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Coastie3202

Flywheel Weight, Sprockets, or Both

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In an effort to make the YZ 450F more friendly for the woods should I go with a flywheel weight, new counter and main sprockets, or both? I am looking for the most economical way to go and so far the flywheel weight looks like the way.

Your opinions are appreciated.

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I did the flywheel with +12, FMF pipe, JD jetting kit and went up in one tooth in the rear sprocket on my YZ426. The thing is, the fly wheel helped in my stalling at slow speeds and low RPM's, but the jetting and rear sprocket added more response and quickness on the throttle.

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The flywheel is a must-have for woods riding.

After that you can fiddle with the gearing to find what suits you best.

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Neither one will help anywhere near as much as a Rekluse auto clutch. I have a 02 426 and I added two teeth in the rear and a 9 oz flywheel weight and while it helped make it more tractable, the Rekluse totally transformed my bike.

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Assuming that you currently have stock gearing (or something very close to it) then you will realize the most benefit from the flywheel weight.

If you bought the bike used and the previous owner had it geared really tall then you should get the sprockets back to a close-to-stock configuration.

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I am looking for the most economical way to go and so far the flywheel weight looks like the way.

Your opinions are appreciated.

A drive sprocket is cheaper but the F.W.W. is the best or both if you can afford it.

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Neither one will help anywhere near as much as a Rekluse auto clutch.

+1 Nothing makes a YZF more woods friendly than a Rekluse. They are not cheap, but they are worth every penny. If you decide to get one, get the 'Pro' version, its a lot better than the old style (I've had both). :thumbsup:

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The flywheel weight is the only way to go, actually both will help, thats what I did. 10 oz GYTR offroad flywheel, 51 tooth back sprocket, and some octane booster and she is perfect for the off road, add a skid and some hand quards and its safer. The YZ is an awesome off-road bikeif you put a little $$ into it to start with.

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Thanks for advise everyone. I am going to go with the GYTR 10oz flywheel and a 51 tooth on the rear.

After that will come a skid plate (recommendations appreciated) and a 2.6 gal. Clark tank, then rad guards.

Now I only have to wait for them to open the forest back up. They closed it due to drought conditions and fire danger.

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Thanks for advise everyone. I am going to go with the GYTR 10oz flywheel and a 51 tooth on the rear.

After that will come a skid plate (recommendations appreciated) and a 2.6 gal. Clark tank, then rad guards.

Now I only have to wait for them to open the forest back up. They closed it due to drought conditions and fire danger.

Want to really add some distance maybe consider a IMS 3.1.

NewTankPics002.jpg

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Want to really add some distance maybe consider a IMS 3.1.

I noticed that you are running Seal Savers on your YZ. Do you have a problem with the left fork guard rubbing a hole in the Seal Saver? Mine rubs a hole when the suspension gets compressed.

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Want to really add some distance maybe consider a IMS 3.1.

I noticed that you are running Seal Savers on your YZ. Do you have a problem with the left fork guard rubbing a hole in the Seal Saver? Mine rubs a hole when the suspension gets compressed.

No problems yet.:thumbsup:

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