe loosening - does it matter if the bike is on the kickstand, or do I need a proper stand?

Thanks!

No "sub frame loosening" required.

Remove the throttle cables.

Remove the TPS (electric connector on side of carb = 2 screws)

Remove the clamps that hold the boots to the carb.

Wrestle the carb out...kind of turn it out from the rear towards you.

Re-Jet and replace with instructions above in reverse.

3x3 = cut out 3"x3" of the top of the air box. Good way to do this is with a hot putty knife or similar to leave smooth/straight edges.

You bike will run much better after the re-jet and additional air....Have fun

awesome, thanks for the tip bonesnTX

anticipation = the shipping status page says 'delivered' but I'm at work and the mailguy hasn't been around yet. so I can't very well (cough, cough) go home sick yet to do the deed, now can I?

awesome, thanks for the tip bonesnTX

anticipation = the shipping status page says 'delivered' but I'm at work and the mailguy hasn't been around yet. so I can't very well (cough, cough) go home sick yet to do the deed, now can I?

I love seeing that "delivered" status

awesome, thanks for the tip bonesnTX

anticipation = the shipping status page says 'delivered' but I'm at work and the mailguy hasn't been around yet. so I can't very well (cough, cough) go home sick yet to do the deed, now can I?

I don't know. You don't look so good. Have you got a temperature? You should go home before whatever virus you have spreads to your computer.

thanks for the resonses guys that really helps

awesome, thanks for the tip bonesnTX

anticipation = the shipping status page says 'delivered' but I'm at work and the mailguy hasn't been around yet. so I can't very well (cough, cough) go home sick yet to do the deed, now can I?

Reminds me of a TT order I placed where it show the status as "shipment pending" for about a week.

Go fake a puke.gif, you'll be home in no time.

Happy wrenching.

Let me send out a tip here .

DO NOT cut a bigger hole than exactly 3x3 ///or 2x4.5 etc

This will create way more problems than you want when it comes to getting jetting help and you will be screwing around trying to figure out why everyones advice isn't working for you.

The only bigger mistake is thinking that suzuki knows best and a 3x3 and jetting isn't nessesary.

Done! :bonk:

Holy carp that was an epic battle, now I'm glad I didn't try to bail out of work and do it in an afternoon/evening. Started lat night, wrestled the carb out without too much trouble, put it on the bench to start fresh in the am.

jetting = easy cheesy. for my 2008 sm, I did the Eddie special:

155 MJ

23.5 PJ

Klientech 2.75 turns out

JD blue needle, clip in the 4th slot - which is my excuse to remove the potato from the stock pipe, right? Iif the wife balks at the noise I can tweak the Klientech screw to compensate, right?

Getting that sucker back in was the real test. I ended up loosening the frame anyway, and finally got it in after prolly 4 hours of struggle. I also removed the CA smog can thing along the way, but dang. Now I know why they say cut the hole first, before you're all frustrated and shaky from not eating enough, but I got the hole cut without melting or slicing any of the nearby wires.

I closed up, fired 'er up, and so far so good! once I get some grub in me, I'll try the road test, but judging by the sound and throttle response so far, I'm stoked. Shebaby roar!

Huge thanks to Eddie and all of you ThumperTalkers, I got all the info here.:lame:

when you say clip on the 4th slot what is that refering to

when you say clip on the 4th slot what is that refering to

That's referring to the carb needle. "Clip on the 4th slot" is referring to the location of the circlip on the needle. That means the 4th clot down from the top of the needle (big end).

right, what he said ^^

and note that that's the JD (James Dean) kit, there's also a DJ (Dynojet) kit, and I'm pretty sure the settings are different: 4th clip on a JD needle won't have the same effect as 4th clip on a DJ needle.

meanwhile, I took a little spin around the neighborhood, and found the bike snappier, but then it started stalling out at idle. actually, when i fired it up for the ride, it needed more choke than before and seemed to take longer to warm up. when i got home i gave the fuel screw a twist in it seemed like it was looser than I'd left it. tomorrow I'll tweak the idle and fuel screw and it'll be perfect. Right?

right, what he said ^^

and note that that's the JD (James Dean) kit, there's also a DJ (Dynojet) kit, and I'm pretty sure the settings are different: 4th clip on a JD needle won't have the same effect as 4th clip on a DJ needle.

meanwhile, I took a little spin around the neighborhood, and found the bike snappier, but then it started stalling out at idle. actually, when i fired it up for the ride, it needed more choke than before and seemed to take longer to warm up. when i got home i gave the fuel screw a twist in it seemed like it was looser than I'd left it. tomorrow I'll tweak the idle and fuel screw and it'll be perfect. Right?

Yeah, play with the idle and fuel screw until everything seems to be as good as it's gonna get......You still have the orig. washer and o-ring on the fuel screw right? (they keep the screw from backing out due to vibration).

Pretty sure I got everything off the original fuel screw, but now that I think about it, that was right after my drill bit snapped and the part that stayed in the drill slammed into my thumb, so I was a little distracted :lame:

I could see how one or both (idle, fuel) of those adjusters could have been moved during reinstallation of the carb - weird that it seemed to run so smoothly when I fired it up just to see if it'd start

So, Hopson, if your jet kit doesn't come with the 'special drill bit' for removing the stock fuel screw, don't be like me and use whatever crappy old bit you find in the garage - that really hurt

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