clutch help? martinfan30 chime in

so i did a search and didn't find much love for the ebc clutches. i'm not sure if people are using the whole kit or just the fibers. anyway, i can get the whole deal with the springs for like $75 delivered. the only abuse it will see is slipping it to loft the front tire. not a whole lot of climbing or tight woods work. mostly street actually. i thought i could solve my wheelie woes with just a front sprocket, but after working the clutch to wheelie it up today, it is slipping like a bitch in 1st gear to bring it up. so does anyone have anything good to say about these things?

also, this will be my first install and i think it should be pretty straight forward with one exception -how far down do i tighten the springs? do the bolts run in until they come to a stop and bottom out, OR are you supposed to use a torque wrench? i have seen this job done before and actually helped out on several hayabusa clutch installs. i just never tightened the bolts down personally. i know all about pre-soaking the fibers etc.

rich, chime in here somewhere. you have yet to steer me wrong. i am debating spending the extra bucks for the barnett setup. that ebc package seems good and it gets decent reviews on the rocky mountain site.

If I may I would recomend also checking for notching of the basket .

setting cable slack free play and with wheelies on your mind maybe adding a whasher to the bolt will thighten your springs sum.

Not to thick a washer but all the same thickness .

then tighten them down criss cross about 100 inch pounds.(maybe some blue locktight)

Good luck

PS.

Dont soak in an oil with friction modifiers.

OEM clutch plates are pretty hard to beat. Haven't had to do a basket yet and have about 22K desert miles on my R so far.

Be sure to replace the springs too. Once I replaced a clutch, but cheaped out on the springs. It was slipping again in a few months. Did it again with springs and it has lasted for years.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489200

There is some positive talk of EBC here.

I am a fan of OEM parts myself, not saying the other A/M stuff is bad either.

Follow resurections advise, its good. Replace the springs for sure. Check the basket for grooves, this will make the clutch kinda hang up. Soak the plates in the oil you use, just make sure like res. said, watch out for f. modifiers.

Rich

i'm planning to use the ebc complete kit. it comes with springs too. i'll check for the grooves, but i'll probably throw it together and hope for the best. if it looks suspect, i'll order a new basket i guess. i just hope this ebc lives up to its rep on the rocky mountain reviews and not the ones from this site. no one seems to care for it on here.

You can file the grooves down a little to make it smooth. Unless you have the $$$ to repl. the basket.

I don't think you have to put "martinfan" in the title for him to chime in.:confused:

I don't think you have to put "martinfan" in the title for him to chime in.:excuseme:

Hey!!

So I have a LOT of free time!!

:confused:

Hey!!

So I have a LOT of free time!!

:excuseme:

I'm just jealous!:confused:

I'm very happy with this forums ability to shair and just happy to add my two cents .If it's worth that?

I'm very happy with this forums ability to shair and just happy to add my two cents .If it's worth that?

Your opinion is greatly appreciated. You have rebuilt/restored enough bikes to make your opinions valueable.:confused:

i'm pleased to announce i did the right thing. i spent the extra loot and got the oem clutch kit from genuine honda. it comes with metals, fibers, springs and gasket. if i went with the ebc or tusk to save a few bucks, i would have been replacing it soon and also would have had to go out and get a gasket. i also picked up a 14 tooth front sprocket and oil filter yesterday. the clutch kit is being sent via fed ex so i should have it by tuesday. i'll change the sprocket, adjust the chain, change the clutch and oil. it should run like brand new!! i'll maybe pick up a new plug too. thanks for the advice guys. i think i made the right decision.

i'm pleased to announce i did the right thing. i spent the extra loot and got the oem clutch kit from genuine honda. it comes with metals, fibers, springs and gasket. if i went with the ebc or tusk to save a few bucks, i would have been replacing it soon and also would have had to go out and get a gasket. i also picked up a 14 tooth front sprocket and oil filter yesterday. the clutch kit is being sent via fed ex so i should have it by tuesday. i'll change the sprocket, adjust the chain, change the clutch and oil. it should run like brand new!! i'll maybe pick up a new plug too. thanks for the advice guys. i think i made the right decision.

You made a great decision going OEM. Those parts are put in the bike new for a reason.

That 14 tooth will make wheelies easier without beating the clutch.

setting cable slack free play and with wheelies on your mind maybe adding a whasher to the bolt will thighten your springs sum.

Not to thick a washer but all the same thickness .

then tighten them down criss cross about 100 inch pounds.(maybe some blue locktight)

Good luck

Lemme counter to this, i say no washers specially if your putting new springs in. Heres why on a few YZ250s that i owned and my buddies few bikes ive actually came up with a clutch mod myself that will keep the bolts from tightening the springs just a tad and it helps with easier clutch pull which we all know is a good thing. Ive done this since about 1998 now and they were race bikes and ive never had a problem with the 4 or 5 bikes that ive done this too. I just put a small washer thats smaller than the inside diamater of the spring so the bolt still torqued like normal just kept the spring from squishing down a few mm's. It made about 10-15% easier pull and if it can stand up to me and buddies pounding the clutch and racing for years with it theres not alot of reliability issues. You dont nessecarly need the extra tension on a good set of clutch springs to make the whole clutch system work, only if you have somethings that weak within your plates and springs. Besides this most people neglect lubing their cable too which ill bet alot have harder clutch pull than they really want, get a cable luber and lube em up each year atleast once or twice.

Would only use loctite 221/222 (red light duty) IF the manual says to put loctite, if you dont have that loctite 242/243 but DEFINITELY torque to correct specs with a torque wrench that you know is pretty close, if you dont you WILL over torque and that can strip or even break the post off the basket. TRUST ME i wasnt always smart to torque wrenches and younger i was an over torquing fool but learned the hard way a long time ago.

Hate to preach about loctite but too many just say red or blue and theres light duty red and heavy duty red like this.....

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=154

TRUST me you dont want that in many bolts except a hitch on your truck.

Heres a great thing i found to verify what loctite is for what and the colors they are.....

http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

Wow that is a lot of info on Loctite. Bookmarked that one.

I agree on the Honda OEM parts. They are top notch. Never have had a problem with any of their parts.

Wow that is a lot of info on Loctite. Bookmarked that one.

I agree on the Honda OEM parts. They are top notch. Never have had a problem with any of their parts.

i hope more also do the same to save that link for the loctite, ive used alot of different ones and i just hate to see someone take that 271 just cause its "red" and put it on something that will cause a impact wrench to break trying to get out.

I never had need for red.

whashers is old school dude .

New springs for sure .If you can get new ones

believe it or not, i have some honda brand threadlocker. i'll probably use that or whatever my buddy has at his place. we will probably do the job there. he raced motocross for years so he is well-versed in the art of clutch jobs. i am just glad as hell that i decided to do the right thing on the clutch parts. the ebc one claims to "allow modulation" as opposed to snatching up like a stocker. "allow modulation" sounds like a ten-dollar word for "will slip like greased moose poop". the last bike i put a new clutch in was a street bike with big horsepower and the new clutch made it like a brand-new bike. i cant wait!!!

I never had need for red.

whashers is old school dude .

New springs for sure .If you can get new ones

red can be light or heavy threadlocker

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