Connecting Rod Play... should there be any?

Please, anyone that would know please let me know... i am replacing the cylinder and rings, and i just removed the head and cylinder. there was no detectable play with the piston pin and piston connection, but when i removed the piston and checked the con rode connection to the crank, there was a little movement.. maybe 1/2 mm left to right. there was no vertical movement, just the rod could be slid about the 1/2 mm horizontally left to right.. is this normal?, i couldn't seem to find anything about it in my manual.. is it a concern? please, any help would be appreciated.. you can pm or email me at james@blackdogservices.com thanks! :)

also, does the cylinder ALWAYS have to be honed for a new piston? and if so, what does it usually run?

I believe minimal side to side play is normal. Up and down play is what you do NOT want.

Such a small amount as you described should not be a concern. If it was excessive, (say like 5mm or so) then you may have a major problem.

Anyone care to confirm or deny this?

Vertical play is what you should be concerned about.

Since you don't gots any you be otay!

Beezer! whew!

thats what i thought, but i was beginning to doubt myself... thanks all!

any idea on the honing?

I have a hone and use it with some WD-40 as a lubricant to break the glaze so the rings seat faster.

I don't know if this actually does any thing but I saw some guy who's cousin said he knew what was doing do this.

With me it's monkey see monkey do.

I have never had an original thought in my head.

By the way whats black dog services? Sounds like a whorehouse for Labrador Retrievers.

Beezer,

you just used one of those adjustable jobs from and auto parts store? i saw a medium grit one, fits from 2" to 7 ", looked perfect, but i had my doubts about them.. did you have good results? how long did you spin the hone in the cylinder?

Honing is a good idea, and it will help the rings seat to the cylinder with a good seal. I would say to hone it with a ring and or piston change. BTW it doesn't take long to hone it, maybe only a min or two. Make sure you use oil in the cylinder while honing, it will work better and it will collect the particls. Also wash out the cylinder with soap and water when you are done. Simple as that :)

cool! kinda what i figured, but i thought maybe someone could give my lazy ass a reason not to hone, but looks like i will be.. have a new piston and rings ready to go.. need to get a piston pin and circlips, and gaskets and she goes back together and into my frankenbike!

What the other guys have said about rod play is right on the money.

As far as honing the cylinder, being a Nicosil cylinder, unless you have a diamond impregnated hone, all you can do is break the glaze. A ball hone or expandable hone will NOT crosshatch the cylinder as it is just too hard. Just use a ball hone to break the glaze. Never hone at all when reusing the old rings, only when installing new rings. After using the hone, take ATF(automatic trans fluid) and paper towels and wipe thru till the towel comes out clean. Particles of the hone imbed in the crosshatch and MUST be cleaned out.

so just use the medium grit hone from the auto store to deglaze and thats it? and what is atf, automatic tranny fluid?

FFRacing79 is right. But all you really need to do is break the glaze for the new rings.

ok. will get the hone... thanks for all the help! and piece of mind concerning the rod.... :)

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