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levy1

lowered footpegs

11 posts in this topic

I am changing my bikes setup. I am 6ft. 1 in. I will be installing a Scotts dampener and so far it looks like the Applied triple clamps, 12mm forward and protaper KX high bars with 10mm risers. Now I am wondering about lowered foot pegs. My toes point down and not level. I had to lower the shift lever position so I would not have to raise my foot to hit second and above. I need to raise my handlebars 2 inches in height. What would lowering the foot pegs do for me? Will this straighten out my foot at a better angle to shift? My inseam is 34 inches so I am guessing I would be more comfortable with a lower peg but I might loose a ½ inch I am trying to gain standing up. A few people have suggested to never lower foot pegs because of clearance.

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The lowered footpegs are an easy mod, as long as you have a hacksaw or such... They will move the pegs down and back 1/2 inch each way, you will notice the difference... many tall riders have done this mod with good results...

As for clearance, the WR has plenty, moving the pegs down a bit isn't going to make them to lowest point on the bike... unless you are doing supermotard, it won't be an issue...

If you need the directions to do the mod, reply here or PM me...

Cheers,

David

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ya it makes a big difference. i am 6,2 and did ti along with the 10mm+ risers and cr double high bars.

parx

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Being 6'1" myself, I too have similar problem w/ the shifter. Except I when I jump, I end up knocking it into a higher gear by accident. Would lowering the pegs help me too, or is this more a function of technique? I haven't raised my bars yet either though.

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Parx 400. What is the height of your cr double high in inches? how high is 10mm in inches? How did you like the change?

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I'm 6'3" and found the Guts tall seat one of the best mods to creat more room from seat to peg. You will gain 1 - 1 1/2 inches as compared to 10mm. just my 2 cents. I also did the top clamp and bar change -- Also another big improvement.

Pete

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x2smakoer, here they are:

1. Remove the pins from the pegs and take the pegs of the bike.

2. Cut the barrel part (that the pin slides through) off the bottom of the actual peg with a hacksaw or such.

3. Put the pegs back on, but with two changes. First, put the barrel part on the top of the peg when you re-install it, thus moving the pegs down and back on the existing mounts - and two. swap the springs from left to right to fit this new arrangement.

Now some people weld the barrel part back to the peg, others say it makes no difference.

Some clean the pegs and spray them up nicely before putting them back on.

You would be advised to put a bit of waterproof grease on the pin as you reassemble.

Not much to it really, just cut the barrel part off the peg neatly.

HTH

David

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It is an easy mod if you have access to a bandsaw (my preference) and a welder. I got the idea and instructions off an Australian website long ago. Might be able to come up with it if you need them...

I noticed the difference in "roominess", but no clearance problems. You end up with the pegs swapped side-to-side and @ 1/2" to 1" lower and farther back. Doesn't sound like much, but like your shorter kickstarter, it makes a difference.

If you have some down-time over the winter, Levy, you can send them to me to be done if you don't have access to the equipment. Doesn't take long. Working up the courage to do the initial cut was the hardest part... :)

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Lowered footpegs are a must do for tall riders. Be sure to reweld the barrel as suggested by others. What makes an even bigger difference are taller bars/scotts triple and a tall guts foam seat which you are doing...

I did all these mods earlier this year and they make the bike totally different. I am now able to stand up most of the time and be mostly comfortable and I'm 6.3 with a 34" inseam. The foam and the footpeg mod make riding far less tiring as well as it is far easier to move from a seated position to a standing one.

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