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358Bobby

setting up my 2007 for hare scrambles and enduro

21 posts in this topic

I have been riding a yzf 250 but I got a good deal on a left over yzf 450, 2007 and I am wondering what to do to it to make it more freindly in the woods. I ride some mx and enduro's but my main concern is taming this beast a little for woods riding. I put a flywheel weight on and am wondering what to do next.

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I race desert 1 or 2 times a year. With my 07 i put a slip on exhaust with spark arrestor on and raced it.

After the first race i tweaked all the problems i had.

Jetting was way off, the bike wouldn't start after i stalled. So i fixed that. Really played with the suspension and went to a suspension specialist to get my sag set, clicks set and was very happy with that.

Put on a desert tank when needed (200 mile races with 50 mile laps).

The only mod i didn't do but need to add is a steering stabalizer.

I suggest you race it then tweak it, not the other way around.

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I race desert 1 or 2 times a year. With my 07 i put a slip on exhaust with spark arrestor on and raced it.

Desert racing is a lot different than racing in the woods. The stock YZ suspension will beat the snot out of you in fast technical woods riding (i.e. LOTS of rocks and roots). I would consider revalving the suspension (the forks mostly) and depending on your weight, changing the springs.

As far as taming the engine you might want to consider a throttle tube that has replaceable cable cams like the ones offered by CV4 and Moose, and/or a dual map ignition from Vortex /MT Racing.

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An auto clutch and a smaller rear sprocket and/or bigger countershaft to soften the hit a little.

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Different gearing, larger tank, flywheel weight, spark arrester, soften up the susp. as possible, have fun. Mike

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Desert racing is a lot different than racing in the woods. The stock YZ suspension will beat the snot out of you in fast technical woods riding (i.e. LOTS of rocks and roots). I would consider revalving the suspension (the forks mostly) and depending on your weight, changing the springs.

As far as taming the engine you might want to consider a throttle tube that has replaceable cable cams like the ones offered by CV4 and Moose, and/or a dual map ignition from Vortex /MT Racing.

you missed the point totally... :excuseme:

of course it's different. i was using my example of how i determined how to tweak my bike to explain to him how to tweak his.

until you actually race your bike you really have no idea what you need.

setting your bike up blind off of ideas from the intraweb is not smart.

why would you go out spending hundreds of dollars on mods until you test your bike then address your problems.

that was the point i was trying to make, sorry if i fell short in my explanation.

l:thumbsup:

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you missed the point totally... :excuseme:

of course it's different. i was using my example of how i determined how to tweak my bike to explain to him how to tweak his.

until you actually race your bike you really have no idea what you need.

setting your bike up blind off of ideas from the intraweb is not smart.

why go out spending hundreds of dollars until you test your bike then address your problems.

l:thumbsup:

VERY WISE STATEMENTS...each of us is very diff at what we feel and in what we interpret the bike is doing, so go race it first and see how you do...all I've done is put a large tank on it and bark busters...when the suspension gets a little time on it ,the suspension works really well for off-road...have fun with your new bike:thumbsup:

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I have raced a few times and have made a few small adjustment. The biggest problem I am having is I have been riding a yzf 250 and jumped onto this beast. The suspension just doesn't feel as good to me, I realize that they are two differant animals and the best thing I can do is just spend more time riding and getting used to this new bike. I put a 51 tooth rear sprocket on today I hope that will help. I raced a harescramble last weekend and it was geared way to fast for my ability. Thanks for all your input it all helps in giving me ideas on which way to go with my choices.

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I have raced a few times and have made a few small adjustment. The biggest problem I am having is I have been riding a yzf 250 and jumped onto this beast. The suspension just doesn't feel as good to me, I realize that they are two differant animals and the best thing I can do is just spend more time riding and getting used to this new bike. I put a 51 tooth rear sprocket on today I hope that will help. I raced a harescramble last weekend and it was geared way to fast for my ability. Thanks for all your input it all helps in giving me ideas on which way to go with my choices.

Um... don't put a 51 tooth on unless you want the think to be more of a monster..try to use a 48 or if your racing open stuff try going to a 14 tooth counter shaft...it causes more of a load on the bike and also spaces the gears out a little and tames the hit a tad bit:thumbsup: ...that might help you...

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Um... don't put a 51 tooth on unless you want the think to be more of a monster..try to use a 48 or if your racing open stuff try going to a 14 tooth counter shaft...it causes more of a load on the bike and also spaces the gears out a little and tames the hit a tad bit:thumbsup: ...that might help you...
It also makes the engine/clutch even less manageable in tight sections. Throttle control with an '07 is simply not the problem it is on earlier bikes. While your point regarding load taming the engine some, you're correct, but it comes at an expense.

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Rekluse Pro - I only ride woods and it is amazing how much easy it makes everything. I have a 51 rear sprocket but I bought the bike (used) with it on so I have no basis for comparison. I also have a 9oz flywheel weight and revalved suspension. With all these mods, the 450 is an amazing woods machine. Obviously there is more power than needed but throttle control is all you need to keep it in check. With the Rekluse, I put it in 2nd and don't think about it again for single track.

I bought the bike with the suspension already revalved softer for woods so I cannot compare to stock, either.

