Urgent, Smog block off kit questions

My bikes a 2006 xr650l CA model

Hey I got the Al bakers smog block off it from xrs only and it came with some instructions but you cant tell the engine from the handlebars on the sheets of paper so I went to 4strokes.com for instructions. The kit came with 2 x aluminum plates, 1 x large aluminum plug, 1 x small aluminum plug and 2 x rubber nipples. Heres my thing, I only used the the 2 block off plates, 1 of the nipples on the t connector that used to be connected to the smog pump and and the small aluminum plug that is now connected to the top air box hole. did I miss a step I still have parts left. I dont want to start the bike if I missed something??? Please help

My bikes a 2006 xr650l CA model

Hey I got the Al bakers smog block off it from xrs only and it came with some instructions but you cant tell the engine from the handlebars on the sheets of paper so I went to 4strokes.com for instructions. The kit came with 2 x aluminum plates, 1 x large aluminum plug, 1 x small aluminum plug and 2 x rubber nipples. Heres my thing, I only used the the 2 block off plates, 1 of the nipples on the t connector that used to be connected to the smog pump and and the small aluminum plug that is now connected to the top air box hole. did I miss a step I still have parts left. I dont want to start the bike if I missed something??? Please help

I think I had the same thing. Havent had any issues.

I had a few left over parts, too. I routed the vacuum lines as done in the Technical section from the 4strokes site and have had no problems.

-Joe

Alright I took it on a short 5 minute ride and it has a lot more power, I was able to power wheelie it in first gear with ease, It wouldnt do that before, I would have to rev the crap out of it or clutch it. Im just gonna go back now and recheck everything to make sure its all tight.

another question I have 3 black canisters on the left side of my bike.

1) Large one (size of a coke can) that the gas tank exhaust hose was connected to(former owner cut it)

2) medium size one that was taken off by me from this article( http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xrlsmog/ ) in step 16.

3) a small one that is still connected to the larger one.

My first question is do I need the large canister, cause I dont see any bike with it on it. The only thing it is connected to is the smaller canister.

And i just noticed in the same article he doesnt have any of these canisters.

Alright I took it on a short 5 minute ride and it has a lot more power, I was able to power wheelie it in first gear with ease, It wouldnt do that before, I would have to rev the crap out of it or clutch it. Im just gonna go back now and recheck everything to make sure its all tight.

another question I have 3 black canisters on the left side of my bike.

1) Large one (size of a coke can) that the gas tank exhaust hose was connected to(former owner cut it)

2) medium size one that was taken off by me from this article( http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xrlsmog/ ) in step 16.

3) a small one that is still connected to the larger one.

My first question is do I need the large canister, cause I dont see any bike with it on it. The only thing it is connected to is the smaller canister.

And i just noticed in the same article he doesnt have any of these canisters.

The large one is a charcoal cannister. Just a raw fuel vapor trap. Not needed, unless you worry about emissions.

Alright I took it on a short 5 minute ride and it has a lot more power, I was able to power wheelie it in first gear with ease, It wouldnt do that before, I would have to rev the crap out of it or clutch it. Im just gonna go back now and recheck everything to make sure its all tight.

another question I have 3 black canisters on the left side of my bike.

1) Large one (size of a coke can) that the gas tank exhaust hose was connected to(former owner cut it)

2) medium size one that was taken off by me from this article( http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xrlsmog/ ) in step 16.

3) a small one that is still connected to the larger one.

My first question is do I need the large canister, cause I dont see any bike with it on it. The only thing it is connected to is the smaller canister.

And i just noticed in the same article he doesnt have any of these canisters.

The large one is a charcoal cannister. Just a raw fuel vapor trap. Not needed, unless you worry about emissions.

Thanks martin, I really appreciate all your help, but the fuel vapor trap has one hose that is connected to the smallest canister, and that small canister has 2 hoses that are connected to the carbureuter. If I got rid of the large one wouldnt that leave the system open, so to speak????

Thanks martin, I really appreciate all your help, but the fuel vapor trap has one hose that is connected to the smallest canister, and that small canister has 2 hoses that are connected to the carbureuter. If I got rid of the large one wouldnt that leave the system open, so to speak????

Do you have any pics?

give me 15 minutes, ill post them

Pic 1 shows my beloved bike

Pic1.jpg

Pic 2 shows large canister

Pic2.jpg

pic 3 shows hose running to small canister

Pic3.jpg

pic 4 shows small canister

Pic4.jpg

pic 5 shows the screw driver touching the 2 hoses that run to the carb

Pic5.jpg

pic 6 shows my finger touching a hose where it enters the carb on the left side

Pic6.jpg

pic 7 shows the driver touching the other hose where it enters the carb on the riPic7.jpgght side of the bike.

I never have seen one that close yet. Quite a bit bit different than my 05L.

I would keep these pics for reference and slowly start removing the cannister and valve(smaller one). Cap off the nipple on the side of the carb where the small hose goes into the carb pic 6. the smaller hose can be capped as well.

Then try riding it and checking for any driveability issue.

