another valve question

You were told wrong. The manual explains this. "I" is TDC, and "H" is for ignition timing. But for the sake of checking valve clearance, it's close enough.

What these marks are supposed to line up with is a small notch cut in the top of the top timing plug hole. Again, this is explained in the manual

I guess I was told right. I just remembered backwards. This is why I always have the manual with me when I wrench. :thumbsup:

I know that TDC is top dead center.

I searched for grey racers valve thread but nothing came up. If someone has the link let me know.

I must have a sucky downloaded version of the WR426 manual because I have no specs on valve specs.

Try this for a manual and see if it works better:

http://www.yamaha-motor-europe.com/community/service/manuals.jsp

Your valve clearances should be 0.10-0.15mm for the intakes, and 0.20-0.25mm for the exhausts.

On timing the cams, if you have them both out, start by positioning the exhaust cam first. When checking either cam, be sure that the chain running from the exhaust cam to the crank on the front side, and between the cams on top is drawn tight. The exhaust cam needs to be in place in order to be able to do this on the intake.

Once you think you have it, rotate both cams slightly backward by hand until the crank rotates slightly backward from TDC. Then, rotate the crank forward until it returns to TDC, then check the timing marks on the cams. They will not line up precisely, but what you look for is whether they would be closer to right, or farther from it if the mark was on the next tooth.

Release the tensioner and recheck it one more time.

Well I got it all checked out and just waiting on an oil filter so I can go riding again.

The Intake took a .102 snug and wouldn't let a .15 go.

Exhaust took a .209 snug and wouldn't let a .25 go.

So seemed good to me, that wasn't so bad. Just don't want to do any adjustments.

Thanks guys for the instruction.

So you're on the tight side of OK, I would highly recommend checking them again in a couple of months and shimming to the bigger side.

If they stay at .10 and .20, there's no reason to ever change them. That's how they are built to begin with.

If they stay at .10 and .20, there's no reason to ever change them. That's how they are built to begin with.

That is what I thought.

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