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Um... don't put a 51 tooth on unless you want the think to be more of a monster..try to use a 48 or if your racing open stuff try going to a 14 tooth counter shaft...it causes more of a load on the bike and also spaces the gears out a little and tames the hit a tad bit:thumbsup: ...that might help you...

Trailsweep should be called TrailRailer!

I subscribe to this theory for the woods also. I run 13/48 in the tight stuff and 14/48 when it is more open. It smoothes things out, gives me a wider spread between gears, forces me to go faster in first gear, and gives the bike a little more top speed. Of course, I run a Rekluse Pro clutch though so that helps. :excuseme: For me, a 51 tooth would be too snappy and aggressive.

As far as suspension is concerned, I weigh 190-195lbs and have not felt the need to have the suspension revalved for woods. The '06+ KYB forks are incredible. Don't be afraid to run the comp. clickers ALL the way out for really tight woods. I would recommend using the Smart Performance 215.VM2.K5 oil.

Other than that, handguards and a skidplate.

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I have raced a few times and have made a few small adjustment. The biggest problem I am having is I have been riding a yzf 250 and jumped onto this beast. The suspension just doesn't feel as good to me, I realize that they are two differant animals and the best thing I can do is just spend more time riding and getting used to this new bike. I put a 51 tooth rear sprocket on today I hope that will help. I raced a harescramble last weekend and it was geared way to fast for my ability. Thanks for all your input it all helps in giving me ideas on which way to go with my choices.

i went from a 250f to a 450 a year ago. the biggest problem i had was stalling while engine breaking through technical sections that were really loamy.

i tried 14 / 49 and got killed in the technical, so i switched to a 13 / 48.

the other major issue was the weight difference. dropping the bike in technical areas was a problem. i am 5'10" 200 lbs.

it felt like i went from a BMX bike to a harley...

you have to realize how to use the power of the 450 to get through the tight spots. you can chug like a tractor in 1st or 2nd.

seat time is the only cure, just yesterday i rode a new track that was really tight and technical. had a blast, had i rode the same track 1 year ago i would have been cursing and screaming stalling and ready to go back to my 250f.

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Trailsweep should be called TrailRailer!

I subscribe to this theory for the woods also. I run 13/48 in the tight stuff and 14/48 when it is more open. It smoothes things out, gives me a wider spread between gears, forces me to go faster in first gear, and gives the bike a little more top speed. Of course, I run a Rekluse Pro clutch though so that helps. :excuseme: For me, a 51 tooth would be too snappy and aggressive.

As far as suspension is concerned, I weigh 190-195lbs and have not felt the need to have the suspension revalved for woods. The '06+ KYB forks are incredible. Don't be afraid to run the comp. clickers ALL the way out for really tight woods. I would recommend using the Smart Performance 215.VM2.K5 oil.

Other than that, handguards and a skidplate.

Thanks Wiz...forgot about that oil in the forks:bonk: ...going to have to try it

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It also makes the engine/clutch even less manageable in tight sections. Throttle control with an '07 is simply not the problem it is on earlier bikes. While your point regarding load taming the engine some, you're correct, but it comes at an expense.

Ah true..but that just seems to me a little trick he could try,it helped me but I do remember sometimes were it did get a little tricky in the tight stuff and stalled more ....could have been the prob?..thanks gray for pointing that one out:thumbsup:

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IMO the biggest issue with riding a 450 in the woods is their high-strung, stall-prone tendencies.

A heavy flywheel is the most important thing. I put a 9oz Steahly on mine, it helped a lot with stalling, and making the low end smoother. I got this one from a friend for super cheap, if I were to buy a new one, I probably would have gone a little heavier.

If I rode NOTHING but goat trails, I'd probably go up a couple teeth on the rear sprocket to slow 1st gear down a little. But for like 99% of the riding I do, the stock gearing is fine.

gray is right about using higher gearing to soften the power. Sure, it will "tame" the hit, but the stalling issues on tight trails will be even worse.

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Try a flywheel weight first. I used to run on on my yz250 (2t) and it really helped. That is also one of the biggest differences between the WR and YZ. Maybe see if you can pick up a stock '08 muffler or go with a FMF Q4 or some other quite muffler as they all will smooth out the power.

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im also going to be using my yzf 450 07, for h and hounds in austria next year,any one recomend a bigger fuel tank company.not sure whether to change the gearing as i done some fast forrest tracks and found it mad but managablemaybe i will change my mind when it bites.

alter

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Adding to the good input, I did the usual gearing change, took some oil out of the forks, tweaked the rear to make it a bit more plush and slapped on some bike protection along with a flywheel. It's all in knowing what the bike can and can't do with the big reminder that it's a motocross bike first and foremost. Give and take. What can the bike give me and how much abuse can I take at hour #4!

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I now have a Rekluse EXP core clutch on my 450 and I could take the flywheel off and up the gearing and still be able to ride tight woods and not stall, the thing is amazing and I won't be with out one again. I used to have my idle set way up and 2 fingers on the clutch constantly in the woods to keep it from stalling. I still use it in MX and helps me there also, can use the clutch like normal and doesn't feel any different than stock.

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