Ok, a few of you have asked for an outline of how I wired my 07 450 for lights to make it street legal. So here it is - hope it's helpful. Please note - this is A way to do it, I'm not saying it's THE way to do it. I'l give you my reasons why I did things the way I did along the way. First off, you'll need a different stator with a seperate circuit to power some or all of your lights. As we've discussed previously, there are a few ways to do this If money is no object, pick up a 07 WR450 crank, ignition cover, and stator. You will need to split your cases to install the WR crank. This setup will give you the most power output (watts) BY FAR - but the drawback is cost - you're looking at around $1000 with labor, or about $600 - $800 if you do all the labor yourself, including welding up the hole in the WR ignition cover where the starter would go. That's a lot of money, and frankly way more hassle than I wanted to do, so I went with the cheaper option, which if we choose our components carefully, will be just fine. So option 2 involves either having your stock stator rewound by Lake and Trail, or buying a replacement lighting stator from either Electrosport or Moose. I bought both, and they appear to be the exact unit. Expect to pay between $165 - $195 for a stator. I think Lake & Trail charges around $225 to rewind your stocker, if my memory is correct. (also - for our European brothers - there is a U.K. company making a stator for our bike: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/erol.html#9354X0 ) Before we go any farther, when deciding between option 1 or 2, determine how much night riding you will be doing and how important a really strong headlight will be for you. The WR stator option will give you 100+ watts to play with, even more if you go with a aftermarket Trail Tech flywheel with stronger magnets. This much wattage will alow you to run a 50+ watt headlight which will be WAY better at night that a 35 watt light. Rewinding the stock stator or buying the Moose/Electrosport stator will net you about 50 watts AC power or about 34-40 if you convert it to DC. (More on that later) 50 Watts is barely enough to run a 35 watt headlight and an LED tail light. Not very bright at night! But for me, I really don't plan on ever riding my bike at night, and on the rare occasion I might, all the roads i'd be on are lit - so no big deal. My headlight setup is primarily to pass inspection to get my plate. Depending on your needs, chose accordingly. OK - here's a pic of the Moose stator in the stock YZ ignition cover. Note the 2 extra wires - A black wire which goes to the chassis ground, and a yellow wire which is the hot lead for your lights. You will also need either a voltage regulator if you plan on running the system AC to keep the voltage from going past 12 volts and frying a light, or a regulator/rectifier to also convert the output from AC to DC. Electrosport has the regulators for about $20, and Trail Tech has the regulator/rectifiers. Halogen headlights and a Baja Designs LED tail light will both run fine on AC, so I left mine AC. With DC, you can run HID lights. You can also install a battery if you want. Only problem is that a rectifier will eat up available watts and leave you with only 35-40 watts - and that's cutting it real close when just the headlight needs 35. Now I know an LED tail light only needs 1 watt, but remember our 50 watt stator only puts out 50 watts at half to full throttle. When you're cruising on the freeway at 1/4 throttle, the output WILL be less! Now if you run an HID light from Trail Tech, it only uses 19 watts - but it's not DOT legal, so you need to think about that. A LED tail light is pretty much mandatory, as regular bulbs use about 20-25 watts themselves, and that coupled with the 35 watt headlight puts you over the capabilities of the system. This is why I say component choice is critical. Again, I stuck with AC to have more available watts, and used a 35 watt headlight with a 1 watt LED tail light. I also recomend using good waterproof connectors like Weathertight. I also use a waterproof mini fuse holder to hold a 5 watt fuse to protect the system. Here's a pic of those items: Fuse holders here: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/150/products_id/506 Weathertight connectors here: http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=MSD8173/424.0 I mounted my regulator behind my front skidplate. The slots in the plate allow air to cool the regulator: Here you can see the fuse holder and weathertight connector. I cut the yellow and black wires from the stator a few inches out to mount the connector and splice in the regulator: Here's the wiring schematic i used for the headlight and tail light: The brake light switch is a hydraulic unit I got from Forrest at Wheeling Cycle. It replaces the banjo bolt on your rear brake at the master cylinder. The headlight high/low beam switch / horn / signal cluster is sold by Trail Tech. Now for turn signals and horn, I used battery powered units because I really don't have much power left, and I'm gonna take them off after i get my plate anyway. For signals, i used led units from K&S - only use 1 watt and are dot approved ($100 a pair though). For my horn, I used a "megahorn" which is a self contained 9 volt battery horn: To power the turn signals, i just got a 8cell AA battery holder from Radio Shack. I used an LED specific flasher unit , also from Forrest at Wheeling. I just sat the battery pack in the airbox, along with the flasher. (after I get my plate, all this mess of wiring will be sleeved and generally cleaned up) That's pretty much it guys - a very basic system to get your YZ street legal with the bare minimum. I'm probably forgetting something here - just ask and I'll help with any more questions.