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riding4life162

Which one is the intake and exhaust valves

14 posts in this topic

The front two are the exhaust , and the rear two are the intake. when you are at compression TDC, all lobes will be pointing downward at a slight angle. Dont let it move from tdc. It could activate the auto decompressor and give you false measurements on the exhaust.

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TDC is where the line next to the "T" is aligned with the marks on the timing hole? And you would measure right below the bottom arm correct?

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TDC is where the line next to the "T" is aligned with the marks on the timing hole? And you would measure right below the bottom arm correct?

Yes. Measure between the valve stem and the adjuster tip on the rocker.

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riding4life162,

What part of Cali are you in? You oughtta try to make it out to the ThumperTalk Campout, Barbeque, and Drinking Fest the first weekend in April.

There is guaranteed to be a wealth of information about 600Rs, 650Ls, and 650Rs, as well as plenty of examples of bikes ranging from stock to modded.

There's gonna be camping, riding, alcohol induced campfire pyros and everyone is encouraged to collect assorted roadkill for the pot luck.

Word has it that a certain member cough, cough Denn10 cough, cough is raffling tickets for private lap dances in his trailer, but I ain't heard of any takers yet. :thumbsup:

It's guaranteed to be a good time.

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Wanna buy a ticket there LIFE??? MUAHHAHAHAHAH MUAAAAHAHAHAHAHA

all jokes aside WELCOME TO TT brother!!!!!! Adjusting valves is not that hard Martinfool30 will guide you as i havent done mine before, just other bikes so i dont wanna give misinformation to ya.

Pink shows my complection better so go pound sand foolio!!!

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A set of offset feeler gages is handy since the valvetrain sits down below the access caps, but with some practice you can learn the right feel with straight gages.

I hate using feeler gages in general, so if I have space for a drop indicator and magnetic base, I use that instead.

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I hate using feeler gages in general, so if I have space for a drop indicator and magnetic base, I use that instead.

You use a drop indicator to check the valves? That's the shit, I have new found respect for you. :thumbsup:

Whadda ya do, use the bottom of the lobe as your reference point and measure down to the top of the valve stem? Is there enough room through the inspection port to pull that off?

I see a new tool in my future.

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A set of offset feeler gages is handy since the valvetrain sits down below the access caps, but with some practice you can learn the right feel with straight gages.

I hate using feeler gages in general, so if I have space for a drop indicator and magnetic base, I use that instead.

HT thats a great idea. I will try that on my next V.ADJ. with the mag based dial indicator I have. That would be a much more accurate measurement. I would think just setting the pointer on the top of the adjusting screw would be good.

Its hard sometimes to get a good feel with feeler guages sometimes because it doesnt take much to slip in a too large of a guage in there and slightly compress the valve spring.

:thumbsup: HT

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You use a drop indicator to check the valves? That's the shit, I have new found respect for you. :eek:

Whadda ya do, use the bottom of the lobe as your reference point and measure down to the top of the valve stem? Is there enough room through the inspection port to pull that off?

I see a new tool in my future.

Thanks, I didn't expect to impress anyone. :D

I just make sure the valve I'm checking is on the base circle of the cam. Then I set up the drop indicator over the rocker tip(on the adjuster). All you have to do then is move the rocker up and down to check the total clearance and adjust as necessary.

I have to pull the tank in order to get enough space for the indicator and base, but that's 5 minutes well spent IMO.

One of my favorites is Mitutoyo for inspection equipment. They're not cheap, but they are definitely good. :thumbsup:

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The problem I kept having is when I got it to the right measurement (.005 intake and .006 exhaust ) when i tightened the locking nut using the screw driver to keep the screw in its spot it still would tighten and throw off all m measurements.

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The problem I kept having is when I got it to the right measurement (.005 intake and .006 exhaust ) when i tightened the locking nut using the screw driver to keep the screw in its spot it still would tighten and throw off all m measurements.

That's been a common problem in my experience on several different bikes. Just compensate for it by going a little loose before tightening. You'll eventually get the feel for what works best.

Make sure there's no gunk or debris of any kind on the threads also. I usually shoot a short burst of CLP on the adjusting nut and work it a bit if I notice it drags when I first loosen it.

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