Master link removal

So I have this nice O-ring chain with a clip style master link. I had to press the outer plate on. Now, the question is, how do I get it off and be able to re-use the link? The last time I removed the chain, I bent the outer plate trying to pry it off, and I ended up using my breaker and buying a new master link. I thought the point of the clip style links was for ease of removal and such.

My dad has these special plyers that he uses, i can't remember the name of them, but im sure a flat screwdriver and a hammer will work?

flat screwdriver

and wear safety glasses because sometimes it flys off a bit

WD 40 or such, soak well.

I use Long Nose Pliers. Put one point on the rivet and the other on the point on the end of the clip (where it splits). Soak in WD 40 if needed. look in the TT store for master link pliers. They do a much better job.

Anyone have a problem with clip-type masters? I just installed a professional DID o-ring chain on my yz and I was reading the warning on the master link packaging:

clip type connecting link has less strength than rivet type connecting link. Endless links or rivet type links are recommended at any time for o-ring chains.

I'm pissed, why didn't they supply me with one? On denniskirk it says what part number it is for the rivet, but they don't have it even listed. I am heated- now I have to order one and wait for it to come it. I will deal with the clip type, but the lack of strength scares me.

Any help is appreciated!

I get what your saying ubu. The clip isn't the problem. It's removing the plate once the clip is gone. I've got a problem with this too. I really don't want to use my chain breaker tool to destroy the master link either, but I'm not seeing alternatives here.

I've used conventional master links on "O" ring chains since they first became available without any problems. In the absence of others posting problems with the master link supplied with "O" ring chains I wouldn't worry.

If I was still racing I might be a little more critical in my selection of master links.

I get what your saying ubu. The clip isn't the problem. It's removing the plate once the clip is gone. I've got a problem with this too. I really don't want to use my chain breaker tool to destroy the master link either, but I'm not seeing alternatives here.

so how did you do it? once I got the clip off my masterlink, it looks like the pins are actually bigger than the hole they came through?? this would require a chainbreaker, correct? I did not put this chain on and am wondering how it actually gets installed? Do I need to get a new masterlink?

year and a half old thread revived:ride:

I still haven't figured it out completely:busted: But last time I was able to pry the plate off with a screwdriver. It went flying and I lost an o-ring. I got a new o-ring and installed the link using channel-lock pilers. The first install, I used my chain breaker as a press by backing the pin out and using the outer clamp side of the breaker to squeeze it on.

I use a chain breaker, a little at a time. Takes a few extra minutes to get the link off, but doesn't damage it. Goes back on with pliers and patience.

Not sure if this has been suggested before but it was taught to me this way and i have never had an issue.

When you work with the link or joining a chain etc always wrap it half/half around the rear sprocket. In other words, the join in the chain should always meet half way around the rear sprocket. This ensures there is little tension on the link you are working with. This makes all the work on removing and adding the link easy.

If the link plate is tight then use a flat screw driver that is just wider than the two lobes of the chain so that it pushes the link plate off both links equally. This does not damage the plate.

If there is no link in the chain as most factory bikes are then when you grind off the link also ensure you grind off the link that is halfway around the rear sprocket.

If you are going to run sealed chains, you really should invest in a proper chain press with the riveting and pin removal attachments. Screwing around with the wrong tools can cost you big bucks when the chain flies off and takes out your engine cases.

If you are going to run sealed chains, you really should invest in a proper chain press with the riveting and pin removal attachments. Screwing around with the wrong tools can cost you big bucks when the chain flies off and takes out your engine cases.

+1. I would be very cautious about re-using masterlinks for the exact same reason. But then I've never had a chain break in nearly thirty years of riding bikes (although there's a first time for everything).:thumbsup:

When I have to remove a chain it's nature's way of telling me that it's time to drop the swingarm and regrease the pivot and linkage bearings. I never bother splitting a chain - if I'm simply changing gearing there's enough room on my bike to wriggle the front sprocket off once the chain is slackened. Assembling the masterlink on a new chain is easier with the chain on the bench than on the bike too, but then I'm getting too old for scrabbling around on the workshop floor anyway. :lol:

I never use a master.I buy the chain longer than I need,and use a regular link.I press it back together and peen it over slightly.Much stronger than a master and always available.

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