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Family Man

What are your opinions of the stock chain?

21 posts in this topic

Ive read on thumpertalk, can't remmember the thread, that its not as bad as most people think, and that its even a pretty chain. Not quite as good as top of the line chains but decent. My aftermarket stuff is worn out so I put the stock chain a sproketes back on, in almost new condition. What do you think?

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Throw that stock chain in the garbage. Seriously. It will stretch out and chew up your sprockets in a hurry. It is a false economy to try to save some $$ by using it.

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I used the stocker on an 07 for about a month and had to tighten it every ride , I bought a D.I.D gold and its a little better, should have bought an 0-ring chain! I hear the X-ring is the shizzle

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If you use only the best maintenance practices, and just sort of putt around, the OEM chain may last you a couple of months. In the process, it will destroy the sprockets.

OTOH, the Regina ORN6 I put on my son's bike the day I brought it home in June of '06 is finally now at the point where it and the OEM rear sprocket need to be replaced (bear in mind, we ride year-round here), and that is by my standards of wear, not Yamaha 's much more lenient specs. It was adjusted 4 times in that period.

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Wow! How do you guys get your chains to last so long? I went through a DID er2 and aftermarket chain a sprockets in 3 mounths, toast. Had to be adjusted alot. What chain do you recomend for racing/practicing motocross?

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Wow! How do you guys get your chains to last so long? I went through a DID er2 and aftermarket chain a sprockets in 3 mounths, toast. Had to be adjusted alot. What chain do you recomend for racing/practicing motocross?

Look at Gray's post right above yours.

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I used the stocker on an 07 for about a month and had to tighten it every ride , I bought a D.I.D gold and its a little better, should have bought an 0-ring chain! I hear the X-ring is the shizzle

:thumbsup::eek:

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i got 10 months out of my stocker.. riding track 4 times a month, and desert a few times as well. i replaced with a did. ert2 and it has been excellent.. im also using my stock sprockets as well as they had none to little wear. i was very suprised when i pulled it off. mind you i do clean and lube chain everyride.. however i did have to adjust the thing every single ride..

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So most of you are saying to go with a Regina O-ring chain? Most people Ive talked to said not to run an Oring on a motocross race bike. Some have said that Orings are the way to go, but they ride mostly harescrambles. I am considering an o-ring, exspesially since most of my chain lube tends to fly off after a few mins of a ride. Does an Oring negativley affect performance in any way or is it superior to a non oring chain? What about an x-ring, or T-ring?:thumbsup:

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All the "sealed chains" (o-ring, t-ring, x-ring, etc) made these days have little to no effect on power. They are an excellent, long-lasting drive chain.

Factory bikes seldom use them for a couple of reasons:

1)weight - a sealed chain is a little heavier than a non-sealed chain

2)cost - factory mechanics can afford (and have the budget to) throw away the chains they use after almost every race.

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X, T, and Z rings are seals in which the cross section resembles those letters instead of a simple round section O-ring. The seals thus have lips on them which is intended to improve sealing and reduce drag. It may do both. Or not.

Either way, an O-ring chain has no real effect on performance. At any one moment on any chain, only the 4 pins at the points where the chain is either rolling onto or off of the sprockets are rotating, and only the two at the front are rotating as far as 10-15 degrees. That means that only the friction of 8 O-rings is creating any drag at all. No one has ever done a truly scientific dyno comparison that I'm aware of that measured any difference between the two. As for weight, the Regina ORN6 is 3 ounces heavier per hundred links than their premium RX3 non-sealed race chain. All of this is outweighed by the more efficient operation of a chain running at the right dimension for a longer portion of its life.

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Alright, Im going to give the Regina Orn 6 a try. ?How often to you have to lube a sealed chain?:thumbsup:

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Lubing a sealed chain is only done for the benefit of the sprockets, the outer rollers, and the exposed surfaces of the seals. I use Maxima Synthetic Chain Guard because it stays in place well, has very little tackiness, so it picks up very little dirt, and washes off with Simple Green and a garden hose when I clean the bike. I lube the chain after each wash, at least 8 hours prior to riding it.

DO NOT use a chain lube that dries sticky, as this will pick up too much dirt, and possibly damage the seals.

DO NOT clean the chain with a pressure washer unless you spray straight in at the side plates from 18" away. Pressure washers can easily drive water under the seals and force the lubricant out.

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You will be glad you changed to an Oring chain.

It never fails to astound me just how long my chains and sprockets keep their original condition without even needing adjustment.

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The stock chain is junk - anything is better - I use DID ERT2 with ironman SS sprockets. These last me 1-2years.

Even though I am not a fan of oring x y or z ring chains on MX bikes, Sidewinder is proposing there oring adds 3 hp and they offer a Ti sprocket with a lifetime warranty

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...Sidewinder is proposing there oring adds 3 hp ...
They are going to have to prove that. The assumption that implies is that a rear chain of any kind actually absorbs 3 HP. Think about it. Your lawnmower engine barely has enough power to rotate the final drive set on your bike? If a chain absorbs power, it would do so through friction, which would convert it to heat. Converting 3 HP to heat would produce 127 BTU per minute. That is enough heat to raise the temperature of a pound of water 127 degrees. Chains do warm up a bit, but none of my worst ones have ever gotten anything like that hot. I'm going to have to call BS on that one.

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They are going to have to prove that. The assumption that implies is that a rear chain of any kind actually absorbs 3 HP. Think about it. Your lawnmower engine barely has enough power to rotate the final drive set on your bike? If a chain absorbs power, it would do so through friction, which would convert it to heat. Converting 3 HP to heat would produce 127 BTU per minute. That is enough heat to raise the temperature of a pound of water 127 degrees. Chains do warm up a bit, but none of my worst ones have ever gotten anything like that hot. I'm going to have to call BS on that one.

I hear ya Grey I am in agreement with you - just passing on info they publish on their ads.....but if we are wrong, that is cheap way to gain hp:excuseme:

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Stock chain is junk, had to tighten every ride, O-ring chain is the way to go, change it to O-ring before the stock damages your sproket

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