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Frostbite

WR 450 - What does it take to get to your jets?

14 posts in this topic

Is it just me, or does everyone’s bike look like this when they re-jet?

jet1.jpg

jet2.jpg

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frostbite,

small price to pay to have alu frame and electric start, :eek:

Don't you have a heated garage ?

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I hinge the rear subframe up and tie it off to the handlebars with a cycle tie down to get it out of the way . I've really grown tired of the whole tear down just to jet thing , but I can swap most of them out thru the bowl now.I just can't move the needle ez .

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Here's my mess (let's see if I can do this):

IMG_1430.jpg

Glad I only had to go in once so far.

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frostbite,

small price to pay to have alu frame and electric start, :p

Don't you have a heated garage ?

True, but it would be nice if the carb would spin sideways enough for easy access to the top and bottom. I can barely get my fingers in to adjust my Zip-Ty mixture screw.

As for the garage I don’t have much choice. I’m in this town working on a contract so I rented a house, but no garage. In fact, there are no homes in the entire town that have garages, let alone heated.

Working outside isn’t a big deal for me, and it’s been above zero lately so the hoses and cables are flexible, but a heated garage would be nice. I just sold my house down south and there I had a nice, heated, attached 2 bay garage.

I hinge the rear subframe up and tie it off to the handlebars with a cycle tie down to get it out of the way . I've really grown tired of the whole tear down just to jet thing , but I can swap most of them out thru the bowl now.I just can't move the needle ez .

Tweav, are the wires and hoses long enough for the subframe to pivot up, or do you have to disconnect some of them? I guess I forgot that the reason I started swinging the sub frame sideways was because the wiring harness and hoses were too cold to bend.

Here's my mess (let's see if I can do this):

Glad I only had to go in once so far.

That’s the ticket right there. If it was a one shot deal it wouldn’t even be worth mentioning. When I’m re-jetting, I don’t even mind taking it apart the first time, but not getting it right sucks. The trial and error method of jetting turns into trial and live with the error until I feel like taking it apart again. My bike was too rich at idle and small throttle opening. I dismantled, leaned my pilot jet and dropped the needle a clip. Put it back together and zero difference, and the mixture screw has almost no effect. Now I’m thinking that an air jet must be plugged so I’ll probably take the carb off and give it a thorough cleaning. Then I’ll pop it back on, and be back to jetting again. Bahhhh. :eek:

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yea the Al frames are no fun whatsoever... Fortunately I got mine right the first time. Still had to take it all apart again to put in the fuel screw...

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Wow... don't mean to rub it in but doing jetting on my 426 is one of the easiest thing to do. No starter motor and have steel frame, airbox boot pushes back with ease, carb slides out and twist to position. Seat , gas tank sub-frame airbox stays where it should be.

Not that it helps any of you 450 guys, but those whom never owned a 400 0r 426 may not realize it how easy it as just a few years back.

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Wow... don't mean to rub it in but doing jetting on my 426 is one of the easiest thing to do. No starter motor and have steel frame, airbox boot pushes back with ease, carb slides out and twist to position. Seat , gas tank sub-frame airbox stays where it should be.

Not that it helps any of you 450 guys, but those whom never owned a 400 0r 426 may not realize it how easy it as just a few years back.

I know, I also have a 99 WR 400 and jetting and even complete carb removal is super simple.

I don't want to sound like I'm bashing the engineers or technology, becauseI'm not. I just want to make sure I'm not missing some shortcuts, that I'm not taking the bike apart unnecesarily.

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The last time I hinged mine up . I did not unhook anything ,but then again My bike was in the house where it was nice and warm .I'm not sure if you have to unhook anything when your wiring is still mounted from factory. the first time I pulled the sub I took it clean off.

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Guys,

It is NOT necessary to tear the bike to peices to rejet. Yes, I have the alum frame WR! You can get the needle out of the top with only pulling the seat, tank and upper motor mount. The bowl comes off with the carb on the bike if you loosen the clamps and rotate the carb a little (it will only go a little). I also use ball end allen drivers to pull the fasteners. BTW the leak jet is the only jet that requires the bowl to be pulled, you can swap main and pilot jet throught the 17 mm bowl drain plug. The o ring AP mod can be done with the carb on the bike as well, you do have to pull the exhaust though, but that is a cake walk compared to pulling the carb. I built my own adjustable fuel screw that I can turn with the bike running.

I have developed some curious strategies to work on this bike, but I have never pulled the carb, hot start nut, throttle cables, airbox, subframe or shock to get to the jetting.

It takes me about 20 min to make a needle change. About 10 for a pilot change and about 5 for a main jet change.

If you need more infor on how to get to this stuff, just ask, I can give more detail if necessary.

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you only have to disconnect the breather hose on the airbox, the rest of the hoses and wiring will swing up with the subframe.

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I do carb pulls like Rabbit. Because it was such a pain, I put in an adjustable leak jet. Will have no reason to pull the carb unless it gets crap in it.

I swap mains and pilots through the plug on the bottom with this tool:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/90_degree_1-4_hex_driver/

Though there is a enough room to use other carb tools in the space.

By being clever, you can get to the slow air jet and main air jet by only folding the air boot and not getting too pissed off.

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