BTW, good job on the pics!

thanks for the help bro, ill try taking the hoses off tomorrow and leteveryone know what happens

I removed all of the components in the smog system, starting with the charcoal canister at the front of the frame. Behind that along the left side was the smog pump. After that was the oil separator (the larger of the two canisters on the left side behind the motor), and then the diaphragm, (the smaller one by the oil separator).

The IMS blockoff kit that I used suggested taking some of the 1/2" line that runs between the air box and the oil separator and the crank case (right rear) and the oil separator to make one line that goes directly from the crank case to the air box. In doing this, the crank case is vented directly to the air box, though many here have acquired a 1/2" push in breather to vent the crank case, mounting the breather up in the frame near the top of the carb. This reportedly helps keep the engine oil a lot cleaner.

The vacuum line that runs from the diaphragm to the carb gets removed from the carb. I think that port was capped at the carb. Basically, if you have taken care of capping the carb ports, as identified on the 4strokes site, and you have run a 1/2" line from the crank case vent to the air box, all of the smog equipment you identified can be removed, lines and all.

I was trying to find my directions from the IMS kit so I could scan and post them, but no luck. www.4strokes.com in their technical section under Honda has a very detailed process with photographs posted by Gary Crawford. His post addresses the items you are working on now, now that the carb end of it is done.

-Joe

I don't want to add any confusion, but I'm almost positive I ended up capping all connections to the carb. It ran fine, HOWEVER I found that there was one hose that was to remain and it goes to the enricher circuit. If you look in the last picture, there's the round thing at the top of the picture and you can just see a little bit of the hose on it. That hose stays on and goes to a nipple on the front top of the carb where it meets with the engine. It has something to do with keeping a little extra gas going to the engine when you close the throttle and helps minimize popping.

Good grief! What is all that stuff. My nonCali was a breeze compaired to that.

I think you want to wind up without any of that stuff and only one vacuum line going from the front of the carb near the intake boot to the diaphram on the top right side of the carb if sitting on the bike. The only other hoses left stuck to the carb should be vents/drains that exit out the bottom of the bike. Just plug any other vacuum fittings with the little rubber caps. :confused:

I'd throw that beer-can-shaped thing from the front of the engine and all it's related hoses as far as I could - into the next zip code at least. But that's just me.

I removed all of the components in the smog system, starting with the charcoal canister at the front of the frame. Behind that along the left side was the smog pump. After that was the oil separator (the larger of the two canisters on the left side behind the motor), and then the diaphragm, (the smaller one by the oil separator).

The IMS blockoff kit that I used suggested taking some of the 1/2" line that runs between the air box and the oil separator and the crank case (right rear) and the oil separator to make one line that goes directly from the crank case to the air box. In doing this, the crank case is vented directly to the air box, though many here have acquired a 1/2" push in breather to vent the crank case, mounting the breather up in the frame near the top of the carb. This reportedly helps keep the engine oil a lot cleaner.

I did the 1/2" hose from tranny vent to the air box, via instructions from 4strokes.com. anothe question I have is since this is the tranny vent/crank case vent wont it put oil in the air box?

The vacuum line that runs from the diaphragm to the carb gets removed from the carb. I think that port was capped at the carb. Basically, if you have taken care of capping the carb ports, as identified on the 4strokes site, and you have run a 1/2" line from the crank case vent to the air box, all of the smog equipment you identified can be removed, lines and all.

but Gary crawford on 4strokes says nothing about the can size canister and the diaphram.

So let me get this straight, the 2 hoses that come off the diaphram and go to the 2 nipples on the carb are the ones to be removed and capped???

I was trying to find my directions from the IMS kit so I could scan and post them, but no luck. www.4strokes.com in their technical section under Honda has a very detailed process with photographs posted by Gary Crawford. His post addresses the items you are working on now, now that the carb end of it is done.

-Joe

Ray

I just ran the case breather hose up to just behind the tank, under the seat. Then put a K&N crank case breather on it.

100_8398.jpg

100_8395.jpg

Hey martin wheres a good place to buy the cran case filter at, looked on this sites store and couldnt find it.

OK I finished so ill show everyone how it looks. I only took it on like a 2 minute ride cause got my lil boy here by myself, and it seems to run well. I will take it for a longer spin this afternoon and post up how it is. enjoy the pics.

The first 2 pics shows all the pieces that came off during the entire process.

Pic8.jpg

Pic9.jpg

These 2 pics show the finished product.

pic10.jpg

pic11.jpg

This is the left side of the carb

pic12.jpg

Left side with driver pointing where nipple was plugged, if you look at the 6th pic from the top you can see it had a hose from the diaphram running to it.

pic13.jpg

Right side of carb, screwdriver pointing where nipple was plugged, if you look at the 7th pic from the top of page you can see it was also connected to the diaphram.

pic14.jpg

pic16.jpg

right side of carb with out screwdriver

pic15.jpg

Hers a pic of Mrs Piggy without the shroud

pic17.jpg

Heres a pic of her with the shroud.

pic18.jpg

pic19.jpg

Wow, there really was an engine hiding there!

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