426 oil change/filter clean

I just changed the oil on my 426, and had a couple of questions. First, I cleaned the oil filter with hot water and a toothbrush. I read thumperfaq and it said to use aerosol brake cleaner but I had none. Is this ok? Next, the oil filter drainbolt when i tightened it back up to spec, it didnt quite make it but kept turning around and around. Is it f:censored:ed? I undid it and tightened it back up and it does the same thing. I put in 1.3 L of oil in hoping to add the last little bit in bit by bit until its between the marks on the dip stick. I measured it and its way above the line. Is it just settling? should I add the other .1L anyways? or should I wait an hour and checkk it again?

Thanks guys

I just changed the oil on my 426, and had a couple of questions. First, I cleaned the oil filter with hot water and a toothbrush. I read thumperfaq and it said to use aerosol brake cleaner but I had none. Is this ok?
You should be ok but why not just replace it?
it didnt quite make it but kept turning around and around. Is it fed?
Not good. you will need to look into an over sized or self tapping replacement.
or should I wait an hour and checkk it again?
After adding the oil you need to run it for a min or two, shut it off and let it sit a min and then check it. Never trust the reading if it has been sitting.
I just changed the oil on my 426, and had a couple of questions. First, I cleaned the oil filter with hot water and a toothbrush. I read thumperfaq and it said to use aerosol brake cleaner but I had none. Is this ok? Next, the oil filter drainbolt when i tightened it back up to spec, it didnt quite make it but kept turning around and around. Is it f:censored:ed? I undid it and tightened it back up and it does the same thing. I put in 1.3 L of oil in hoping to add the last little bit in bit by bit until its between the marks on the dip stick. I measured it and its way above the line. Is it just settling? should I add the other .1L anyways? or should I wait an hour and checkk it again?

Thanks guys

On the oil filter: If it is a brass mesh screen, you should not clean it. They are too delicate for that. In fact, you should not use it, because those filters only stop debris larger than 70-80 microns. Paper filters can not be cleaned, either, but are a far better choice as far as filtration goes. The filter for an '03 up YZ/WR450 fits. Better still is the Scotts stainless reusable solution. Read:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4676297#post4676297

On the lower bolt: Yes, it needs repair. It's trashed because it gathers debris filtered out of the oil, and that grinds up the threads over time. This can be repaired in place by using a Time Sert. Heli-Coils are not practical for this particular hole unless the case is removed, and the insert put in from the back. Even then, the Time Sert is a better repair.

All of this can be prevented by doing this simple mod:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

About the oil level: Did you drain both the frame AND the crankcase, or only one or the other? Both must be drained to correctly do an oil change. When both are drained and the filter serviced, a 426 should take just over 1.5 qts to refill it. Drain, fill, and run the engine for one minute. Wait 30 seconds and check the level by inserting (not threading) the dip stick. Add as necessary.

what can happen if I ignore the oilfilter case drainbolt? Its not leaking or anything

Oh, yes it is, or soon will be. Since the drain passage feeds into those threads, and since the filter well is under pump pressure, you may be loosing oil pressure and not realize it. You may develop a leak on a ride and not notice it until half your oil is gone. You may lose the engine because you didn't suck it up and make this simple repair.

It's up to you, of course.

so...what do I do? do I have to order the time-sert?

You'll have to find a source for them. See the web site to locate a distributor.

theres none close to me

well I started up my bike and the drain plug is leaking.......

Why arent heli-coils workable?

Heli-Coils require that you be able to push the inserting tool up against the face of the hole, which is not possible with a counter bored hole like this. Also, the drive tang of the coil must be broken off and recovered. For these reasons, when using a Heli-Coil, the whole right side cover must come off, and the coil inserted from the back side.

On the oil filter : If it is a brass mesh screen, you should not clean it. They are too delicate for that. In fact, you should not use it, because those filters only stop debris larger than 70-80 microns. Paper filters can not be cleaned, either, but are a far better choice as far as filtration goes. The filter for an '03 up YZ/WR450 fits. Better still is the Scotts stainless reusable solution. Read:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4676297#post4676297

On the lower bolt: Yes, it needs repair. It's trashed because it gathers debris filtered out of the oil, and that grinds up the threads over time. This can be repaired in place by using a Time Sert. Heli-Coils are not practical for this particular hole unless the case is removed, and the insert put in from the back. Even then, the Time Sert is a better repair.

All of this can be prevented by doing this simple mod:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

About the oil level: Did you drain both the frame AND the crankcase, or only one or the other? Both must be drained to correctly do an oil change. When both are drained and the filter serviced, a 426 should take just over 1.5 qts to refill it. Drain, fill, and run the engine for one minute. Wait 30 seconds and check the level by inserting (not threading) the dip stick. Add as necessary.

don't they take about 1.7 qt. with oil and filter change?

Yes, they do, thus, start it out with 1.5, run it up, and top it off as necessary.

Thanks for the clarification.

My 02 manual says 1.4 with filter change :thumbsup:

It actually says 1.4L, which is about 1.5 qt. The difference is likely due to something in the way the frame is configured. Either way, if you start with 1.4 to 1.5 qts, run the engine and check it. The nice thing about all '02 and earlier models is that once you've run up the engine after and oil change, you can simply add to the tank and check it with the dip stick without having to run it again in between.

Next, the oil filter drainbolt when i tightened it back up to spec, it didnt quite make it but kept turning around and around.

Did you use a long handle CHEAP torque wrench by chance with a red needle and scale in the back ground???

Like this one??

torque.jpg

If you did, I'll bet you ended up putting considerably more torque on the drain plug bolt then you wanted / intended and stripped it. A good/expensive torque wrench is a nice thing to have but those cheap ones with the Micky Mouse needle/gage system are great for stripping nuts and bolts and nothing else. A pair of vice grips will do less damage (not that I am advocating removing drain plugs with vice grips...)

yup it looks like that and its old as ****

Flex beam torque wrenches are fine, but in the first place, they are not very accurate in the lowest 10% or so of their range, so if you are going to use one here, it should be a 0 to 120-150 inch pound wrench.

Clickers have similar limitations, which is why many of them have a lower limit they can be set to.

But they truth is that you should be able to tighten the cover bolts by hand and know whether they are too loose or too tight.

But don't feel bad. The lower bolt on the oil filter cover fails because of the design of the thing. That bolt is used to drain the oil filter well, and the debris that inevitably settles in the threads destroys them over time. You can, however, prevent this:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634724

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