cam chain ten. install HELP

Please offer any tips on install.

The spring may lead one to drink

Yes it will!:smirk:

If its anything like an L's spring, i would just compress the spring, tie it with bailing wire or cable tie. Then when in place just snip the tie/wire.

Thats IF its the same type of setup.

Yes it will!:smirk:

If its anything like an L's spring, i would just compress the spring, tie it with bailing wire or cable tie. Then when in place just snip the tie/wire.

Thats IF its the same type of setup.

LoL..Sounds easy..Hardest bit is getting something into the CamChain cavity so you can cut the plastic cable tie.You need something like a Scalpel or a really small coping saw blade..Even then it can be a problem to get it out.Needs a bit of wobbling of the adjuster.

I use my curved scissors that were made for trimming lexan RC car bodies. Thin, long and curved just right!

HMMM.... Sounds like the perfect woman!

Sounds good..Must get some.I've done it with the coping saw blade but theirs so little room it's a pain in the butt..Lots of small wobbly strokes is about all you can achieve while grimacing at the awkwardness of the whole thing..

Do you think fishing line 20lb test maybe?around and conected to top bent part of sping ,it should be easy to cut up there and pull out don't ya think ?

Now if I can tie it up.

This is nuts most honda parts are designed better ,maybe it was a monday ?

1993 650L

Cable tie would be better..Fishing line is to slippery and won't stay in position.Whip down to the local electrical store and get a few of the smallish ones.They work fine but as I say the issue is getting something in to cut them when you have the Tensioner in position.So the basics of the operation go like this.Put the Tensioner in the vice.Get your cable tie and put it over the spring and Tension Arm with the locking part of the cable tie facing to the right hand side of the cavity ..wont fit the other way anyway(locking mechanism gets in the way)..Crank that tie in and sort of push it down the spring/Tensioner...they slip off easy so be careful..keep cranking till it looks as though its a good fit for the slot..Drop it in..put the holding pin etc in...cut the tie..It takes a bit to get it out..Pulling with pliers and wobbling of the Tensioner normally releases it.

Actually probably better not to put the main Holding shaft in before you get the tie out..allows for more leeway of movement to get the tie out..You will need to pull that spring in a fair way to get it to fit correctly in position.

If all else fails, you could always buy one of those them thar Cham Chain Tensioner tools from the dealer....:smirk:

If you have the right side crankcase cover off it's easy. Just hold the chain guide back. It's as simple as just pushing it over and holding it. My fingers are marginally strong enough. A big screwdriver or something else makes it even easier.

Just did mine yesterday, I used solid copper thermostat wire (18ga?) and put a drill bit that fit snugly in the holder hole, then compressed (wound) the spring tight and wrapped the wire around the drill bit to hold it. Once I had it installed I unwound it and pulled it out DONT DROP THE DRILL BIT INTO THE CASE. Also to hold it untentioned while I set the timing I used a strip of metal between the head and the tentioner with a hole the size of the drill bit and the drill bit in the hole. Sorry Im not very gifted at verbal explanationsbtu I hope this helps!

Thanks all

I have completed install using zip ty method all's well .

New cam, carb,pipe and muffler .

I will report on performance and how comparable it is to R model .

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