**New** Free Servo Sub Diagram

Link To Diagram

Ok I have had lots of requests for this to be better explained and also to have a better diagram, so : :thumbsup:

The Engine Control Module reads a POT in the servo motor that references its position to the exup valve that creates more or less backpressure in turn createing a leaner or richer situation in the chamber.

So the voltage reference of the servo assembly ranges from .5 to 4.5 volts, there are the two wires that control the motor position (blk/red and blk/grn 12v multiplied by time to reach position required)

Then there are the three wires for the POT

Blue = 5v in

Wht/red = Reference to ECM (.5 to 4.5v)

blk/blue = common/grnd/return ohm reference (7) can slightly vary (7.5)

When you first turn your key on the servo motor sweeps (meaning it goes from-to each stop) You have to be able to replicate the movement of the servo, in real time

so my design has a Half valve closed reading (2.5v) at lowest, letting the bike stay a little richer than stock(at least acording to the valve position), and when it recieves a signal to close or open it gives it a 4v reading to tell the computer that infact it is adjusting and not in a "stuck position" (singal voltage reading out to ref. wht/red)

Here is what the finished product should look like :

SimpleDiagram.jpg

ServoSub080.jpg

For those of you not up for the DIY

I have the integrator versions ready and stock piled ready to ship out for any of you that may want one.

Here is the updated procedure and what not, this one got lost in the threads.

Any performance gain to this? Or is it strictly a weight loss thing...

I have no hard facts to prove that it does, but I believe it should in theory, otherwise its just to be able to remove the entire exup system without throwing any DTC's. I have not determined wether the actual exup position changed the fuel curve, but I would be willing to bet that it should, because the increase or decrease of backpressure should indicate a lean or rich readings to the ecm and it should adjust accordingly so.

Just speculation though, I have not compiled any truth to this, although my dyno results have been higher than most with similar mods and no sub.......so IDK........

And the trouble codes indicate that its part of the ecm's vital functions, not to say for sure that its related to fuel delivery, but I think it is somewhat

Steveakus: I built your original design using only 10K and 3.3K resistors.

Anything wrong with that original design or is it still okay even though it uses a few more resistors?

I have it all plugged in but now need to clear the code. I just read in the service manual that you need to delete the fault from memory before it will clear which I see involves what they call executing the "diagnostic monitoring

mode. (Code No.53)" According to the manual you enter diagnostic mode by unplugging the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump and pushing a series of buttons. I am going to give that a shot tomorrow.

FYI, you dont really have to unplug the fuel pump, and in my manual it says to enter diag mode and then go to # 62 and turn on the kill switch to clear.

Thanks! I will try that first. I really didn't want to have to tear off the tank again. I will be so happy if that dang little light goes away. :busted:

the light should go out immediately after putting the sub on.....

You will only have to enter diag to clear history, I think the light will only stay on with current fault codes.........

Yeah! :busted::moon::p

Thanks to you and your handy diagram Steveakus I now have no check engine light. I didn't have to go into diagnostic mode but it did take a few minutes for the light to clear. Here are pictures of my circuit I built based on your diagrams: http://www.solidfull.com/yamaha/servo_sub.html

Super thanks Steve! I attached your unit and I swear (under oath) my bike runs "even better". I'd have to put it on the dyno to prove it. But enough of that...you know how that's gone before over here at TT.

I purchased the "pre-made Servo Sub". Superb workmanship, and piece of cake to solder on wire by wire following your simple instruction sheet to match wire colors correctly. I did not have any Engine Lights flag. Performed flawlessly on the 2nd Annual Winter Dualsport Ride From Hell (3 days in the bush, sleeping on the ground, 250 miles of rugged wilderness goat trail, packed like a mule). Check it out: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8855698#post8855698

Coolest thing was this: we made about a 6 mile run down the blacktop. With heavy gear, I pulled away from the pack of big loaded DS bikes, easily busting 100mph indicated (tucked in tight). Previously, 100 mph was my best result WITHOUT ANY gear loaded (i.e. full Dirtbagz, Dryseal bag on tail, and Wolfman Tankbag stuffed like a Xmas Turkey!). This was 3 days camping on the ground in the "teens".....that's 15 degrees for you Yankees! Not to mention my extra layers of clothing. So, you know I was packing a load.

Just saying....this little devise is REALLY worth it. Get it on NOW!

HF :thumbsup:

Yeah! :lol::p:moon:

Thanks to you and your handy diagram Steveakus I now have no check engine light. I didn't have to go into diagnostic mode but it did take a few minutes for the light to clear. Here are pictures of my circuit I built based on your diagrams: http://www.solidfull.com/yamaha/servo_sub.html

That's very clear-cut and well-imaged... thanks :thumbsup:

Super thanks Steve! I attached your unit and I swear (under oath) my bike runs "even better". I'd have to put it on the dyno to prove it. But enough of that...you know how that's gone before over here at TT.

