Loose insert in subframe

[te450rider]

I went to put some new sidepanels on my 450 this weekend and noticed that the left rear bolt for the side panel wouln't screw in. Upon further inspection I noticed that the steel threaded insert was loose in the aluminum subframe. It appears when when the plastic broke it must have tweaked the insert because not only is the insert loose but the threads are a little messed up. Has anyone found a solution for fixing or replacing these metric inserts?

Thanks,

Mark

[robertaccio]

Try to "stake" it in. Use a sharp end punch to ding the metal around the riv-nut, this will "stake" it in, and stop the spinning. best of luck, R

[sharpie1]

Heres some good info on how to fix.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370636&highlight=riv+nut

[yz_anders]

I had the same problem on my Tc450-07 and there is a solution.. I wen´t to a "weldingshop" and they told me that it was a .. I don´t know the english name for it but I hope you understand..

They had the correct tool for it and fixed it in a couple of seconds.. No welding, nothing..

Hope you understand!

// Anders

www.AndersMx.se

[Beaver Cleaver]

Try to "stake" it in. Use a sharp end punch to ding the metal around the riv-nut, this will "stake" it in, and stop the spinning. best of luck, R

After you get it " staked " you should run a thread chaser down the hole to clean up the threads. Now take a bolt with a nut and washer on it and thread it into the insert making sure to engage all the threads, tighten down on the nut so that it expands the thread insert and makes it tight in the hole again.

[robertaccio]

A riv-nut tool is the corrct intall tool

[pvduke]

http://fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

[robertaccio]

nice homebrew!!!Riv-Nut Ale!!

[te450rider]

Thanks for all the replies. I tried the bolt and nut method to try and tighten the insert but it started to pulled the bolt out before the insert tightened up.

At this point I think the best method is to find another insert and see if I can replace the old insert using the method that pvduke supplied the link for. I work close to Tacoma Screw so I will stop by tonight and see if they have any.

Mark

[Ekim-Yak]

Just FYI.

I've had the same problem, same location, on a TE. I think its a semi-common issue.

[FAST1]

Mine has the same problem, same bolt, however I can not get the bolt out since it is spinning the rivit nut in the frame..

any suggestions?

[pvduke]

I've had good luck with cocking the wrech at an angle a little to side-load the riv-nut to get it to stop spinning. Not sure if that makes sense or how to describe it further. Also- if you can get in behind the panel, between the nut and frame with a blade on a screwdriver a helper can spin the wrench while you load the flanges of the riv-nut with a wedgeing action.

This usuallly works if the nut has not been stripped clean from repeated attempts to loosen, bolt aitn seized etc.

I also like to grease the bolts going into riv-nuts to get propper clamp w/o excess friction.....don't use loc-tite and don't over-tork. Never had one (bolt) fall out but would rather have that than a spun nut (that didn't sound right...lol).

[te450rider]

I went to Champion Bolt supply in Everett last night and picked up a couple of 6mm Rivnuts for a total cost of 3 dollars. I drilled out the old insert and using a 2 inch bolt, socket, washers and nut I installed the rivnut. I used a liitle red locktite to help secure the Rivnut. I am very pleased with the results.

Mark ?

[dpetteys]

I did mine this morning. Fortunately I have a riv nut gun, so I just needed a new mandrel and inserts. I held the screw head with a small pair of vise grips and drilled the head off and removed the remains of the bolt. From there I noticed that the old riv nut was in very loosely so I put 2 large washers between the riv nut tool and the sub frame and used the tool to pull the riv nut out. I then installed an aluminum M5 x.8 riv nut in it's place, so far so good. I got all of my tools and inserts through Mc Master Carr, an industrial supply company, they have everything you could imagine and have great customer service. Mcmaster.com

[FAST1]

I've had good luck with cocking the wrech at an angle a little to side-load the riv-nut to get it to stop spinning. Not sure if that makes sense or how to describe it further. Also- if you can get in behind the panel, between the nut and frame with a blade on a screwdriver a helper can spin the wrench while you load the flanges of the riv-nut with a wedgeing action.

This usuallly works if the nut has not been stripped clean from repeated attempts to loosen, bolt aitn seized etc.

I also like to grease the bolts going into riv-nuts to get propper clamp w/o excess friction.....don't use loc-tite and don't over-tork. Never had one (bolt) fall out but would rather have that than a spun nut (that didn't sound right...lol).

Had some time on my hands this afternoon and followed your suggestion. Fortunately was able to put enough torque on the riv-nut from behind with a screw driver to get the bolt out.

Good thread here with some great advise by several posters.

[mudhead]

I've had good luck with cocking the wrech at an angle a little to side-load the riv-nut to get it to stop spinning. Not sure if that makes sense or how to describe it further. Also- if you can get in behind the panel, between the nut and frame with a blade on a screwdriver a helper can spin the wrench while you load the flanges of the riv-nut with a wedgeing action.

This usuallly works if the nut has not been stripped clean from repeated attempts to loosen, bolt aitn seized etc.

I also like to grease the bolts going into riv-nuts to get propper clamp w/o excess friction.....don't use loc-tite and don't over-tork. Never had one (bolt) fall out but would rather have that than a spun nut (that didn't sound right...lol).

Awesome! I have the same problem in the same location. It made changing the rear fender a royal pain without removing the side plastic. I'll have to give this a shot tomorrow. Thanks.

Tom

[raisrx251]

If you can get the bolt out I have fixed three of them (different bikes) by using a long bolt and a nut. So far they have held up. I am using a longer bolt with a flange end nut. Run the nut all the way up to the head of the bolt. Then I screw the bolt into the spinning insert until it bottoms out on the inside of the sub-frame. Put a wrench on the bolt and run the nut with the flanged end onto the sub-frame/insert area. I then hold the bolt with a wrench and tighten the flanged nut to re-crush the insert.

[mike_dean]

I put a bolt thru the subframe to make it a stud has worked fine for 2 yrs on both sides, screwed it right thru the rivnut and tightened it down. I wouldn't put riv nuts back in.

[jive turkey]

I went to Champion Bolt supply in Everett last night and picked up a couple of 6mm Rivnuts for a total cost of 3 dollars. I drilled out the old insert and using a 2 inch bolt, socket, washers and nut I installed the rivnut. I used a liitle red locktite to help secure the Rivnut. I am very pleased with the results.

Mark ?

awsome, perfect, thanks

[exit90a]

I have the same issue with these inserts on both sides. I would like to be rid of them completely. I can't figure the best way to get them out. Once they are out I plan to drill through the back side of the subframe and use a longer bolt and nut like mike_dean. Any ideas on how to best remove the inserts? I tried threading the oem bolt back in and using a hammer to pull it out, as you would remove a nail, with no luck. I also considered trying to drill the insert out, but don't want to deal with the inner portion falling into the subframe and being left to rattle around. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.