Tutorial - YZ450F (06 & up) Electrical System For Lights

Yea, i had turn signals just to get my inspection, but since i knew i was taking them off right after, i just made a totally self contained system using an 8 cell AA battery pack. I used DOT approved LED signal lights and the low wattage flasher from Wheeling.

YZ Wiring diagram. Sorry for the ad hoc nature of it, as I didn't have time to spiff it up.

Wiring_YZ.JPG

I forgot to add on the diagram that the of the four wires coming out of the keyed ignition, the other two go to the kill switch. When the ignition is off, the ignition is grounded and the motor will not run, and dc battery power is switched off. When the ignition is on, DC battery power is switched on and the ignition ground is broken, allowing the motor to run. Swatdoc can correct me on the name of the switch (DPST I think).

anyone know if you run the 50 watt stator from moose, can you run the new style wr headlamp (08-09) on the yzf? might be a cleaner headlamp and factory to boot. the fiche shows it as a 35-36.5 watt unit. hoping this is a viable option. gonna plate the tard for some deals gap runs, and alittle hooligan riding. ski

it will run the 35 watt light no problem, my acerbis headlight is 35 watts. what could be a potential problem for you is that the WR light is not DOT approved - could be an issue if you get stopped.

God job, Lumpy - definitely more complicated than mine. I don't even have a keyed switch on mine, but if i did, i'd run it thru the kill switch wires like you did. I actually never ride my bike anywhere that i would have to leave it out of my eyesight, with the exception of the police station, and even then i don't leave it in our parking garage - i lock it up in the sally port where we keep our swat command truck!

Thanks Swatdoc. The diagram probably isn't perfect but it gets the general idea across. It's easier to actually do than to write down on a piece of paper, so long as you go slowly. Now that it all works I am redoing the connections to tidy them up and will post pics. In MA, to pass inspection you have to have a keyed ignition, DOT headlight, DOT turn signals, basically the whole nine yards. I will never let this bike leave my eyesight so the key is only going on to pass inspection, plus it removes the kill switch from the bars (though I could easily hook up a run/stop switch if I want to later). The last challenge I am working on is an upper chain guard/chain buffer. Not sure what will work.

to get plated in mich i only need headlamp, brake/tail lamp, horn and mirror (no signals required). local police sign off on the plating. i would never ride this at night. i am only plating it for deals gap running, maybe once a year. would like to work it out to be able to remove this stuff easily and cleanly. the bike i am converting is already a supermoto track bike.

swatdoc, i sent you a pm on supermotojunkie. i am assuming from your drawings the wiring for the brake/tail, and headlamps is all really easy?

guess the hardest thing looks to be rebleeding the brakes after the pressure switch install, and just installing the stator (niether really hard). anything i should be on the look out to avoid, or not break/strip, or anything i should worry about? ski

Lumpy - the Graves chain block is all you need to keep your chain off the rear tire/wheel.

Ski - sent you a pm. basic wiring is really easy, you should have no problems. blleding brakes is a pita, no getting around it. the aftermarket stators do have reliability issues. i would recommend getting a second ignition cover and mount the moose stator in that, and then switch back to the stock stator for racing - just to feel better about reliability. with the stators already mounted in the covers, it's only a 5 minute job to switch them, as long as you lay the bike over on it's side so you don't have to worry about the oil.

Swatdoc, I have the Graves guard but am concerned that it won't fly to pass inspection. I am going to try to rig up both the Graves guard and a Zeta heel guard (http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/images/UwsVBwyh0ngAABg7fsoAAAAK-47569.jpg). I'll try metal L brackets first and if that fails I'll try welding tabs to the swingarm.

I had no trouble bleeding the brakes after putting on hydraulic switches. Didn't even have to bleed the rear. For the front, I just back bled a tiny amount from the caliper in order to push the air bubbles out through the master cylinder. When you own KTMs, you get real good at back bleeding brakes!

