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RoachToast

KX 65 - Splitting cases - need help

26 posts in this topic

I'm in the process of splitting the cases on a 2003 KX 65. I've removed all bolts on the fly wheel side. I've removed the clutch cover and looked for any other bolts holding the case together. I am still unable to separate the cases.

Does the clutch need to be removed in order to split the cases? Is there something I am missing?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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I takes a puller to split the cases. I use a modified Harmonic Balancer puller by screwing into the stator mounting holes and pushing against the crank. Awhile back I posted a thread on splitting the cases of a 250 with lots of pics,look for it you will see how to do it. I also did a thread on reassy of the cases. The clutch can stay on but i find it better to remove it too.

Ed

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I'm not 100% sure of this for a kx65, but in most cases, the right side slips off the left and guts, so yes, I'd be taking the clutch off.

I'm in the process of putting new bearings into my wr400f and I took everything off, it's completely apart right now, but the clutch needed to be removed in order to split the case.

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I've hit another issue. I can't loosen the bolt in the middle of the clutch. Tried air ratchet. It won't budge. Any suggestions? Is it reverse thread? Sooooh frustrating.

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NOT reverse thread. Use a impack wrench or a clutch hub holder. Look for the case splitting thread I made, it shows both ways. Search for it it is back aways.

Ed

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Since you asked for suggestions, I suggest you check on buying a service manual. It will help explain it.

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Since you asked for suggestions, I suggest you check on buying a service manual. It will help explain it.

:thumbsup: ...

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Hey, now. :thumbsup: I wasn't being funny. Though it doesn't apply to this post, I am thankful for having a manual when I was younger. It saved me from several times of taking stuff apart, as I could read how hard it would be to put it back together correctly. :rolleyes:

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Sometimes I do not use the manuals I have enough, since I tend to think I know enough. They are great to have (and use) no mater how much one thinks they know. I hope it all works out for RoachToast, the first time can be a painful experince.

Ed

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Manuals are quite necessary for an engine rebuild - if you don't use it for anything else BUT torque values - they are VERY important, or your engine could :mad: which will make you :rolleyes::thumbsup::crazy::rolleyes: because you're not :bonk:

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Hey RoachToast, what method did you use to successfully remove the clutch hub nut? My daughter's 2003 RM65 has a toasted lower con rod bearing and I can't get the clutch hub nut loose so I'm kind of stuck. And yes I have a service manual ;-)

no1clyde, I serached for your thread about splitting cases but was unable to find it -- I don't suppose you have a URL?

Thanks very much to all.

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my method was a crowbar threw the sprocket, have it in 1st, and get out an electric impact. took the nut right off :thumbsup:

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I just started disassembly on a 2000 kx65 so that i could split the cases and i used an impact wrench on the clutch hub bolt and it spun in right off no problem...service manuals are expensive for these bikes because you have to buy the oem service manuals...clymer doesn't make one. i got mine on ebay for about $45 i think?? anyway...there are definitely ways around some of the specialty tools they say you NEED (although im not saying it wouldn't be easier using the specialty tools haha) anyone have any ideas to make or modify a puller for the magneto??

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The case splitting thread is a long way back now and I am not very good with these computers so I am not much help finding things. Any way use an impack wrench to remove the clutch nut. As for the flywheel go buy the right tool.

Good luck to all

Ed

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Thanks very much to everyone for your help. I finally got that pesky clutch hub nut off :-)

mtoracer11 is quite right about the cost of manuals for the kx65/rm65 -- it's crazy.

Some flywheels have 2 or 3 threaded holes so you can use a universal puller fitted with the proper size bolts but the kx65/rm65 doesn't (at least my rm65 doesn't) so you'll need a puller. Flywheel pullers aren't universal but there's only a few different sizes -- AFAIK you'll need a 27 mm unit. The 27 mm size is the most commonly used and it fits *many* different MX bike models. If you ask around at your local MX club you'll likely find someone who'll lend you a puller that'll fit your kx65. And they aren't expensive to buy -- I've seen Tusk -branded units available online for < $7.

Speaking of pullers, has anybody used a crank puller for installing a crank assembly into a kx65/rm65?

Thanks again to all.

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Thanks for the links, Chokey! I appreciate it.

And thanks to no1clyde who went through all the effort to post the pictures. Those 2 threads are a tremendous help!

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you don't need pullers to install the crank, first off, use the BBQ to heat your cases one at a time - then drop in your bearings - they will slip right in saving you tons of headache trying to push them in square without a bearing press.

Have a properly sized socket (outer chase) ready to tap them in to seat right.

Then, heat the cases again and the crank will slip right in to the bearing because the bearing just got temporarily bigger in size (heat expands metal) and the cold rod will slip right in because it's still smaller - same goes for the second half of the case when dropping it onto everything - make sure you've got all parts on the first case as well as your gasket or sealer, because you only want to go through this once.

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I finally got all the part I need to reassemble my daughter's Rm65. Does anybody have any idea how what temperature the case halves need to be heated to in order to successfully reassemble them and what a maximum temp might be? I don't want to overheat the case or trash the crank seal (Recall: The RM65/KX65 has at least one crankshaft seal which has to be installed *before* you reassemble the case halves). I was planning on heating the cases in an oven because it would provide better temp control than a BBQ. Also, would it help to freeze the bearings or crank to shrink them a bit before dropping them in?

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