which weight

I know the topic of oil has gotten old, so this is not about brand, but weight. I got my new 08 today and the dealer recommended 20-50 weight, the manual does not recommend that weight for the U.S. What gives and why.

I know the topic of oil has gotten old, so this is not about brand, but weight. I got my new 08 today and the dealer recommended 20-50 weight, the manual does not recommend that weight for the U.S. What gives and why.

use the 10/40 and be done with it.

i use 20-50 for the summers. and 10-40 for the winter months.. so either weight will work fine.

What's up is marketing. The chart for the U.S./Canada shows only the 3 weights that Yamalube 4 and 4R are available in, and that's it. The engine doesn't know the difference between being here or in Belgium, so the same temperature range would apply to an SAE 20w-50 in either place.

I use 10w-40 more than 90% of the time around SoCal, but I do like to bump it up to 20w-50 in August if it stays hot enough.

Am I okay with the yamalube, I always change after a race, to change brands I would have to order from internet or buy whatever wal mart sells. I want to use whatever gives the best protection.

I want to use whatever gives the best protection.
That isn't Yamalube, quite frankly. You're paying a premium for something you aren't getting.

Grayracer, this is meant with the utmost respect, if not yamalube can you give me a coupe of options, and as far as break I am suppose to sue regular oil for break in not synthetic?

Whos do you suggest then Gray?

okay grammer sucks, couple of options and use regular motor oil,

shell rotella T 15w-40, amsoil 10w-40, maxima extra 15w-50, torco oil t4-mxr 15w-40. For easy to get at walmart shell rotella t 15w-40. Lots of guys on here swear by it. For best protection either the amsoil or maxima full synthetics. I've used the torco and maxima oil and they both do very well in used oil analysis. I'm sure amsoil is the same.

if you become a perfered member to amsoil you can get dealership prices.. if you do a bit of searching there are about 15 diffrent oil threads with some great info about oils..

grey is pretty much the master of knowledge in the area, so i take what he has to say, with great respect..

josh

I use Amsoil MCF. Other top level performers are Mobil1 Racing 4T, Maxima Ultra, Golden Spectro 4, Motul 300, and others. I don't recommend Rotella (even though it's very popular here) because it doesn't have the shear stability to be used longer than one ride day without changing.

Amsoil can be bought at a local brick-and-mortar dealer for the same kind of high prices the other oil above sell for, or ordered as a preferred customer for a net cost of just under $8/qt, delivered.

When the moving parts of healthy engine are properly worn in with each other, they will almost run with no oil because they're so well matched to each other. It takes very little lubrication to keep them out of trouble. This is not true of a brand new engine. In that case, the engine needs the best lubrication it can have, so why would you deliberately use less? I use the same Amsoil synthetic to break in my new engines as I run the rest of the time (I actually drain the factory oil on a new bike before the first ride). I have not ever had an engine fail to seat the rings, or have any other short or long term problem as a result.

The list of high end performance cars that come factory filled with synthetic oil and require their use from day one is a long one, too.

More:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2685432#post2685432

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

I run Redline 10-40 here in Phoenix. --RR

No clutch issues with the redline 10w-40? I thought about using it but it has a jaso rating of mb which I understood could cause clutch issues. I'd try it if I was sure that the clutch wouldn't be an issue.

JASO MB is not intended for use in wet clutch applications, and should not be used. It is not a certainty that it will cause clutch slippage, but MB oils are "friction modified", and like API "Energy Conserving II" oils, they can cause trouble.

JASO MB is not intended for use in wet clutch applications, and should not be used. It is not a certainty that it will cause clutch slippage, but MB oils are "friction modified", and like API "Energy Conserving II" oils, they can cause trouble.

I hadn't experienced any clutch problems but your comments inspired me to do some research and yep, MA is specifically designed for wet clutch applications. I just dumped my redline and replaced with Mobil1 Racing 4T in preparation for tomorrows ride. Thanks for the heads-up rickallen and the great advice Gray. --RR

Sweet! An oil thread. :smirk:

I use 15W40 all year (well, most of the year, I don't ride much in the winter months, the weather is too crappy). Temps range from 100 degrees to 40 degrees and I've had zero problems.

Sweet! An oil thread. :smirk:

Don'cha love 'em? :)

Don'cha love 'em? :smirk:

Yep, but I always enjoy a good "glowing header" thread too. :)

I use Amsoil MCF. Other top level performers are Mobil1 Racing 4T, Maxima Ultra, Golden Spectro 4, Motul 300, and others. I don't recommend Rotella (even though it's very popular here) because it doesn't have the shear stability to be used longer than one ride day without changing.

Amsoil can be bought at a local brick-and-mortar dealer for the same kind of high prices the other oil above sell for, or ordered as a preferred customer for a net cost of just under $8/qt, delivered.

When the moving parts of healthy engine are properly worn in with each other, they will almost run with no oil because they're so well matched to each other. It takes very little lubrication to keep them out of trouble. This is not true of a brand new engine. In that case, the engine needs the best lubrication it can have, so why would you deliberately use less? I use the same Amsoil synthetic to break in my new engines as I run the rest of the time (I actually drain the factory oil on a new bike before the first ride). I have not ever had an engine fail to seat the rings, or have any other short or long term problem as a result.

The list of high end performance cars that come factory filled with synthetic oil and require their use from day one is a long one, too.

More:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2685432#post2685432

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf[/quote Gray, Have you heard or read anything concerning Torco T-4 or Torco MX-t??? I know we just got a few barrels of this stuff at the shop in 10-40 to go along with the 20-50 Spectro we have been using.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now