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willy_fitz

How much Saki do Yamaha Engineers drink?

44 posts in this topic

Having just finished the wonderfully masochistic exercise of changing jetting on my new 08 WR450F and changing the plug I have to ask the following.

When Yamaha builds the bike do they start with the carb and plug on the assembly line and then build the rest of the bike around it?

When the engineers had the afternoon meeting to discuss maintenance access on this bike just how much Saki was consumed at lunch?

If I have a carb issue or plug issue on the trail should I now carry a shovel and just bury the bike?

Does this sound like a rant? :thumbsup:

Just wondering :thumbsup:

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its trouble only few first times, later u will be dont warry and dont spend so many times for carb working hehe

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It's not just Yamaha , the rest are the same - they'll be going to FI soon enough - that's probably why they're not going to change the design.

The choke on a kawi is in a place where you have to get a 5 year old to reach it because any other sized finger won't fit through to it.....

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its meant to be put together fast not taken apart . just like a car .

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the steel frame bikes are easy to pull carb (10 min on and off) but the 07+ are a bit of a pain...i found it easiest to pull the seat and pull the lower sub frame bolts and then flip the airbox and sub frame off the carb...but that also requires removing the rear shock but thats only two bolts!

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Even an alloy framed bike, the job takes 20 minutes at most to pull the carb, Only reason to pull is to clean or swap a leak jet (even this can be done on bike, just a pain) or some sort of other one time job. I only pull a carb when an eorro can be a nightmare, like dropping some small screw or spring and not finding it. Pulling the carb and placing it on a white towel on the bech is worth the time Vs. potential headaches. Main, pliot and needle changes are a two minute on the bike job.

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If I have a carb issue or plug issue on the trail should I now carry a shovel and just bury the bike?

Does this sound like a rant? :thumbsup:

Just wondering :thumbsup:

Yup, sounds like a rant but it made me chuckle :thumbsup:

Cos I've got an 05

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It really wasn't that bad. It just bugs me that doing the same job on my 03 WR450F was so simple. Like you say it shouldn't happen that often (fortunately). I used to work on nuclear reactors and they also have equipment that needs to maintained that are placed in the dumbest locations.

I used to grab the design engineer and show him / her what they had done and then ask them if they practise being stupid when they where home.:thumbsup:

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Even an alloy framed bike, the job takes 20 minutes at most to pull the carb, Only reason to pull is to clean or swap a leak jet (even this can be done on bike, just a pain) or some sort of other one time job. I only pull a carb when an eorro can be a nightmare, like dropping some small screw or spring and not finding it. Pulling the carb and placing it on a white towel on the bech is worth the time Vs. potential headaches. Main, pliot and needle changes are a two minute on the bike job.

Let me see if I remember this correctly -

- Seat / Tank

- Rear Shock

- Subframe / Air Box (including coolant over flow and wiring harness)

- Hot Start

- Throttle Cables

- There may be a few more things like drinking beer throughout the process... It's all blur to me now.

William, if you can do it 20 minutes you are a god my friend :thumbsup:

And how the hell do you change a pilot in two minutes :thumbsup: Remember we are WR owners and there is that nasty little thing called a starter in the way.

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Carb access is one thing, but I'm curious to know where exactly you would put the spark plug in a 5 or 4 valve engine with dual overhead cams so that it could be accessed "easily"?

Maybe cast a tunnel vertically through the gas tank?

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Grey - that's not rocket science either (making the sparky accessible) it seems that Husqvarna doesn't have a problem doing it right....

husqvarna-te-450-1.jpg

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Let me see if I remember this correctly -

- Seat / Tank

- Rear Shock

- Subframe / Air Box (including coolant over flow and wiring harness)

- Hot Start

- Throttle Cables

- There may be a few more things like drinking beer throughout the process... It's all blur to me now.

William, if you can do it 20 minutes you are a god my friend :thumbsup:

And how the hell do you change a pilot in two minutes :thumbsup: Remember we are WR owners and there is that nasty little thing called a starter in the way.

The exact right tools make a huge difference. I do not remove teh coolant lines or wires, plenty of slack to just leave it all attached and move it aside. I leave the shoruds attached to the radiators too. You forgot, also have to pull the muffler and disconnect the TPS. I do not drink when I work, as I F'up instead.

Sadly, I have do this a few more times that I care too and like Pavlov's dog, I learned and got better at it each time. Woof.

Pilot, main and emulsion tube come right out with a Motion Pro 90 degree tool. Hardest part is drain the float bowl and dealing with a little fuel spillage.

Needle, a 3mm and a 4mm ball end driver, long nosed needle nose pliers.

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Maybe it's just me....

The last time I changed the spark plug in my '06 was when I was already doing a valve check, and then I only changed it because I got a good deal on some NGK iridiums. I changed the plug in my son's '06 when I was doing a valve check on it (because it hadn't had one in 6 or 7 months), and because the plug was a year and a half old, so I thought it should maybe have a new one, and because I got the aforementioned deal on the iridium plugs. It looked nearly new.

Before that, I think I changed the plug in my '03 once during the 3+ years I had it, just because, well, your'e supposed to replace them, right?

I have a hard time getting worked up about all the labor involved. :thumbsup:

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The exact right tools make a huge difference. .

agree.

the first time is always an adventure, but with practice and the right tools things go much quicker.

I bought 10 and 8 MM socket T handles to speed up shroud removal.. And leaving the shrouds on the tank speeds thing up too.. But, I always take off the top motor mount when I’m messing with the needle adjustment. That seems to take me 5 min extra.

I still have the AIS and that kind of slows me down a lot on valve checks.

20 min seems overly optimistic. But I’d agree that everything fits so well, that if you have a plan and the tools everything is pretty easy.

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Speaking of the exact right tools, for you guys who bought your bikes new, did you ever figure out what the 4" rod with an eye bent on one end and a little bit of tubing on the other was for?

(it lifts the needle out of the slide) :thumbsup:

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Speaking of the exact right tools, for you guys who bought your bikes new, did you ever figure out what the 4" rod with an eye bent on one end and a little bit of tubing on the other was for?

(it lifts the needle out of the slide) :thumbsup:

hmmm... I'm gonna break out that manilla envelop and see if I got that one... I don't remeber seeing it:excuseme:

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hmmm... I'm gonna break out that manilla envelop and see if I got that one... I don't remeber seeing it:excuseme:

I only remember getting a spoke wrench and a spark plug wrench. But a needle removal tool would be rad..

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Add the gas tank to the list, as the petcock is 3 inches higher than the gas in the tank! How hard would it be to fix this problem?

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