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426 Running HOT! Any Advise.


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My 2002 WR426 runs hot. I'm not sure if this is normal but I don't think so. I can't ride a slow trail in 1st for too long or it will boil over after a few minutes (80'F air temp. for 5 min). With higher speed riding it will stay around 190-210'F.

I recently replaced coolant with Engine Ice and I don't see a noticable difference.

My left radiator is tweaked a bit with maybe 3 or 4 rows of fins squished out of 12 total but no leaks. Would this have a large enough impact?

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A little radiator tweak that size wont hurt you. You should check your Radiator cap and make sure it is sealing. If it isn’t then the water will boil over a lot sooner. Also check your carb and be sure that it isn’t dirty or running lean. Check air fuel mixture screw and jets.

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yah perhaps a new cap would be a good thing if its boiling below 265-275 deg F which is approaching max for a pressurized system that has a good cap, before boiling out coolant. What are you using to monitor the temp? I have a Vapor and they claim it is accurate. On a hot day (90+), mine runs 175-200 going 25-40 mph but heats up quick doing 1st gear for over a minute or two. I hit 240 last time out doing 10 mph technical stuff, so I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it cool down. However I have a 3.2 gallon IMS tank on it so that doesn't allow as good of cooling behind the radiator. These buggers sure need air flow through the rads!

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The previous owner put in 170 main, the needle clip at 3, and a 42 pilot. I think, only because I found his notes in the manual. I also just found that the pilot screw is MISSING! I ride at 2000 ft with mild temps 70-80'F. THanks for any advise.

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The pilot screw is a fuel screw (meaning the farther out it is the richer the mixture) so I'm not 100% sure what would happen if it was missing but i would think it would suck air and cause a lean condition. I guess there is a chance it could cause a rich condition too and this too can make a bike run hot. Have you taken it on a good run and pulled the plug to read it?

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I haven't pulled the plug to do a color check. I should it's just a pain from what I can tell with the Clark aftermarket tank hanging in the way.

The header pipe isn't in contact with the rad but it is in close proximatey by design.

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I got the new pilot fuel screw, Moose Zypty Screw complete set with oring, spring and washer. I installed it on Saturday and rode 70+ miles of trails yesterday. MUCH MUCH better. I didn't over heat once even on the tight technical stuff. It does still run a bit hot but nothing like before.

I'm thinking it must have been suckin air by the missing screw causing a lean/hot condition.

Thanks everyone for your awesome feedback.

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