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2fastRR

Put the Power Commander on the 250X

86 posts in this topic

Well, I talked a bit about the Power Commander for the WR250 R-X and that I thought it would really help things.

I'm not going to do a full install guide or anything here since Dynojet sends really nce instructions with the unit (or download from their site) but I'll hit a couple high points..

Coming from a sport bike I'm not happy about mounting the PC under the headlight in the open, seems like a high tech gadget should be more protected than that. Routing the wires is a bit of a challenge as well. Otherwise it's a straight forward operation.

For now I just used the map they sent with the unit, it's what Dynojet recommends for a mostly stock WR and should prove to be a good starting point. Riding the bike there is marked difference in ridability. For lack of a better term everyhting is just smoother. Power delivery is now continious and strong, power just flows from the wrist. You wont believe just how choppy the bike is stock until you try the PC equipped one.

I'll answer any questions you guys have but it's getting late.

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thanks for the write-up...

so the PC stays together with the stock?

Yeah, it pligs in line with the fuel injector and throttle position sensor. Everything else stays where it is.

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hmm... sounds like unless we remove some chunks under the seat, there is really not much space for the PC....

have you removed the AIS from the left? I figure if that chunk is removed, you could place the PC on the frame on the left covered by the shroud....

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... Power delivery is now continious and strong, power just flows from the wrist. You wont believe just how choppy the bike is stock until you try the PC equipped one...

Most annoying thing about my X is the fuel injection snatch right at the hairline between on/off throttle, very evident crawling 1st or 2nd gear. Sounds like the PC solves that?

Do you think the PC is easily removed, with little evidence of its existence, if making a warranty claim? Do you think a shop would void warranty because of a PC?

I want one!

Oh yeah, let us know how your gas mileage changes. Don't mind the extra cost, but stopping for gas every 90mls is already bad enough.

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hmm... sounds like unless we remove some chunks under the seat, there is really not much space for the PC....

have you removed the AIS from the left? I figure if that chunk is removed, you could place the PC on the frame on the left covered by the shroud....

I ddin't do a lot off looking for another place to mount it, I guess the up side of putting it under the headlight is the fact that I can plug into it to change maps without removing any plastic.
Where did you end up buying the unit and how much was it?
I got mine from the dealership I work at, paid right at $300 for it. There isn't a lot of markup in them so the prices will be really close to the $300 mark wherever you go.
Most annoying thing about my X is the fuel injection snatch right at the hairline between on/off throttle, very evident crawling 1st or 2nd gear. Sounds like the PC solves that?

Do you think the PC is easily removed, with little evidence of its existence, if making a warranty claim? Do you think a shop would void warranty because of a PC?

I want one!

Oh yeah, let us know how your gas mileage changes. Don't mind the extra cost, but stopping for gas every 90mls is already bad enough.

Along with proper chain tension the PC does definitely help with the abrupt on/off throttle transition.

It's fairly easily removed (about the same 20 min it takes to install) and there would be no way of knowing one was there. I haven't heard of a shop voiding the warranty for a power commander but I guess it could happen since it does change how a bike fuels.

I'll definitely watch the milage, to be honest I haven't gotten a good read on how the milage was before since I only have 150 miles on the bike. Another nice thing withthe power commander is that I can pot a "zero map" in it any time which will make it transparent to the bike and put all settings back to stock so even with it installed I can do side by side comparisons.

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oh... so that's what the zero map is for.... :thumbsup:

are we able to adjust the settings from the knobs on the unit... or we can only change the settings through a PC/laptop?

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oh... so that's what the zero map is for.... :thumbsup:

are we able to adjust the settings from the knobs on the unit... or we can only change the settings through a PC/laptop?

It can edjusted using the buttons but it's a VERY coarse adjustment with only high, medium and low speed settings (kinda like jetting a carb bike).

The really cool thing is that when companies like Graves and Akra make pipes for the bike they will typically submit a map to dynojet for their pipe as well.

In the sport bike world it's known that the base maps given by dynojet are only a starting point and a dyno is needed to correct the map for each bike. This is kindof true here as well but the % of gain to HP is much smaller here than on a 150hp sport bike so fine tuning the map is probably not worth the cost for people not lucky enough to have a dyno redily available.

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Ok thanks... so you hook the PC with stock bike right now? Any major/minor modification/upgrade?

I was thinking which one to get first.... full system or the PC... hmmm

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Ok thanks... so you hook the PC with stock bike right now? Any major/minor modification/upgrade?

I was thinking which one to get first.... full system or the PC... hmmm

I have the stock pipe - the SA. everything else is stock for now.

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oooh... have you tried to run the map with the air box lid opened? any significant difference?

sorry... I hope I don't sound irritating... :thumbsup:

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oooh... have you tried to run the map with the air box lid opened? any significant difference?

sorry... I hope I don't sound irritating... :thumbsup:

Haven't yet. I was gonna do the flapper mod too, just ran out of time last night. I'm going to try to stage tune it starting from bone stock and I'll post the dyno charts as I go, should be interesting.

Not irritating at all. questions help others learn and that's why I posted here. I'll be of any help I can. I'm usually behind when it comes to off road tuning since I work with roadrace bikes but this bike seems to be right up my alley.

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Ok cool... thanks for sharing your experience :thumbsup:

I believe with the air box inner enclosure opened, it can perform much better...

Last weekend I removed the inner cover (but I have not removed the flap yet) and rode for a couple of days.... the bottom flattened out even more...:worthy: but the mid to top was much much smoother :p

so I guess with the help of PC, it can do wonders! :p

however, in DynoJet website, the map stated:

Stock exhaust , Stock air filter, Airbox lid removed

I wonder which lid they are referring to.... the flap or the inner cover :cry:

Oh ya... do you upload the maps by yourself? and can you switch maps without the PC/laptop?

Thanks... :ride:

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Oh ya... do you upload the maps by yourself? and can you switch maps without the PC/laptop?

I do load maps myself but it has to be done with a computer.

I did see the map for airbox lid removed. I'm not sure if Dynojet submitted that map or not. There are some serious differences with that map so you are correct that removing the air box lid makes a lot of difference.

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Perhaps a stupid question but if you remove the spark arrestor is there any chance of your bike actually sparking and causing a fire? Or what do the rangers do when they check it if they decide to inspect your bike? If I get one I would like to "free mod" it maybe doing something like that stock looking tip someone made and the power commander before going exhaust (I do like the sounds of the aftermarket cans tho)

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Yeah, it can, a dirt bike caused a wild fire in my area, they charged the rider with the 2 mil dollar fire fighting cost!

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