When using the e-start get "zapp" sound - 07' WR

[mruke]

I was interested in swapping out my stock odometer for an ICO dual sport model. Underneath the stock odo, there are three sets of wires. I unplugged all three and tried to start it with the button. Nothing happened. I figured this beforehand, but gave it a shot anyway.

Now, when I try to button start the bike gives a "buzz" or "zapp" sound for the length of time that I hold the button. It kicks with ease, no probs there.

The buzz or zapp sound comes from under the seat, where the battery and fuses are. There are 2 fuses, one is an extra, I believe. I tried to swap the fuses and no change.

Anyone have any idea what this might be???

I'll save my questions about removing the odo for another topic......

Thanks!

[dazzabb]

Ignition Relay.

I'm having drama's with my electric start at the moment too.

Check out my thread below.

You'll see from this that I'm no expert, William is the man to ask.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=636965

[mruke]

Ignition Relay.

I'm having drama's with my electric start at the moment too.

Check out my thread below.

You'll see from this that I'm no expert, William is the man to ask.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=636965

Thanks dazzabb. Since I just got my bike new, it couldn't be the starter. It has to be one of the relays. After I disconnected the wires from the odometer and tried to start it, maybe it fried a connection? I don't see how, but l am clueless with electronics.

After I kick it, switch it off, and immediately try the button it does start, but maybe that is because there is slighty more current passing through the relay at that point?

If I wait a minute after switching off, I get the zapp again.

Thanks, and I'll stay on track with your post too for any future developments.

[grayracer513]

Sounds a lot like the battery energy level is too low. Connect a voltmeter at the battery (or anywhere you can get to battery voltage). Under no load, it should be no lower than 11.5 in any case, and really should be more like 12.5 to 13. Turn the key on and hit the starter. The voltage will certainly drop, but should stay above 9. Above 10 would be better. Try this both right after running the engine, when it will start, and again at times when it makes the buzzing noise.

While running, the voltage at the battery should be 13-14 or so at anything above an idle.

[SJMC_DON]

Sounds a lot like the battery energy level is too low. Connect a voltmeter at the battery (or anywhere you can get to battery voltage). Under no load, it should be no lower than 11.5 in any case, and really should be more like 12.5 to 13. Turn the key on and hit the starter. The voltage will certainly drop, but should stay above 9. Above 10 would be better. Try this both right after running the engine, when it will start, and again at times when it makes the buzzing noise.

While running, the voltage at the battery should be 13-14 or so at anything above an idle.

+ 1 ?

This is typical of a dead or low battery, happens to me on my 07' if it's real cold or I left the little red LED on between rides.

There is no impact in removing everything from the front end, I have replaced my headlight with a # plate and have removed my speedo / odo... you have to leave the ignition circuit intact and have to come up with a way of mounting the ingition button (little red LED) , etc....

Anyway, I highly doubt you did anything while disconnecting and re-connecting wires... I would bet that you simply have a low charge on your battery

[mruke]

ok, thanks guys. the more i read, the more i find these batteries are kinda of weak off the shelf. starters seem flimsy too, from what i've read. just like any other bike, they'll have their issues, overcoming them is half the "fun".

just seemed odd to me the battery woulod go 100% dead like that, without leaving the ignition on overnight. didn't have a chance to charge the battery today, but will see what happens when I can.

SJMC_Don, you said in order to remove the odo I have to leave the ignition circuit intact. How does one go about that? Isn't that the one set of wires from the odo going to the black connector fitting?

Thanks,

Mike

[SJMC_DON]

SJMC_Don, you said in order to remove the odo I have to leave the ignition circuit intact. How does one go about that? Isn't that the one set of wires from the odo going to the black connector fitting?

Thanks,

Mike

What year is your bike? If you have the electronic ODO I assume it's 06' or newer... The odo mount also serves as a bracket for all of the wiring connectors to mount onto... In removing my headlight and odo assy. I think that there were only 3 or 4 wiring harnesses left that were still connected.

Start Button

Kill Button

Clutch Switch

Ignition Switch

You have to remove the wire connections that are mounted to the odo bracket thus they hang open air.

The odo wiring, atleast on my 07', is independant from the other wiring so it's of no impact to any other systems needed for the bike to run if you unplug it.

[mruke]

The saga continues..... the bike is an 07' WR250. I didn't get any replies over there initially so I posted here, where a much more knowledgable population of WR owners apparantly resides.

Anyway, the voltage of the battery with no load is 12.65. That seems to be where it is supposed to be.

I replaced the fuse at the starter relay and it remains unchanged. Everything plugged in and ignition on, I get that buzz when I hit the starter. The sound is like when you make a wrong move on the game "operation" and you hit the sides of the part. What was weird is when I removed the light connection and tried to start it, I got nothing - no sound.

When everything is in and i get the buzz at the starter relay, does that mean that my relay is working, or not neccessarily?

The bike is a month old. I've done 1 enduro with it so far and very little trail riding - so I don't see how it could be the starter?

I'm jumping the gun here, but on a side note there are three sets of wires going into the odo - the mech drive cable, a wire that goes into a black connector (assume its for odo illumination), and a "dummy" set of wires (3 brown, 1 yellow) that attaches to nothing. If I remove the odo from the bike, the only thing I worry about is the black connector. Should I just plug this up with something?

Thanks for any help that can be offerred. Last thing I want to do is bring it to a shop.....

[eddie98]

So any updates on your issues? I have an 04 450 and this weekend after riding it started doing the same thing to me. I just hear the zapping noise. I took the seat off when I got home and I can feel around the connector where the fuses are vibrating when I push the start button and it zapps.

[mruke]

i forgot what happened - it was back in April. there were a few weird things that happened and all electrical. the bike has been fine for awhile now though.

the one time i had an issue, my ground wire was loose. the wire, while sitting on the bike, is on the right side mounted on the engine block above the exhaust. another issue i had was the starter button itself. it had been bruised after getting hit and causing all sorts of chaos. nothing was harmed, i just clipped it, replaced with a tusk kill switch and worked fine.

make sure your battery is up to snuff' too.

those have basically been my experiences - all minor. since i got it, it's still a great, fun bike. valves are still in spec, everything else is icing on the cake.

[William1]

The two things on WR's that seem to happen a lot is the ground wire being loose or (Dooh) left disconnected after some other maintenance or a failure of the button itself. From time to time, the button can be cleaned and all is right with the world, other times, a replacement is called for.