I purchased the "pre-made Servo Sub". Superb workmanship, and piece of cake to solder on wire by wire following your simple instruction sheet to match wire colors correctly. I did not have any Engine Lights flag. Performed flawlessly on the 2nd Annual Winter Dualsport Ride From Hell (3 days in the bush, sleeping on the ground, 250 miles of rugged wilderness goat trail, packed like a mule). Check it out: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8855698#post8855698

Coolest thing was this: we made about a 6 mile run down the blacktop. With heavy gear, I pulled away from the pack of big loaded DS bikes, easily busting 100mph indicated (tucked in tight). Previously, 100 mph was my best result WITHOUT ANY gear loaded (i.e. full Dirtbagz, Dryseal bag on tail, and Wolfman Tankbag stuffed like a Xmas Turkey!). This was 3 days camping on the ground in the "teens".....that's 15 degrees for you Yankees! Not to mention my extra layers of clothing. So, you know I was packing a load.

Just saying....this little devise is REALLY worth it. Get it on NOW!

HF :thumbsup:

I thought it added power, but I didnt want to be biased, I love your feedback and Im so happy that your happy...........:p

Super thanks Steve! I attached your unit and I swear (under oath) my bike runs "even better". I'd have to put it on the dyno to prove it. But enough of that...you know how that's gone before over here at TT.

I purchased the "pre-made Servo Sub". Superb workmanship, and piece of cake to solder on wire by wire following your simple instruction sheet to match wire colors correctly. I did not have any Engine Lights flag. Performed flawlessly on the 2nd Annual Winter Dualsport Ride From Hell (3 days in the bush, sleeping on the ground, 250 miles of rugged wilderness goat trail, packed like a mule). Check it out: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8855698#post8855698

Coolest thing was this: we made about a 6 mile run down the blacktop. With heavy gear, I pulled away from the pack of big loaded DS bikes, easily busting 100mph indicated (tucked in tight). Previously, 100 mph was my best result WITHOUT ANY gear loaded (i.e. full Dirtbagz, Dryseal bag on tail, and Wolfman Tankbag stuffed like a Xmas Turkey!). This was 3 days camping on the ground in the "teens".....that's 15 degrees for you Yankees! Not to mention my extra layers of clothing. So, you know I was packing a load.

Just saying....this little devise is REALLY worth it. Get it on NOW!

HF :banana:

A little mini power booster. Not to mention your bike lost another 1lb.

More weight than Ive lost this week.:lol:

I like Steves new design too. Its SMALL.:lol:

Super thanks Steve! I attached your unit and I swear (under oath) my bike runs "even better".

[...]

Just saying....this little devise is REALLY worth it. Get it on NOW!

A little mini power booster.

I don't get it - I don't think you guys get a commission. I also don't think it makes one bit of difference in engine output. Somebody please explain it to me.:banana:

Well Im still investigating the actual facts to this, but what I can see is that the ECM is in fact refrencng the position of the EXUP valve, now aside from diagnostics and trouble codes, why would it need to know its exact positions other than to make an exact adjustment........ I know it would need to know that it sweeps on initial key turn to test the servo and make sure its not stuck, so if it does a diagnostic on key turn, why would it be constantly monitored while riding.

My speculation and understanding is that the EXUP valve is basically creating a "shorter or longer" header by shutting off or opening up, now in a carb'd engine this may not need any other adjustment and it would naturally go lean or rich, but maybe the EFI needs to make subtle changes to compensate for these differences.

That is what I based my servo sub design on and tried to optimise its positions being referenced, by limiting the voltage returns with my voltage dividers and diodes.

Hope this helps, :banana:

Beats me...?? Just seems to pull harder up top. Maybe it causes the bike to lean out just a bit on the top end. I dunno. I was surprised to notice any difference at all. I did. And, I wasn't expecting that.

I don't know Steveakus personally. Never dealt with him on anything before. Got no strings attached. Just a happy rider who is very glad I bought his little thingymajig.

Don't care if anybody else buys one from him or not. Heck, you can have it for pennies, if you can follow his diagram and make one yourself. I wasn't so energetic.

At the very least, its a perfect replacement for the Servo Motor. I love throwing useless heavy parts in the trash!

HF :banana:

I don't get it - I don't think you guys get a commission. I also don't think it makes one bit of difference in engine output. Somebody please explain it to me.:lol:

No commissions here, :lol:

and I offered the same exact thing I use to everyone for free. :banana:

some would rather just pull it out of thier mailbox and plug it in I guess.....

The integrator version is now finally worked out the overheating Capacitor issue, and I used fire proof resistors and caps on it. It is a way more in depth diagram and I think I dare not publish it as it would totally confuse even semi advanced DIY'ers..........If you really want the diag for it just pm me.......

Are you going to be seeling these new updated ones instead of the ones you have been making, Steve? Any difference in price?

Are you going to be seeling these new updated ones instead of the ones you have been making, Steve? Any difference in price?

Yes I will, and no there isnt a price difference, the only difference is that one you can DIY for nearly free, and the other is rather complicated and should be longer lasting, although I havent had any issues from any of the original designs, so there is really not much reason to switch, Anyone that has a prefered version I will be glad to make an original or updated version for them. The new ones are slightly smaller too.

for me it was a learning experience of something I just had to figure out........

And honestly the original design was more simple and a little cheaper to make, but I am not going to change anything, mainly all Im charging for is my time and efforts in figuring it out specifically for our bikes , the components are mearly a dollar or two.

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