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intensem1rider

98 EXC motor rebuild parts?

6 posts in this topic

Ok, my friend decided finally that it was time to rebuild his 1998 KTM 300 EXC, it has had a top end done before he bought it last year, but go knows what the bottom end is like, so he gave me the go ahead to do an overhaul, bottom end up. Just wondering what things should be ordered besides the obvious (piston kit, gaskets, crank, crank bearings, crank seals) anything specific I should be ordering? And where can KTM stuff be aquired?

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Not sure about the 300, but for 200 crank or rod kit, there is very little aftermarket availability. I think the 300 is the same. Pro-X was supposed to begin exporting its rod kits to the US, but if those are not widely available, you may be going to KTM to buy OEM parts.

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Crud, you gota be a millionare to own a KTM, where are OEM parts available for good prices? And is there any recommendations on top end kits and where to get one?

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I haven't found that they're THAT badly priced. The problem with the 200s and 300s isn't their make, it's their size. In between bikes like that, as common as they are, are still not as numerous as 125s and 250s, and that affects aftermarket availability.

When I rebuilt my 200, I found that the crank kit was priced very close to the rod kit, making it a no-brainer to buy a brand new crank with rod and bearings already installed.

I start with my local dealer, and then I check online. www.munnracing.com has a large selection of KTM parts.

Actually, I just checked my favorite online parts store, www.rockymountainmc.com and they did show a rod kit available for the 300 as well as gasket kits and top ends.

Are you *sure* the bottom end even needs to be rebuilt? Most of the time, they will last an incredibly long while unless the air filter has been neglected and the engine sucked sand or dirt.

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I agree on using the factory parts as Fcracker said. I use Munn, get a discount if a member of KTMTALK, TT may have parts too tho. I would NOT replace the rod bearing and just do the mains unless it is measureably too loose. I would do mains, gear box and clutch bearings also. This will be an extra $100 or so, but off set if you dont do the rod. Clutch hub would be another thing to look at once apart to see if too worn and may cause clutch drag.

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ok, well we ordered a factory service manual so that way i'll be able to spec everything first before going crazy and replacing stuff that does not need to be yet, if the crank is still ok, then i'll probably just do a top end for him then, thanks for the links!

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