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bgoetz

WR 400

5 posts in this topic

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Hello,

I have a question regarding the WR400 (1998) verse a 99 or newer. Were there any major modifications on the 99 compaired to the 98, and is it a good idea to purchase a 98? I heard they are hard to start, especially if they go down. Also, what typically is a fair price for a 98, that, lets say is in good condition? or lets say in good condition with some money into it, say shocks, bars etc.? Also I was also told there is a number or letter in the VIN number on the newer WR's that make it impossible to make street legal, is this true? what year was that if so, I would appreciate any good info

Thanks Bruce

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Were there any major modifications on the 99 compaired to the 98?

the clutch hub was beefed up.

I heard they are hard to start, especially if they go down

this rumor has been flying around because it takes a SPECIFIC procedure to start. Is it hard to start? NOT AT ALL.

...is a fair price for a 98, that, lets say is in good condition? or lets say in good condition with some money into it, say shocks, bars etc.?

maybe $3K, maybe. As far as bars, that is just chicken crap. You mention SHOCKS...? A shock like an OHLINS shock or a re-valve on the OEM unit. 2 COMPLETELY DIFFERENT animals. A re-valve is neat, BUT, it is SPECIFIC for the owner. If the owner is 230 and you weigh 160, it is a waste. You may need to have it re-valved and re-sprung for you. This will be BOTH the FRONT END and BACK END. Look at > $400.00 for this service

Also I was also told there is a number or letter in the VIN number on the newer WR's that make it impossible to make street legal, is this true? what year was that if so, I would appreciate any good info.

Can't help you here.

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The street-legal conversion difficulties range from non-existant to very difficult depending on where you live. At this point, the smartest thing you could do is to buy one already street-legal. There are many out there...and an added benefit is that dual-sported bikes often (and I will take flak for this statement :)) have not been subjected to as much hard off-road use. Welcome to TT.

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I have a 98 and it still runs great with nothing more than routine maintenance (oil changes, valve adjustments, filter service, etc). I managed to put about 3000 hard miles on it in 2002 with no major problems. It still only takes 1 or 2 kicks to get it going no matter what the conditions are. Even though I haven't had any significant failures with my 98, I would get a 99 if I were you. There are enough refinements to make it worthwhile. Aside from the clutch differences Kevin mentioned, here is a list of other changes between the two that I can think of:

1) Excel rims

2) Larger rear brake rotor 220mm to 240mm

3) Slightly larger diameter rear axle 20mm to 22mm

4) Rear hub has less weight (rear sprocket bolt pattern between 98 & 99 are different)

5) Slightly lighter swing arm

6) More durable kick-starter

7) Improved water pump impeller shaft and seal configuration

8) Mysterious external boss in 98 right case (for auto decompression assy or electric start?) was removed

9) Valve springs slightly longer with a slightly reduced spring coefficient

10) Carb has reworked low speed passages for improved starting and throttle response

11) Hot start button is red (wow!)

12) Seat base plastic slightly thicker

13) Foot peg mounts relocated

14) Shock lengthened by about 5mm, and revalved

As far as the VIN and street registration goes, it depends on you state laws. In the peoples republic of Kalifornia, 98 and 99 WRs are the only year models that are green sticker bikes (no "3" or "C" in eighth digit of the VIN) and thus dual sport-able.

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8) Mysterious external boss in 98 right case (for auto decompression assy or electric start?) was removed

hmmmm, makes one wonder if an e-start had originally been in the works and if the new 450's is a revival of it...? Could it be possible that the new 450's will retrofit to '98 case...?

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