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Problem with a kick starter

By woodybepierced,
in WR400F/426F/450F

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Grand Master

SJMC_DON

Posted
Posted

I had a similar situation on my 400 once. It happened after a kick back when starting and it ended up being the kick shaft stop, which is actually a small piece of stainless that keeps the kick shaft from damaging the case upon return. In my case the kick shaft stop had split and was allowing the kick shaft to return about an 1/8th of an inch too far and was engaging. The part was all of $2.50 and took a couple hours to replace, you need to remove a bunch of stuff including the clutch to get to it. I suggest using a manual to do the work. I lucked out in that this little stainless stop only split and did not actually break off a chunk that could roam around freely in the engine and I can only assume that this is the same case here with you.

You can probably prove this in your case by pushing back slightly (in the direction the kick starter goes when you are starting it) while the engine is running maybe an 1/8th to a 1/4" and notice if the noise stops. If it does than you need a kick shaft stop. I actually bought two at the time (5 or 6 yrs ago) and I think I have the second one still, if I do I can mail it to you free of charge as I no longer have the 400. PM me if interested.

Good Luck:ride:

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  • 8 months later...
Grand Master

SJMC_DON

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Posted
Did you ever figure out the issue?

On my '03 WR, if I push the kicker forward when it is idling, the clicking stops. I assume the return spring is not doing it's job?

(I got my bike used with a recluse clutch if that makes a difference...)

I think you're right... I don't know how the rekluse would make any difference but it does sound as if your return spring in not working right.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Explorer

DuneDevil

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If your reading or active in this thread here is the rest of my story:

Took the case off to find the bike pissing out gear teeth.

The springs were all fine, but the stopper failed. When the stopper dosent seprate the kick start gear from the kick start shaft bad things happen.

Moral of the story? If your kick start makes a ratcheting sound when the bike is running, you should get in there are replace the "stopper" ASAP. You'll probably be ok for the rest of the ride, but but the next time your bike back fires while kicking, get ready to spend some $$$.

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crakey

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Okay, I order the "stop" piece, which is #20 in the Yamaha IPB on the kickstarter section online- as that seems to be the problem.

***Here's the question: How hard is it to replace the $5.40 piece? In my manual (Cylmer?), it talks about the "shift lever stop" replacement, but it never shows how to change the kickstart stop. Is this something I can do myself, or is it a Yamaha shop ($80/hr) repair job. BTW, I rate my mechanical skills are intermediate- I can fix everything on the bike that has needed to be fixed, but on this bike it hasn't been too many parts (Thank God)!

Thanks everyone! ?

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crakey

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I'm referring to #11:

Okay, my the IPB that I ordered from had a couple of different parts.

PLEASE check this out for me, as I do not know what I am looking for. ?

Here is where I went: http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/2/Yamaha.aspx

options: Yamaha

-motorcycle

-1999

-WR400FL

-starter page

I purchased number #10, part number SKU: 5BE-15668-00-00 STOPPER.

Please let me know if this is the correct part, and secondly (and the easiest to answer), how in the hell do I change it?

Thanks again!

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DuneDevil

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So I think you are on the right track, but I would buy one more part.

Buy both parts 10 and 11. 10 is $3.53 and 11 is $5.44.

Buying both would guarantee that the entire mechanism is as Yamaha designed. Also, you can compare the new parts to the old parts and KNOW which is bent and or tweaked.

The additional $5 will offer lots of peace of mind...

Please keep us posted!

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Grand Master

SJMC_DON

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I only had to replace #10 as did woodybepierced if I am remembering correctly.

But like DuneDevil suggests I'd buy the other part too. It's cheap and you'll be in there already.

I broke my clutch hub because I was not using the proper tool to pull to hold it while I loosened it... other than that the job is easy with the Yamaha manual.. I don't know bout the clymer manual though.

Good Luck:thumbsup:

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Grand Master

SJMC_DON

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Do I have to tear everything out as the manual says, or can I just easily remove the worn part? Should I get the clutch hub removal tool? Thanks again for the help everyone!

It's been 5 or 6 years since I had to do it but I know you have to pull the clutch hub and I think the tools are generic so you can get them at any bike shop.. it basically holds the clutch hub while you loosen or tighten the nut.

I think you had to pull the water pump and inner case cover but I could be wrong that was many years, bikes and beers ago:busted:

When in doubt, always follow the manual:thumbsup:

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DuneDevil

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You'll need a 30mm (or 1 and 3/16) socket to remove the clutch basket.

Put the bike in 5 gear and have a friend hold down the rear brake lever (firm). That'll do the trick.

Be very careful not to over torque bolts!

Also, watch the oil change guide on you tube for the wr250f from the guy with the pony tail. It is very helpful and confidence boosting in prepping for this job...

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crakey

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You'll need a 30mm (or 1 and 3/16) socket to remove the clutch basket.

Put the bike in 5 gear and have a friend hold down the rear brake lever (firm). That'll do the trick.

Be very careful not to over torque bolts!

Also, watch the oil change guide on you tube for the wr250f from the guy with the pony tail. It is very helpful and confidence boosting in prepping for this job...

Thanks, I will check it out. I appreciate the help... but I may take it to my "backwoods" mechanic and watch him do it. I haven't ever had to do any motorcycle internals, but I was a jet engine mechanic for 6 LONG years... I know that s*** can happen if you mess up one little thing!

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Rockstar14125

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Hey, I am about to do this exact same thing to my 98 yz400 and if anyone is interested I can post pics for you'all. I have allready taken it apart down to the clutch boss but I had to stop there because I didnt have a 30mm socket and I wanted to see if it was ok to just put it in gear to remove the 30mm nut on the clutch. I put it all back together while my part comes in so I can take pics as I disassemble it again. I will get a socket this weekend and probably do it mid-late next week. This is also my first time doing anything more intense than fork seals so I will make the mistakes for you ? .

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  • 3 weeks later...
Newbie

madt7873

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the kickstart on my 03 is jamming down most of the time and it's making the same dragging sound, how much work is it and is it an easy fix?i haven't been out on the bike in about 6 months and i'm starting to get a little bit frustrated:ride:

PLEASE HELP!

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