Cam tensioner removal?

I got the tool to hold the cam tensioner on my NX650 so I can remove the cam/head but I can't seem to figure out how to move the tensioner lever to get the tool installed? The book says to use a screwdriver to push the lever and simply install the holder but I can't figure out how to push the lever? I've tried several times but ??? Also, before I remove the cam I should have the piston at TDC right? I'm a little worried about getting the timing messed up. The service manual is pretty vague in some of the instructions. I wish there was someone local I could pay to come help put this bikes engine back together that actually has a little knowledge.......anyone know anyone in San Antonio?

Thanks,

Steve

I got the tool to hold the cam tensioner on my NX650 so I can remove the cam/head but I can't seem to figure out how to move the tensioner lever to get the tool installed? The book says to use a screwdriver to push the lever and simply install the holder but I can't figure out how to push the lever? I've tried several times but ??? Also, before I remove the cam I should have the piston at TDC right? I'm a little worried about getting the timing messed up. The service manual is pretty vague in some of the instructions. I wish there was someone local I could pay to come help put this bikes engine back together that actually has a little knowledge.......anyone know anyone in San Antonio?

Thanks,

Steve

If I lived closer I'd come do it for beer!

Put the engine at TDC compression(the lobes will all be pointing downward at an angle. Make sure and mark the chain to the sprocket, and note the marks on the sprocket level with the surface of the head.

Thanks for the offer! I wish you were closer as well. Every post of yours is always helpful!! I was wondering about the timing chain. I read somewhere to mark both the chain and the sprocket to make sure they realign in the same position? Also won't the chain come off the lower sprocket when I remove the head?

Thanks for the offer! I wish you were closer as well. Every post of yours is always helpful!! I was wondering about the timing chain. I read somewhere to mark both the chain and the sprocket to make sure they realign in the same position? Also won't the chain come off the lower sprocket when I remove the head?

It's a lot simpler than that. Put the engine(crank) at TDC and the marks on the cam gear even with the top of the head casting. This is what you chack after you put it all together to check that the cam chain is on correctly and the valve timing is right.

To get the tensioner out, remove the valve cover. Take out the 6mm bolt (10mm head) that holds the far end of the tensioner. It's on the inside of the valve cover and goes straight down. Pull the center of the tensioner out the side.

I find that it is much easier to get it all together if you take off the side cover. Then you can get at the lower chain sprocket on the cam and can push back the chain guide. That makes it a lot easier to get the tensioner back in.

I just went through this last year on my XR600. That tool is for installation of the cam chain and sprocket. To remove the tensioner undo the cap screws that hold the cam sprocket on and pop the sprocket off of the cam. This will let all the tension of the chain. Remove the 6mm setscrew in the top of the head that holds the tensioner axle in and slide the axle out and remove the tensioner. Going back together was the pain for me even with the tool. Like you said put it on top dead center on the compression stroke when you take it apart. As far as the cam timing goes most of the books cover that part pretty well so you won't have any trouble there. Hope this helped you out.

Joe

Thanks guys for the words of encouragement. I'm headed out to the garage to try and get the head off..wish me luck!!

One more thing.

the head cover comes off easily with the engine in the frame, but you must remove the carb and carb to engine boot. Impossible with the carb in there.

So much easier just to remove the engine...I mean what is it,the Seat, the tank,,8 nuts and bolts (engine mounts), a few wires, the carbs the chain, the right hand footpeg and brake lever and the exhaust,,whoops forgot the oil lines...In the time I had done that lot you would still be trying to get that pesky bolt out of the bottom of the carb manifold..pain that it is.Anyway Beezerjoes method is the go for removal of the tensioner and cleonards screwdriver trick is a go to get it back in.Once you have the retainer bolt out and the centering device out of the way you just pop the actual tensioner arm out with a screwdriver.The special tool is only needed for insertion of the tensioner arm.Getting it back in will be the fun bit even with that tool..Ps it doesn't matter if the chain drops off the bottom sprocket just wiggle it and turn the crank and it'll slip back on,,Just don't drop it down the slot or it may be awkward to get back up(wire it or rope it as someone said)then you line up the marks with top dead etc.

Bit more,,I notice this is all in aid of a broken exhaust stud.Personally I would just get the old stud removed and use your old head if thats all that's wrong with it.The one you bought may need valve guides doing and other work,,I'd stick with the original head ..Better the devil you know.

You guys are the best!!! I got the head off and have been drilling out the old stud for 2.5 hours now. Very slow going..I suppose heating the stud with the welder work hardened the stud. I'm almost through it though.

Well after 4.5 hours I FINALLY got the old stud drilled out. Went through lots of drill bits. I thought I had done a good job staying off the old threads in the head but after running a tap through there the new stud is a little loose. I suppose now I'll have to install a heli-coil. I want to thank everyone for the advice and support!! I's sure I'll have other questions when I start the reassembly process.

Steve

Well after 4.5 hours I FINALLY got the old stud drilled out. Went through lots of drill bits. I thought I had done a good job staying off the old threads in the head but after running a tap through there the new stud is a little loose. I suppose now I'll have to install a heli-coil. I want to thank everyone for the advice and support!! I's sure I'll have other questions when I start the reassembly process.

Steve

I would highly recomend a "Time-Sert" over a helicoil any day.

http://www.timesert.com/

I would highly recomend a "Time-Sert" over a helicoil any day.

http://www.timesert.com/

I think that they are great, but they are out of my price range. A 6mm kit is $70. A sparkplug kit is over $350. The helicoil type kits are closer to $20. If I need a Timesert I'll just have a shop do it. The sparkplug ones are life savers, I just can't pony up $370 for the kit.

Ironic, as we speak CL... There is a timesert ad just below this post!

I agree, not cheap. The toyota dealer I work for buys them so I have them available.

Man do they work nice though!

you may be able to open threw hole in pipe flange and then thread next size hole into the head.And use new bolt.

Cotronics markets a high temp thread locker that works very well. If the threads are just a little loose, it might be worth a try.

I already had a helicoil kit left from another exhaust project on a car a couple of years back. The new helicoil went in with no problems. I'm going to clean the gasket sealing areas, combustion area then I'll be ready to reinstall the head. Thanks to everyone for their advice!!

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