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arcboy

Bad front brake pressure

16 posts in this topic

I searched for bad front brake issues and did everything that I could find.

My issue is that I had a hard front brake lever but little braking power. I blead it and put new fluid through it and now I have a soft lever and the same brake pressure, I mean it stops but not much braking power. I can't even com close to doing a stoppie.

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I had to bleed my front brake on the 02 426 yesterday, and for the life of me cannot get a nice firm feel on the lever. I too tried all the tricks I've read in this forum, but cannot get it to feel like it was. It does seem to stop as well as before though.

I can't say I've been able to modulate it well enough to do a stoppie, but it will slow me down in a hurry!

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I had to bleed my front brake on the 02 426 yesterday, and for the life of me cannot get a nice firm feel on the lever. I too tried all the tricks I've read in this forum, but cannot get it to feel like it was. It does seem to stop as well as before though.

I can't say I've been able to modulate it well enough to do a stoppie, but it will slow me down in a hurry!

Yeah mine will slow me down also but not until the lever is almost hitting the grip.

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fork seals leaking or WAS leaking???

mine was so bad i couldnt stop at all

if so take the pads off and brake clean them

when you bleed it "snap it" dont do it like a normal brake. bled mine for 45 min and nothing...pull it in 1/4 or so and let it out real fast til it snaps

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fork seals leaking or WAS leaking???

mine was so bad i couldnt stop at all

if so take the pads off and brake clean them

when you bleed it "snap it" dont do it like a normal brake. bled mine for 45 min and nothing...pull it in 1/4 or so and let it out real fast til it snaps

Yes I did have leaky seals and replaced them and I did take the pads out and cleaned them with brake clean. I tried your way of bleading them and nothing seems to matter, I may be doing it wrong. I don't even get any resistance out of the lever when it is in 1/4 of the way. I try to let it out real fast so it snaps but I don't know what is the deal. It should not be this difficult.

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My 05 locked up on me back during Thanksgiving Weekend and dropped me like a circuis clown. The brake handle was super tight and could not pull in. While on the trail, I broke the hose lose to relieve some pressure. Worked pretty well after that but not the same as stock. Then 4-days later loading the bike in the trailer, the brake lever went to the grip and no brakes!

I rebuilt the master with geuine Yamaha parts and works ok? and still not like it was just before that weekend. I re-blead the front brake just a few weeks back and seems maybe a little better?.

All I could say is darn glad that didn't happen on the pavement. I still would have been recovering from it. :prof:

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I just don't think that rebuilding it is necessary, but I could be wrong. Yes definately good thing it didn't happen on the street.

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I had leaky front seals and rebuilt the front caliper. That was easier than I thought it would be. Previously I had a horrible time bleeding the front brake. This time my procedure was:

Pull in the handle and hold it in.

Open the bleeder for a second (or less) and close it.

Then let the handle out.

Repeat until bled.

This worked really well for me. If you are still not stopping well after they are bled you may need to replace the pads, even though you cleaned them.

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The only issue you need to be aware of is that the brake line route higher then the master cylinder right were it passes the front number plate.

This is the place where air bubbles would accumulate/get trapped.

If you follow the bleeding procedure you out line above, it may not remove air from the line because the air bubble would keep rising back to the highest point.

Trick #1: remove the master cylinder from the handle bar, raise it/suspend it up high using a string hanging from a ceiling, let it stay like that over night, or for a period of time. Try to keep the cylinder in a horizontal position so the air find it s way back to the reservoir.

Trick #2: while the master cylinder is positioned high , take a screw driver or pliers and and push the calipers piston back this will force brake fluid into the reservoir taking any air bubble with it.

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If you contaminated the pads, you may need to pull them out and use a propane torch and cook them. I have had the same problem before. If you heat them with a propane torch (until they are almost red hot), and you see a small plume(maybe a big plume) of smoke come off initially, you know the brake cleaner didn't get all the oil out of the pads. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner and use a Scotch Brite pad to slightly scuff the surface of the rotor before re-installing the pads (small circular strokes). This should help you do a crazy stoppie. If the lever feels spongy, the brake should be bled before the torch treatment is done.

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Well I bought a rebuild kit and after I install it I will then bleed as suggested, then try and burn off any residue that the pads might have, hoping that they don't crack.

If this doesn't work than I guess I will just have to buy a new bike. Wouldn't that be nice.

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I helped with a stubborn bleed problem several years ago on a friend's bike. After hours of trying we were about to give up. Then we decided to remove the entire brake assembly and hang it upside down. When we did that, and re-bled it a couple of times, while hanging up side down, it solved the problem.

We thought for sure it was a bad master cylinder. Turned out to just be a stubborn air bubble.

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I helped with a stubborn bleed problem several years ago on a friend's bike. After hours of trying we were about to give up. Then we decided to remove the entire brake assembly and hang it upside down. When we did that, and re-bled it a couple of times, while hanging up side down, it solved the problem.

We thought for sure it was a bad master cylinder. Turned out to just be a stubborn air bubble.

When you say hang it upside down, do you mean to have the caliper in the air so the air bubble runs to the master cylinder?

How did you bleed it? Did press the lever all the way, then open the bleeder and pump it up, or what?

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When you say hang it upside down, do you mean to have the caliper in the air so the air bubble runs to the master cylinder?

How did you bleed it? Did press the lever all the way, then open the bleeder and pump it up, or what?

It was almost 20 years ago, so I forget the details, but yes the caliper was in the air. I think we tried pumping fresh fluid thru while the whole assy was upside down. Can't think of any thing else we did right now, but if I do, I post it.

There is probably a way to power bleed it too. A local MC shop may have some tips.

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I realize this is an old thread, but my left fork is leaking somewhat badly everytime i ride.  Also, I just noticed today the front brake is not as effective at atopping and requires a harder pull.

 

I'm thinking my forks may not be lined up properly. The axle does not move in the bottom of the right fork holder without a whack from the rubber mallet.  Can someone possibly send me instructions on how to properly line up the front wheel when replacing tires?

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