My chain snapped and did some damage look.......

BC3 - you're right, there's an oil passage right there to feed the bearing the oil passage is fed by a brass tube with 2 o-ring washers right at the tip which resides directly behind the crack - I would split the case for sure.

HMMRDWN - I think 2-3 stock case savers would be stronger than one, if you can get them welded together, they'd be even stronger acting as one unit.

had the same hapen to my yz 450 chain broke off and broke the shifer down. had to get new case and all together cost over $1000

This thread cost me $40.00. I already feel better.

you guys are putting way too much trust in a case saver.Those things are mounted with 2 weenie 6mm screws into the case itself.

If a chain bunches up against it, its just going to snap the mounting holes and you are going to have to fix the case in another spot too.

Unless the case saver is mounted back on the frame its just a step above nothing.The crux of the situation is not to have your chain break.

I wish I could see the zip ty one mounted, they just show they saver alone,, it looks like it has more material to the ignition cover side that would help take up more of the impact force if a malfunction occured??

Either way,,, I liked the design of the zip ty better, it cost $4 bucks less, and it makes me feel better knowing it could possibly avoid $1700 repair I wouldn't want to ever make in the first place.

Oh,,, and I'll keep my chain tight and maybe even replace it again someday. :thumbsup:

Im sooo happy that all of you are learning from this thread and my mistakes hahahaha. Theres nothing more I love than to break things and spend the money to fix them so you guys can learn. I get all warm and fuzzy inside knowing Im helping. So I might do someother things when I get bike back like run with no oil, coolant, etc. When it blows up Ill be happy to pay to get a new one and show ya the damage. :busted::thumbsup:

Im sooo happy that all of you are learning from this thread and my mistakes hahahaha. Theres nothing more I love than to break things and spend the money to fix them so you guys can learn. I get all warm and fuzzy inside knowing Im helping. So I might do someother things when I get bike back like run with no oil, coolant, etc. When it blows up Ill be happy to pay to get a new one and show ya the damage. :busted::thumbsup:

:ride: :ride: :cry:

Thanks buddy!!

Maybe you could suck some sand in your breather tube and let us know how that works too!

(Doh!,,,, I haven't re-routed my breather hose!!) :busted:

:busted::ride: :ride:

Thanks buddy!!

Maybe you could suck some sand in your breather tube and let us know how that works too!

(Doh!,,,, I haven't re-routed my breather hose!!) :busted:

nah, Matt does need to do this for all of you....I did it and it was a fun fun time getting all the crap out of that WR motor.......thank goodness for Marvel Mystery Oil :thumbsup:

So I might do someother things when I get bike back like run with no oil, coolant, etc.

Haha, anybody remember TT user Getdrunk doing this? :thumbsup:

Ah, good ol' Andy from Wisconsin. I had almost forgotten.

Dammit.

Instead of those little case savers and the aftermarket case savers that are just a tad better than stock, get on of these (www.toparracing.com) they call it a 'chain guard' for obvious reasons. I've broken two chains over the last 8 years and no damage whatsoever to my bike.

Instead of those little case savers and the aftermarket case savers that are just a tad better than stock, get on of these (www.toparracing.com) they call it a 'chain guard' for obvious reasons. I've broken two chains over the last 8 years and no damage whatsoever to my bike.

I'm not see'n how that's any better.

That same thing just happened to my brother last month you have to replace both sides of the cases and the bearings because they are a pain to get out of the old cases and it will run you about 900 bucks if you do it yourself. and while you are at it you should replace the top end too.

Just JB weld it. It is worth a try.

as long as the clutch still works smoothly, and you're not leaking oil when you're finished, you can give the JB Weld a try. See if you can close the gap any with a little pressure before you try to JB Weld it. (not too much pressure you don't want to finish what the chain started) I've seen J.B. Weld do just as it advertises and hold together tractor blocks until they could afford to get them repaired. If you're on a budget, and want to get back out there give it a try, but watch it, if it starts to leak call it quits.

Just got mine,,,, looks like it would help a ton in the event of a failure,,, it almost sits tight to the ignition cover I think that would also help disperse some impact force. Looks kinda cheezy to me but that's o,k. rather safe than sorry. :thumbsup:

P1010001-4.jpg

I'm interested in the zip-ty one also. I questioned the fact that it was made out of plastic and they said that they used plastic to reduce chain wear. Is it better than the hammerhead one?

The theory on the plastic one, which has merit, is that it will yield if it's hit by the chain. Would you rather destroy the case saver, or the case?

Just got mine,,,, looks like it would help a ton in the event of a failure,,, it almost sits tight to the ignition cover I think that would also help disperse some impact force. Looks kinda cheezy to me but that's o,k. rather safe than sorry. :thumbsup:

P1010001-4.jpg

What kind is that?

What kind is that?

Oh, sorry,,, its Ty Davis'

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