I have the Moose stator, mounted in a new cover. Very easy switch back and forth to the stock. Make sure to put silicone sealant around the rubber grommet where the wires go into the cover.

Wiring just a head light and tail light and hydraulic brake switches is easy. If you are using the Swatdoc AC system, you just need a voltage regulator. It's all in his diagram on the first page.

Ah I see, i thought you said you had the Graves guard - now i now what you're talking about - the chain guard that street bikes have - the protection device - not the one to keep the chain off the tire.

Well on another note, I found out why my bike was dead in the water with no spark. After checking the usual/easy stuff, it came down to either the electrosport stator, or the Graves CDI.

Naturally I assumed it was the stator, with all the reports of unreliability from the electrosport/moose stators. Soooo, i swapped out the stator for a brand new one from Moose - and still no spark! Dammit!

Thought - Hmmmm, how the hell could it be the CDI, and just from sitting in my garage? well, swapped out the CDI for the stocker - bingo, we have spark again!

Guess I owe Electrosport an apology for assuming it was their part that failed.

Think at this point I'm gonna just keep the stock CDI in there - reliability like this isn't cool, especially for what I paid for the damn thing ($350!!!!). I could see something like anothe Graves CDI failing when I'm out riding 25 miles from home! I'll sacrifice a bit of performance for the reliability of the stock electronics.

that is actually a dynatek ignition, the maps are from/for graves yamaha specs. you might be able to work with one or the other to get a replacement. there are several of us running them for supermoto racing and they have held up very well in race applications. i would figure the beating and banging of racing would be more than street riding. might be a surge from the stator, or lights causing to burn out the cdi. hard to tell. might have a bad ground, or bad ignition unit altogether and it was just bad luck.

hope you find a fix, i love the electronic speed shift that ignition features. full throttle no clutch, no rolling out of the throttle upshifts. awesome feature for racing applications. ski

I'll give it a try, Ski - I do hate giving up the ignition, and my bike had less than 300 miles on it when it went out!

Funniest thingis that it was running perfect last time I rode it, then it sat in my garage for a few months, then next time i went to ride it - no spark! Weird!

I was gonna hook up the speed shift option, too - i bought a really nice billet kill switch just for that purpose.

looks like most people are going with the moose/electrosport stator as opposed to a rewound stator. i've heard theya re pretty unreliable though (as swatdoc mentioned a few posts up). has anyone tried the stator rewind???? im thinking about doing that instead. if i get a 450, i really want it street legalized

also, i heard baja designs has a battery powered headlight, with the battery self contained behind the light. but i can't find it on there website. does anyone know how much it costs? are they any others like it from other companies?

also, i heard baja designs has a battery powered headlight, with the battery self contained behind the light. but i can't find it on there website. does anyone know how much it costs? are they any others like it from other companies?

Just make any DC system like I did but don't connect it to the stator.

looks like most people are going with the moose/electrosport stator as opposed to a rewound stator. i've heard theya re pretty unreliable though (as swatdoc mentioned a few posts up). has anyone tried the stator rewind???? im thinking about doing that instead. if i get a 450, i really want it street legalized

also, i heard baja designs has a battery powered headlight, with the battery self contained behind the light. but i can't find it on there website. does anyone know how much it costs? are they any others like it from other companies?

Someone makes a drop-on, self contained 8" HID race light that is said to run for 3 hours on the Li-Ion battery it comes with. It runs $700 and includes everything. I'll check tomorrow to find out who makes it.

700? eh thats more than im willing to pay. id pay 300 at the most....

You'd be hard pressed to find an 8" HID lamp w/ballast by itself for that, but if you do, let us know.

Gray - go ahead and post that info when you can - I'm tracking down some electrical gremlins in my bike now and getting frustrated. Thinking about going to a total loss, battery only setup for my lights and am interested to see what kinda battery setup that system uses than can power a light for 3 hours.

Swatdoc, why not get the big daddy 7.5 Ah Turn Tech battery and mount it in the airbox?

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